New bright white Audi...How do I...

[MIGOLFERGIRL]

HI Geeks!

New to the forum, and have been busy reading and reading....

I have a brand new snow-white Audi (Ibis White) and want to know when, how, what, etc.

I have always heard that a factory paint job needs time to "cure" before you put a sealant and/or wax on it. True??

I have read about using sealants on white paint, and I love the idea of protecting the finish while providing a glossy look. But does putting a wax over the sealant (I live in the Pacific NW) work?

My car is garaged in a heated garage, and only parked outside a for a few hours a day out in the elements. That said, I had a bird dropping and some sap from some plant on the hood of my car. I washed it off, and was left with a purpley-blue stain. I tried without any luck to remove the stain, so I put a tiny dab of polishing compound on my finger and gently rubbed. The stain is mostly gone, but now I have a spot that isn't shiny and beautiful like the rest of my car. Have I ruined the clear coat??? I truly didn't rub it very hard.....

Also, do I need to "clay" this car before I apply sealant or wax? The finish feels incredibly smooth to me.

I obviously need some advice! Thank you all so much!!

[Don M]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Hi, welcome to AGO!

Great article posted above me worth reading written by Mike Phillips.

[MIGOLFERGIRL]

I've read and watched videos about the How To...

I guess my real questions are: is my paint cured and ready for some protection? Will "yellow wax" change the bright white of my paint? Would you use a good sealant, a good wax, both? What about the white wax I've read about??

Also, what about the stain on my hood? Do I need to go get a clear coat reapplied?? Have I ruined my beautiful paint job?

HELP!

[EVOlved]

No you didn't ruin the clear coat.

Yes the paint is cured by the factory so it is ready for some wax.

Do a http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html?highlight=Baggie+test and that will tell you if you should clay. I would either way myself.

For that spot if claying and washing don't do the trick. I would hand polish it with a MF applicator lightly or a MF towel. Assuming you don't have a DA. I would use something like Meguiars ultimate polish since it is easily available, cheap, and user friendly.

For wax or your LSP Collinite 845 always looks good on white and has great durability for the price. My favorite personally is Sonax PNS it beads water like no ones business and lasts a good 5-6 months. I actually have a garage queen that is still beading phenomenally on and it has been over 6 already.

Oh yeah almost forgot :welcome: to AG!!

[Bill1234]

Welcome to AG, What I would recommend is buy a dedicated stripper shampoo such as chemical guys or another brand. The dealer most likely put a crappy sealent on it to make it look good which is why it would feel a bit smoother. Strip what ever is on there, with a foam wash and then go to claying. Once that is done, check to see if polish work needs to be done. If not, apply an lsp

[refreshauto]

welcome to Autogeek. you have no ruined your car. take the time to read the article that was posted. if you can find a local detailer from here and have him help you out if need be. we are always willing to help one another out