Menzerna Power Lock Question

[L Gunnar D]

The Missus and I did our first "serious" paint detailing/correction over the past few days on a 2014 black Hyundai Tuscon. We are both late life, recent converts, newbie weekend warriors as it were, to the detailing obsession. We followed the steps we'd learned from reading up on this and other forums.

1. General wash with foam cannon and two-bucket method.
2. Clay.
3. 2nd wash w/Dawn.
4. 3-stage compound/polish with DA polisher and foam pads using Menzerna FG 400, SI 1500 and finally SF 4500. Paint looks a million times better compared to the "dealer installed swirls" that we didn't even know we had before reading about the phenomenon here.
5. Wipe down with 25% IPA. 2nd wipe down with CarPro Eraser.
6. Application of Menzerna Power Lock sealer with DA polisher and soft foam pad.

And here is the issue I've been leading up to: On the Power Lock directions it says "Allow to dry to a haze and remove residue with a microfiber towel". No time frame is mentioned so I figured just wait as long as it takes for it to haze up.

The sealant was easy to apply, like a somewhat oily paste. After 10 minutes, no haze. 20 minutes, no haze. 1 hour, no haze. 3, 4, 5, 6 hours, no haze. After 8 hours we decided to wipe it off and leave over night before applying a 2nd coat the next day (today, finished application about an hour ago, and, you guessed it; no haze). Temperature was ~70F and average humidity.

The removal was really easy, and the sealant, to my eyes and touch, was no different after 8 hours on the paint than when we put it on. The paint looks absolutely amazing, wet, gleaming and slick. But did it "take"? I.e. bond to the surface, as I understand it's supposed to, or did we just put on a coating that makes the paint look shiny, but will wash off in the first rain storm? I'm only asking (and I'm being wordy about it, I know) because of the complete lack of hazing and because this particular product seems to have a very good reputation (and because I'm worrisome by nature).

I'm completely confident that the prep work was good. Both my wife and I are quite anal about such things and if anything we were more meticulous than needed. We had also done several minor practice runs on my '05 Ford Explorer and a nasty old pickup truck we have. So if anybody in the know is still with me, your comments and suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
LGD

PS Not sure if this is the correct forum. Move as needed.

[Kamakaz1961]

You should be fine!! I use Powerlock and just wait till I can remove the sealant from the finger test. I just swipe the panel with my finger and if it comes off easy I know it is ready.

As for being oily...I have not experienced that. But based on my experience...you should be fine and my guess nothing will be removed from the outside forces. Maybe shake the bottle more next time.

Your technique seems sound. I use FG400 and then SF4500 (the jeweling polish) and then Powerlock. IMO one of the best polishing company.

[greatwhitenorth]

When applied thin (I use LC red foam) I can go around the vehicle applying PL and by the time I get back to where I started and grab a clean microfiber it's more than ready to be removed. Love how easy this stuff goes on and off!
If it's streaking or smearing it's not ready to come off and you more than likely have it too thick

[DaveT435]

The Missus and I did our first "serious" paint detailing/correction over the past few days on a 2014 black Hyundai Tuscon. We are both late life, recent converts, newbie weekend warriors as it were, to the detailing obsession. We followed the steps we'd learned from reading up on this and other forums.

1. General wash with foam cannon and two-bucket method.
2. Clay.
3. 2nd wash w/Dawn.
4. 3-stage compound/polish with DA polisher and foam pads using Menzerna FG 400, SI 1500 and finally SF 4500. Paint looks a million times better compared to the "dealer installed swirls" that we didn't even know we had before reading about the phenomenon here.
5. Wipe down with 25% IPA. 2nd wipe down with CarPro Eraser.
6. Application of Menzerna Power Lock sealer with DA polisher and soft foam pad.

And here is the issue I've been leading up to: On the Power Lock directions it says "Allow to dry to a haze and remove residue with a microfiber towel". No time frame is mentioned so I figured just wait as long as it takes for it to haze up.

The sealant was easy to apply, like a somewhat oily paste. After 10 minutes, no haze. 20 minutes, no haze. 1 hour, no haze. 3, 4, 5, 6 hours, no haze. After 8 hours we decided to wipe it off and leave over night before applying a 2nd coat the next day (today, finished application about an hour ago, and, you guessed it; no haze). Temperature was ~70F and average humidity.

The removal was really easy, and the sealant, to my eyes and touch, was no different after 8 hours on the paint than when we put it on. The paint looks absolutely amazing, wet, gleaming and slick. But did it "take"? I.e. bond to the surface, as I understand it's supposed to, or did we just put on a coating that makes the paint look shiny, but will wash off in the first rain storm? I'm only asking (and I'm being wordy about it, I know) because of the complete lack of hazing and because this particular product seems to have a very good reputation (and because I'm worrisome by nature).

I'm completely confident that the prep work was good. Both my wife and I are quite anal about such things and if anything we were more meticulous than needed. We had also done several minor practice runs on my '05 Ford Explorer and a nasty old pickup truck we have. So if anybody in the know is still with me, your comments and suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
LGD

PS Not sure if this is the correct forum. Move as needed.

I've only used it once, but it sounds like you may have put it on thicker than required. Most of these products go on thin, thin. "Less is more"

[L Gunnar D]

Thanks guys. I think I may have problems with the term "haze" as in the last time I waxed a car 15 years ago. I was expecting a completely dry surface that required some elbow grease to remove with accompanying dust clouds. The MPL did indeed come off effortlessly with negligible dust. It was so easy it seemed to good to be true.

[Mizzoutiger]

I use/love Menzerna PL. Just use "swipe test" to determine when ready to remove (usually 30-45 mins depending on temp/humidity) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Um1lHGq5vA

[Rsurfer]

If it didn't haze, it appears that you did not shake it well enough. Try shaking the hell out of it and do a small test area. Sometimes it will separate and takes awhile to blend together. Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant will also tend to separate.

[KenR]

Sounds excellent. Power Lock is my preference also. But to pick up on something Kamikaz1961 mentioned, if you use FG400 then using SI1000 might be over doing it. The FG400 should finish down nicely. Then the FG4500 (or 4000) should take care of anything leftover and really bring out the clarity of the paint. Just my thought on the subject. But, of course, YMMV.

I usually wait 10-15 minutes before wiping the car down after applying PowerLock.

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