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SlackNo-d3tail
09-08-2014, 08:30 PM
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30129First Major Correction Attempt (FMCA)…Advice Help?
Hx: I been “detailing” cars for years right yet once I started reading forums and watching videos I discovered (like many others…misery needs company) why the sheet metal was not popping on the 2 yrs in the family 996 Carrera or the 7 years with us Toyota SUV…both dark colors. As well …I was contributing to it with using sub-par techniques and materials to clean…polish and “detail”. I commited to studying videos and forums and purchased the PC xp(Quick note about PC…do they sound different after a few hours of use? Getting warm is normal? I used 14G extension. Is changing speeds while working an area a problem?) and kit and decided to start with the black Toyota truck(poor abused oxidized…swirled up baby finally getting some love) for practice. Here is what I learned ; discovered so any advice or comments appreciated…
1. Prep the area for space…in garage…well lit/vented…supplies…power supplies…safety.
2. Plan an early start…I’m slow anyway but 2 hours/6 sections on a hood seemed about right using 2-3 steps cause its labor intensive. I got the Wolfgang 3.0 Twins with Orange and black paids as well as white using both 6.5 and 5.5 inch pads. Along the research I got couple other product sets…105/205 from MeQ and some Ultimate HyperPolish…I learned the difference between 1-step and 2-step products. Products really secondary to technique but they can all behave differently. Don’t fuss but truck had some bird etchings and I used some Meg85 with a orange pad with minimal improvement.
3. Finding the right pressure started with a bathroom scale( Junk’ video) was easy to duplicate on flat surfaces…vertical is another story.
4. Pads and Rags. I started doing an inventory of my rags I had been using for wash-dry-polish and they were not passing the test for “plushness” that I had learned from the Junkman. They were made in China but I also had a few that passed (I had somehow had some blue and grey 70/30 blends..quite nice).
Actually some of the fancy ones(Mequires Gold…Cobra Gold …the blue and orange edgeless are gr8 but gotta keep turning them.) I’ve since purchased based on “new knowledge” aren’t so “plush”. I learned that with any product you have to evaluate the effect on the paint and process as you go…make adjustments in product amount…cleaning and Keeping buildup off the pads and rags helps with the process of polishing and cleaning paint.
The dimple pads and raised soft edge pads did well as I also learned from the videos to prime…clean as you go…and preserve. The “hex-logics” are “wow”; they get hot and one had the backing come off. I hope they send me a replacement.
5. So after 16 hours to do the black truck…10 to do the white car(slower than it sounds cause its hard to see o n the white. I also experimented with the 105/205 combo two step and the one-step ultimate HyperPolish. Humidity effects the way sometimes the compounds dry slower or “diminish” . Well here are some pics so bash at will….See the taping job on white car
6.

I edited these pictures as much as MSF allowed
Sorry they are first and not last

jamesboyy
09-08-2014, 09:11 PM
Welcome to autogeek.....sounds like you had an journey thought Now you have learned from your flaws, and hopefully wont do them again remember thought you don't have to correct a whole paintwork in a day you can break it down into a week or how over long project, if something cant remove don't keep trying to remove it move on before you burn the paint, and when primeing
the pad its best to draw a circle on the pad the add a half of circle to reduce pad dampness,etc

few links to check out if not already

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/questions-about-porter-cable-7424xp-7424-7336-griot-s-meguiar-s-dual-action-polishers/38399-da-polisher-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/26962-how-much-product-do-i-use-my-da-polisher.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/24074-show-car-garage-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-polishing-da-polisher.html

SlackNo-d3tail
09-09-2014, 07:49 PM
"the pad its best to draw a circle on the pad the add a half of circle to reduce pad dampness,etc "

Thx for comments. This next project I will break it up over a few days.Feed back please?
Could you comment on the above statement however a little more on priming? Is this saying add 1 full circle plus a half of product to prime
Or
Prime with a full circle then at some point only use half a circle so pad won't be so damp. Is this for adding as sections are being done? The pad will accumulate product (even with using "clean as I go" technique?)won't it? It alway seemed like I wasn't using enough at times. I also will be less aggressive and not over do it...Thx
here i a gr8 thing I discovered while looking for newspaper to do wht I feel is one of the most important steps...Prep Work. the AutoGeek Packing paper makes a wonderful roll of protection paper! WOW!

SlackNo-d3tail
09-09-2014, 09:55 PM
I'm posting pictures of the paint Im embarking on and if anyone can see does this seem " moderate" and should I look at my two steps of either A.Wolfgang 3.0 swirl remove/finish glaze twins...B.Mequiars 105/205 ...or would C.Ultimate Hyperpolish One-step. Which ever I will follow with good wax like Meq. I really want to splurge but $75 plus on wax. Is it really worth it? Any suggestions on a good high end wax with low end entrance fee
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Garyhw48
09-10-2014, 12:34 AM
You can't go wrong with the Wolfgang twins and if you want to follow up with a lower priced finish product try Meguiar's GoldClass Carnauba Plus or Meguiar's Ultimate Synthetic Polymer Liquid Wax. I have use all of them and get excellent results. When you are finished the paint will look like a mirror.

SlackNo-d3tail
09-10-2014, 04:18 PM
Anybody got any tips about wipe up after a section pass while using either a compound polish or finishing glaze.
. At first I would wipe circles and then I noticed on video the king taking one pass in one direction then reverse. Turn rag. I seem to pick up either little pieces of product and depending on its state I may make "scratches" which require some elbow grease to remove. Sometimes even the towel dragging will leave "smudges" which may be a better name. I have never seen anyone address this. I use quality towels. Does humidity seem to increase or decrease this. I tried a different product...same result.

Also what about the clear bra. All my info says to "treat it like paint". I don't think that always works.
It appears cloudy and requires either to use cleaner wax or mild glaze and "don't let it dry". I have to wipe very quickly. These pieces are turning out to be a project of their own. Is there a product made just for the clear bra? It must be and I'm not using it...help!

Garyhw48
09-11-2014, 12:13 AM
I can't comment on the bra but if the product your using is drying try a quick detailer to wet it then it should wipe off with no trouble. The links that jamesboyy posted for you should help you get the hang of using the DA pads and putting the product on. If you watch Mike Phillips videos on the PC you can't miss. Take the time and watch as many as you can, he covers most everything. His videos have helped me a lot.

SlackNo-d3tail
09-13-2014, 03:53 AM
Always appreciate comments...Thx.
Watch some more vids and concentrated on priming pads better. The wetting with detailed is. I had read about the "like dissolves like". Would detailer satisfy the "like" criteria?