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kdubski
09-17-2014, 06:42 PM
Whatsup AG,
Today I decided to overhaul my seriously neglected daily driver. It's a 2006 subaru impreza and it doubles as my work car. I've used this thing on construction sites, when I auto X'd (youtube this), and its even been in a few fender benders (none my fault). NOT TO MENTION, this car was purchased salvaged. I detailed it in 2010 when I got it, and it was in nearly mint condition, but through the years its taken a toll, I'm sure you can imagine.
So both bumpers need to be painted, and there are rock chips littering the hood and doors, but I decided it needs a 2 step paint correction and paintless dent removal to get it into acceptable condition.

The reason I really took to this job is so I can practice and master my rotary skills on my new rotary buffer. I always do paint correction with my porter cable and meguiars microfiber correction kit but I wanted a quicker and more efficient way. Well compounding with a rotary is great since it corrects on 1 pass but it leaves TONS of swirls/marring. I used LC 5" orange w/m105. Some compound dried so hard I needed alcohol to remove it.
After I followed with m205 on LC white 5" pad. It dried on my paint in a hazy way. Never had it happen like this on cars when I do them for money. I think because my paint is extremely neglected and dry it might have absorbed the oils?

When I checked it in the afternoon sun, it looked like dried paste/swirls left from improper washing (in that arcing pattern if you can imagine). Did the compound not remove enough swirls?

Also, tons of very microfine circular swirls remain, not sure if its just marring. I left the car the way it was because I had class, but I'm going to fix it in the a.m.


Here are some pics:

Before
http://i59.tinypic.com/zoia09.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/1262zwn.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/153xxtt.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2ba1du.jpg



Anyone have any explanation or advice on how to refine this process for a more efficient finish?

sweatthedetails
09-17-2014, 07:04 PM
There are maybe a hand full of guys in the US that can finish out a polish hologram free with a Rotory. More than likely your not one, dont feel bad im not either. You can conpound with the rotory but you should finish with you DA.

kdubski
09-17-2014, 07:16 PM
Sorry for being unclear, but I finished with m205 on white 5" LC pad using my porter cable DA. That's why I'm a little stunned at the results.

sweatthedetails
09-18-2014, 01:29 AM
I would hit it with the compound again, may not of leveled it enough.



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I may be slow, but I do poor work.

Mike@DedicatedPerfection
09-18-2014, 01:48 AM
Which machine did you pick up?

Looks like you achieved decent results but as you said, you need to spend more time behind the Rotary. Please be careful with this machine as it can get you into trouble in a hurry. If you can, grab a junk panel to practice on.

Do you have any experience with DAT products? This is geared for DAT based polishes such as Menzerna. It will not work for Meguiar's SMAT products. Below is a few articles I wrote that should provide a good foundation.

If you decide to go at the Subaru again, first start off with SF4000 on a white pad and check the results.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/77155-my-technique-concerning-3401-menzerna-products-hybrid-pads.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/80973-utilizing-smack-technique-pe14.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/flex-polishers/81208-flex-comparision-pe14-vs-3401-a.html

Kitoy22
09-18-2014, 08:25 PM
Using a rotary polisher, takes time to master. But what others have said, practice first on a panel, varying on your techniques like arm speed, ensuring pad is flat on the panel, priming the pad etc, take note also of the compound you're using, like 105 which is a SMAT, you don't need to break this down, it has a short working time, but if it starts to dry just spray the panel with distilled water and it will be reactivated again. If you work longer on 105, it will tend to clump and it will leave an undesirable finish, but spraying it with water addresses this concern on SMAT compounds.
Hope this helps.

allenk4
01-02-2015, 11:57 PM
How is your development curve progressing with the Rotary?

Are you still using foam on a Rotary to compound? In my limited time with a Rotary; I found foam much scarier than wool

kdubski
01-03-2015, 10:24 PM
How is your development curve progressing with the Rotary?

Are you still using foam on a Rotary to compound? In my limited time with a Rotary; I found foam much scarier than wool

I opted against the rotary, however, I found that you need to use the perfect amount of compound/polish. If I used too little, the buffer would hop, and if too much, it would splatter. The learning curve is great, but I haven't had the time to put into it because of school, so little progress was made. I hope to be fluent with the rotary by the beginning of summer 2015.