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no cigar
08-22-2014, 12:38 PM
Hey guys I put a 5.5" plate on my Harbor Freight polisher and get a lot of vibration. Should the weight have been replaced as well?

I had seen a couple of posts saying no, but I'm not so sure. Is there something I might have missed in the install? Thanks for the help!

Mike Phillips
08-22-2014, 01:12 PM
Did you ensure the compression washer was on the backing plate?


Don't use your polisher without it! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/48872-don-t-use-your-polisher-without.html)


That is... the Compression Washer
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1423/5inchbackingpatesonDAPs013.jpg


If you don't use a compression washer, the rivets on the backing plate attachment base will come into contact with the counterweight assembly on your DA Polisher.

Damage caused by not using the Compression Washer
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1423/DamagedCounterweight01.jpg


Damaged and Gouged Metal
The rivets have gouged the metal because the compression washer was left off. Not only does it gouge the metal it will usually make a horrible noise and that should be your first clue to turn the polisher off and inspect for issues.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1423/DamagedCounterweight02.jpg



Treat the compression washer like GOLD. Don't lose it.


Keep the little rubber nut to lock it into place when not using that backing plate. It's probably more likely you'll own more backing plates into the future than less likely.

The Rubber Nut - Keeps the Compression Washer from getting lost and protects the threads when the backing plate is not in use.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1423/5inchbackingpatesonDAPs012.jpg

I have scads of backing plates in drawer in the studio and it's nice reaching for a backing plate and having the spacer washer intact with the backing plate.



The Purpose of the Compression Washer

The compression washer performs multiple functions,


Crushable Interface
The compression washer provides a crushable or malleable interface between two pieces of metal that are going to see a lot of pressure from being tightened together with a wrench and my guess is a lot of punishment from the operator. I punish all my tools... so it's not a reach to think others are going to punish their's too. Add to the above mix, the violent oscillating action of the tool on the highest speed setting and add to that t-i-m-e...

By time, I mean putting your polisher to work buffing out a car section-by-section, panel-after-panel. As Pros know and anyone that wants to get the job in a decent amount of time, when you start buffing out a car you have to keep the tool running and buffing on paint. There's no breaks. That's time of endured punishment.

Point being is you want and need the crushable interface between two pieces of metal on an electric tool capable of running at high OPM's.


Spacer
They also act as an actual spacer between the arbor or stud seat where there are the raised heads of a type of rivet or brad that anchors the arbor base to the the backing plate and the threaded portion of the Free Rotating Spindle Bearing Assembly (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23995-free-floating-spindle-assembly-story-behind-story.html).


Free Rotating Spindle Bearing Assembly
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/794/FreeRotatingSpingleAssembley004.jpg



Here you can see a compression washer seated at the base or seat of the 5/16" arbor or stud where it's attached into the backing plate surrounded by the raised heads of the rivets or attachment anchors.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/804/5_0BackingPlates06.jpg



So keep track of both the compression washer and the rubber nut and don't use your DA Polisher, be it a Porter Cable, Meguiar's or Griot's without it.


Compression washers do wear out with use, that is if you remove and replace backing plates often you're going to wear your compression washer out.



Autogeek carries replacements...

Lake Country Compression Washers 5-Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/backing-plate-compression-washer.html)





:xyxthumbs:
__________________

Desertnate
08-22-2014, 01:13 PM
Which plate did you use? Did you make sure it wasn't warped after you attached it to the buffer?

I mounted a 5.5 Lake Country backing plate on my HF DA and it is smoother. The stock backing plate was a little warped, so mine actually became smoother operating when I put on the new plate. I did not swap out the weights.

allenk4
08-22-2014, 01:26 PM
Treat that little black nipple like gold

no cigar
08-22-2014, 02:51 PM
Hmm. I will have to check when I get home. Thanks!

no cigar
08-22-2014, 06:27 PM
Hey guys just looked at my setup... So I did have the washers on there. It looks like I had a thin one and a thick (twice the size of the thin) one at the same time. So I did have something there. After using one thin, there was no contact to the weight however it seemed to still have vibration. Should there be any at all or should it be smooth as glass?

Also I have an astro pneumatic 4607 backing plate.

Thanks!

allenk4
08-22-2014, 07:51 PM
I have not used a HF DA, but my older PC vibrates quite a bit more than a Griots, Megs or FLEX

Mike Phillips
08-25-2014, 06:46 AM
Should there be any at all or should it be smooth as glass?




Are you holding the tool in the air and then turning it on and then making your judgment about vibration?

Or

Are you putting a foam pad on the backing plate, placing the face of the pad with some type of product against a car body panel and then turning the tool on and making a judgment on vibration?


Point being, you're not supposed to hold the tool in the air and turn it on, that's not how you use the tool. I'm asking these questions because I've come across this vibration issue "question" dozens of time in my life in the forum world and often times the person asking the question is turning the tool on while holding the tool in the air only to be surprised by the amount of vibration in the tool.


Just a guess....


:)

no cigar
08-25-2014, 01:37 PM
Initially I was judging the vibration based on having it on the panel of the car while applying product. It seemed like the polisher was beating the he** out of the fender.

Mike Phillips
08-25-2014, 01:50 PM
Initially I was judging the vibration based on having it on the panel of the car while applying product. It seemed like the polisher was beating the he** out of the fender.


You want to apply product to the face of the pad then place the face of the pad against the paint and then turn the polisher on and the press down with some pressure to keep the pad from fluttering.

If you haven't already, take a moment to read this, it's actually something everyone should read BEFORE using a dual action polisher, not AFTER they run into trouble....


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html)


It's seriously not that hard....

Tyler, age 15 removing swirls using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1436/medium/1965Plymouth035.jpg




This video walks you step-by-step how to use a Porter Cable and the HF is a knock-off of the PC


How to Properly Use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher Updated! (http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-dvd.html)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/PorterCableDVD.jpg



:)

Mike Phillips
08-25-2014, 01:51 PM
Click this link,


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/49489-video-mark-your-backing-plate-make-easy-see-pad-rotation.html)



You'll want to mark your backing plate and watch the video...


:)