*2007 Black Shelby GT500*?

[*Shelby/GT500*]

Evening Mike//
I'm New to the Forums,But a 66/Year old guy,And would like to ask you about
the Factory Paint on my Black Shelby.

It has the Full White Stripe Package

I just recently bought this in February/2014. It has some Scratches/Light Scratches & Paint Chips. I have a Makita 9227 and an Cyclo Polisher.

I had and still have this Synthetic Compound from *Stoner Products* which has worked pretty good w/others vehicles I had. For the life of me,I cannot seem to get the light scratches out of the Paint let alone the bigger scratches and it's pretty sad.

I've worked w/Buffers [Circular] for several years w/Decent results on other cars we've had. But,This Shelby Paint [Clear Coat] wants to fight me/:(.


I bought the Stoner,Prior to buying the Shelby,as it's relatively cheap.


**I Want to Do a Much Better Job with the Paint, But I have no Clue on what to get for the Problem Areas.

Is this Shelby Paint & Clearcoat different and requires *Specialized Compounds and Waxes* to correct this?


These Issues were there when I bought it, But didn't see it 'til I got it home..

I would **Greatly Appreciate** your Expertise Recommedations on what I need to do or get to have it looking better than it does now.

Thank You for Your:Help/Info & Timely Response.

Have A Good Evening,Mike.
Best Regards//

Raymond

PS:The Wife & I are New Davenport/Florida Residents.

We've Been here for 2/Years.

[*Shelby/GT500*]

Evening//
Wow...No Responses.Thanx Anyways.
Regards//
Raymond

[FOCUS.FREAK]

How old is this said compound

-Jordan

[custmsprty]

I owuld suggest investing in some quality products.
Wolfgang Uber, WG Finishing Glaze and WG Sealant 3.0 would be a great 1-2-3 system. I use these very successfully on black paint. I use DA Polishers so can't comment on your machines. But considering the car you're working on maybe you want to invest in a mid priced da or one of ag kits.

Griot’s Garage Random Orbital Wolfgang Duo (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-wolfgang-kit.html)

My suggestion would be pick a system and stick with it.

[*Shelby/GT500*]

How old is this said compound

-Jordan

Morning Jordan//
I'm gonna say [Think] 4-5/Years Old.
I bought it so,Incase I'd need it in the
Future.Does keeping Compounds/Waxes
for a Few Years break it down? If so,I never
knew that.Thank You for your Response,Jordan/:xyxthumbs:.
Best Regards//
Raymond

[*Shelby/GT500*]

I owuld suggest investing in some quality products.
Wolfgang Uber, WG Finishing Glaze and WG Sealant 3.0 would be a great 1-2-3 system. I use these very successfully on black paint. I use DA Polishers so can't comment on your machines. But considering the car you're working on maybe you want to invest in a mid priced da or one of ag kits.

Griot’s Garage Random Orbital Wolfgang Duo (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-wolfgang-kit.html)


My suggestion would be pick a system and stick with it.
Evening custmsprty//
I *Thank You* for your Response & Advice/ :props:.. The Products [Componds/Glazeand Sealant] that you recommend, I'll get.
The DA/Polisher that you use, I'll have to get that later on. I want to Improve the Finish, But the Scratches,Although some are Light,
A few of the others are alittle deeper. The Black is Still Very Shiney & Deep, But I'd like it to raise above that, With the products you
recommended. Then, This way so when others and I look at it, and say it looks great. It will make me feel proud.
Thanx Again for the Help/Advice & Responding. Take Care.
Best Regards//
Raymond

[swanicyouth]

The compound / polish technology has changed substantially over the past 5 years. It's pretty safe to say - most polishes from 5 years ago are obsolete. Wax is wax - you can use any wax you choose on any paint.

Really the best tool you have to likely attack this car isn't the rotary - but the Cyclo. I'm hoping the Cyclo you have is a variable speed model - but you still should be able to get great results with today's polishes / compounds even if it's not.

Some people really love the Cyclo - and they last forever. If I was you - instead of investing a new machine, I'd learn to use the Cyclo to it's fullest potential.

I'd also invest in NEW pads, polishes, and compounds. I'd get Cyclo brand pads, and either Optimum or Wolfgang Polishes. Learning to use the machine in a manner that maximizes it to it's full potential should get you show car results.

[Mike Phillips]

Evening Mike//
I'm New to the Forums,But a 66/Year old guy,And would like to ask you about
the Factory Paint on my Black Shelby.



I'll do my best to answer your questions. In the last 14 years of answering questions on discussion forums the topic of removing swirls and scratches out of clearcoat black paint has come up one or two times...


Lets start here, the last part of your post....





Thank You for Your:Help/Info & Timely
Response.

Have A Good Evening,Mike.
Best Regards//

Raymond



Looks like you posted this at 7:30pmish on Thursday night. I get here at 7:00am and leave normally around 5:30pm, so I missed your first post. Sorry about that...

Normally I scan this forum group, (Ask the expert Mike Phillips), every morning when I arrive to work but I somehow missed your post on Friday. I'm happy to say in the last 5 years of working on the AGO forum missing a new thread doesn't happen very often.

I'm spending less time on the forums than normal as I'm writing a series of ebooks and there truly is no such thing as multitasking when it comes to thinking out words that I know in the future will be scrutinized and if accurate followed by someone in their garage.

The above all said, I apologize I didn't find your thread the next day after you posted it and as such did not post a reply in a timely manner. In fact it wasn't till someone sent me a message notifying me of your thread that I found it.

Now to your Mustang project,






It has the Full White Stripe Package

I just recently bought this in February/2014. It has some Scratches/Light Scratches
& Paint Chips. I have a Makita 9227 and an Cyclo Polisher.



The white stripe package, which is vinyl graphics will make working on the paint surrounding these vinyl graphics a pain in the butt the rest of the time you own this car. Best thing to do is to avoid buffing on them especially with your rotary buffer.







I had and still have this Synthetic Compound from *Stoner Products* which has worked pretty good w/others vehicles I had. For the life of me,I cannot seem to get the light scratches out of the Paint let alone the bigger scratches and it's pretty sad.



I've never used Stoner's compounds nor their cleaner/wax. I looked at their website and by the description of their products they offer

2 - Aggressive Compounds
1 - Polish/Wax which is a cleaner/wax.

I did not see a "dedicated polish" that would normally be used to follow up a compounding step in a multiple step process, not a cleaner/wax.

As mentioned in this thread, there's be some MAJOR changes in compounds and polishes in the last 7 or so years, I think it started with M86 by Meguiar's here in the U.S. followed by Optimum Polymer Technologies. Overseas Menzerna has always offered incredible compounds and polishes and lately, (the last 3 years or so), SONAX has introduced some amazing products.

If you were to read enough of my posts the terms I use are,

abrasive technology

Abrasive technology is the stuff in the bottles that "we" rub against the paint and it is the MOST important factor that will determine good results from bad results.

With good abrasive technology ANYONE can get professional results their first time buffing by machine which I've documented in the forum world for the last 14 years.

With bad abrasive technology it doesn't matter what pad, tool or technique you use... the results will be bad because the "stuff" touching the paint is bad to start with.

I have not used Stoner's compounds or cleaner/waxes but they are reputable company and their other products have a great reputation. The true test and the ONLY test in my book that matters is what product do when used on black paint.

Because AGO is the largest and most active detailing discussion forum in the world, we get a LOT of people new to car detailing in general and machine polishing in specific that come to this forum seeking help and advice and on the topic of choosing compounds and polishes here's what I say all the time,

Don't skimp on polishes

That means, don't go with the cheapest stuff, go with the best stuff. The reasons why are because,

A: You don't want to do the job twice. Buffing out a car from start to finish already takes a long time plus a lot of perspiration and patience.

B: FACTORY paint is thin, using bad abrasive technology in simple terms removes one set of paint defects and replaces it with a new set of paint defects.

See my article here and look at the pictures ans a picture can say a thousand words....

Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/74234-clearcoats-scratch-sensitive.html)







I've worked w/Buffers [Circular] for several years w/Decent results
on other cars we've had. But,This Shelby Paint [Clear Coat] wants to fight me/:(.



Modern clearcoats have more in common with plastic than they do real paint like old school solvent-evaporation lacquers and enamels. (My favorite paints to buff)

See the article above as to why you feel the paint is fighting you.






I bought the Stoner,Prior to buying the Shelby,as it's relatively cheap.



Well there's an old saying, not mine but someone's and it goes like this,

You get what you pay for

But again, Stoner products, at least their aerosols have a good reputation and a strong following. Usually when I test someone's products on black paint and they do not perform well I don't like sharing the results as in the past it tends to make people angry. What I do is I just don't use them or showcase them on the very cool cars I bring to AG or for my own detail business.





**I Want to Do a Much Better Job with the Paint, But I have no Clue on what to get for the Problem Areas.

Is this Shelby Paint & Clearcoat different and requires *Specialized Compounds and Waxes* to correct this?



There's only about a dozen OEM paint manufacturers in the world so it's no different than just about anything else getting pushed off assembly lines.

It's just HARD and SCRATCH SENSITIVE

Again, see the article I linked to above.



custmsprty recommended Wolfgang Uber Compound and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (which isn't a GLAZE it's a Fine Cut Polish), and I agree both of these use top notch abrasive technology and will produce professional results on ANY paint system.

I wrote an article that has info about 4 Wolfgang products here, I'd recommend clicking the link and reading about them and if you want to get them then like all my articles there are links to the store to make it easy to get them to your front door..


The Wolfgang Four (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/74198-wolfgang-four.html)







These Issues were there when I bought it, But didn't see it 'til I got it home..

I would **Greatly Appreciate** your Expertise Recommendations on what I need to do or
get to have it looking better than it does now.


PS:The Wife & I are New Davenport/Florida Residents.

We've Been here for 2/Years.

Being an Oregonian myself I'm not always quick to be able to picture where cities in Florida are in relationship to Stuart without looking them up via Google but if you're within driving range of Autogeek I'd highly recommend attending my next Thursday project night and not only will you have a lot of fun but you'll learn a lot too.

My boot camp classes are also very good but they are also $1000.00 for the two day course.


Here's my advice....

Get some known good products, I can vouch first hand for the Wolfgang Uber Compound and Finishing Glaze. The Ferrari in the below thread was compounded with Wolfgang Uber Compound with a wool pad on a rotary to remove all the swirls and scratches and then machine polished with the Finishing Glaze using the Flex 3401 and it has a swirl free finish.

Mark's Fast Ferrari with Wolfgang Fuzion (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/84003-mark-s-fast-ferrari-wolfgang-fuzion.html)


In the garage....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77095



In FULL SUN about a month later....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=80216



You have good tools we just need to make sure you have good abrasive technology.


It's Sunday as I type this and I'm heading out the door for the day but I'll check on this thread first thing Monday morning after I set the garage up for shooting new shows for Ship Shape TV.


:)

[*Shelby/GT500*]

The compound / polish technology has changed substantially over the past 5 years. It's pretty safe to say - most polishes from 5 years ago are obsolete. Wax is wax - you can use any wax you choose on any paint.

Really the best tool you have to likely attack this car isn't the rotary - but the Cyclo. I'm hoping the Cyclo you have is a variable speed model - but you still should be able to get great results with today's polishes / compounds even if it's not.

Some people really love the Cyclo - and they last forever. If I was you - instead of investing a new machine, I'd learn to use the Cyclo to it's fullest potential.

I'd also invest in NEW pads, polishes, and compounds. I'd get Cyclo brand pads, and either Optimum or Wolfgang Polishes. Learning to use the machine in a manner that maximizes it to it's full potential should get you show car results.

Good Evening swanicyouth//
The Cyclo I have I bought used on E/Bay, about 3/years ago. It's an older model and the Retired Body Shop Guy I bought this from had it for about 25/Years. He said it sat most of it's life, and used it only occasionally. It has the Aluminum Top Handle. I'm guessing it's probably close to 35/yrs. old. It's not Variable Speed , But, It does have a Low & High Speed Switch. I took it all apart and Buffed the Aluminum Housing up w/my Floor Stand Up Buffer,[It Looks Dam Good]. I put new Brushes in it/changed the Cord and bought some Cyclo Foam Buff Pads. I haven't used the Cyclo Pads much. So they're still in like new condition. Well, I'm guessing you know about the *Makita 9227C*.
I'm going to get the Wolfgang Products that you and custmsprty recommended for the Paint Correction. I do like to Detail my cars and have them look really nice/:xyxthumbs:.
I know it takes awhile to do paint correction, But I have the Patience and Desire to work at it/:buffing:. I'm *No Professional*, And common sense would tell me that it takes a lot of Time/Knowledge & Skill to be like You Guys and Mike Phillips...No Doubt! I just hope I can get the Shelby to look better than it does now. I **Thank You** for Your: Help/Info and Time to Respond to me. Much Appreciated, Sir/:props:.Have A Good Evening.
Best Regards//
Raymond

[Mike Phillips]

Here's an article on how to use a Cyclo Polisher.... lots of pictures....


How To Use The Cyclo Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/55560-how-use-cyclo-polisher.html)



Here's a streetrod we buffed out using only Cyclo polishers just a few weeks ago.... lots and lots of pictures....


1938 Plymouth Sedan Streetrod Extreme Makeover! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/82852-1938-plymouth-sedan-streetrod-extreme-makeover.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=78762


The paint on this old Plymouth came out looking just like it should...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=78999




:xyxthumbs:

[*Shelby/GT500*]

Here's an article on how to use a Cyclo Polisher.... lots of pictures....


How To Use The Cyclo Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/55560-how-use-cyclo-polisher.html)



Here's a streetrod we buffed out using only Cyclo polishers just a few weeks ago.... lots and lots of pictures....


1938 Plymouth Sedan Streetrod Extreme Makeover! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/82852-1938-plymouth-sedan-streetrod-extreme-makeover.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=78762


The paint on this old Plymouth came out looking just like it should...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=78999




:xyxthumbs:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Good Morning Mike//
I didn't get a chance to **Thank You for Your Response/Info/Help & Guidance
on my Questions**/:xyxthumbs:...I'll check out the How~To on the Link you sent about the
Cyclo. I hope my High/Low Speed Cyclo will be okay to work on the Shelby.
I wish it did have the Vari~Speed like the newer models.I recently purchased a pair
of the Cyclo Blue Cotton [?] Pads. But, Again, I'll check the Cyclo Link you sent/:).
Thank You Mike, And Have A Great Day. Ohh, BTW, I live close to Kissimmee.
Best Regards//
Raymond

[Mike Phillips]

I hope my High/Low Speed Cyclo will be okay to work on the Shelby.



It will work fine, the key with your model is to never turn the polisher on until the face of the pads are in contact with the paint and then....

Get ready to start moving the polisher as soon as you turn it on so you don't sling product everywere...

It's just a tweak of your technique. The two main benefits to the variables speed model are,

1. The ability to run the tool at a lower speed for some processes like using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads to decontaminate paint or to use brushes to scrub upholstery, vinyl, leather etc.

2. The ability to start out at a slow speed when starting out with fresh product to prevent splatter.






Ohh, BTW, I live close to Kissimmee.



Okay... I know where that's at. I just created the sign-up thread for our next Thursday project night, that's a pretty good drive but I have people that regularly drive in from all over the place, it's just up to you. Maybe find someone else that would like to attend this class and share the driving.


Sign-up: Thursday Project Night at Autogeek (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/sign-up-project-cars-clinics/84270-sign-up-thursday-project-night-autogeek.html)


I have not confirmed the car we're going to work on yet but I always have something cool to work on and that means lots of hands on time.


You can see what some of our past projects have been by looking through the write-ups in this forum group.

Pictures from Autogeek's Car of the Week (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/)



:)

[*Shelby/GT500*]

Evening Mike//
Thank You, Sir for your Help/:xyxthumbs:/:props:!!.You make it look E~A~S~Y..
On the Wolfgang Products that was recommended, Just wondering if the
*8/Ounce Size* of the 4 some be enough to do the Shelby, Or should I
get the larger size, Please? I'm sorry to bother you with the little things, But I
just want to do this and then, not have enough. I really don't know about the
Wolfgang Products & how far it will go on a Cyclo Pad. I have White/Orange
Yellow/Green & those Blue. [I Believe the Blue are MicroFiber for Finishing]
I have *Clay Bars* and plenty of Microfiber Cloths. So, just LMK what size I'll
need to do the Shelby, Please. Thank You Again for Your Info/Help/Guidance
& Timely Response, When you can. Have A Good Evening.
Best Regards//
Raymond

[Mike Phillips]

Evening Mike//
Thank You, Sir for your Help/:xyxthumbs:/:props:!!.You make it look E~A~S~Y..
On the Wolfgang Products that was recommended, Just wondering if the
*8/Ounce Size* of the 4 some be enough to do the Shelby, Or should I
get the larger size, Please?





If it were me I would go for the 16 ounce bottles to make sure I had enough plus more for any future projects.






I'm sorry to bother you with the little things, But I just want to do this and then, not have enough.


I really don't know about the Wolfgang Products & how far it will go on a Cyclo Pad. I have White/Orange Yellow/Green & those Blue. [I Believe the Blue are MicroFiber for Finishing.




Our store page for Cyclo pads will tell you what is what....

Cyclo 4 Inch Premium Foam Pads fit on each head of your Cyclo Dual Head Orbital Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/cyclo-pads.html)






I have *Clay Bars* and plenty of Microfiber Cloths. So, just LMK what size I'll need to do the Shelby, Please.



I included a link showing a 1938 Plymouth we buffed out and it's like a step-by-step how to article to use for your Shelby without having to deal with vinyl graphics.

For the correction step, either the yellow or orange foam pads.

For the polishing probably the blue or green pads.

Then wax by hand or with the white pads.





Thank You Again for Your Info/Help/Guidance & Timely Response, When you can.

Have A Good Evening.
Best Regards//
Raymond


Sorry for the late reply and brief answers.... in the middle of a TV shoot for sanding and buffing a 1960 Glastron...

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/527/Sanding_Gel-Coat_004.jpg



:)

[*Shelby/GT500*]

Good Morning Mike//
As far as I'm concerned, You *Do Not Ever Have To Apologize* for a late response to me,As,I understand you're a busy man and have work to do.
When you do Respond, I'm grateful for your **Help/Info & Honesty** with Questions I've asked you/:xyxthumbs:.And I'm also Grateful to the AutoGeek Members who've Responded w/their Help/Knowledge & Info to me.I did order the *Wolfgang/4* 16~Oz. Bottles* the other day and they out for Delivery, Today [Thursday]/ :dblthumb2: !!. I used the *10% Off AG/Coupon* on the Purchase, Which helped save some $$$$'s! Thanx Again, Mike, And as Always, Appreciate your Guidance/Help and Info. Have A Great Day and The Best w/your Project.
Best Regards//
Raymond