Heavy Sap Removal - Experts get in here

[VP Mark]

Worked on a Tahoe today that had a lot of heavy sap. Did my normal routine then used heavy duty clay on it. Took the sap off the surface but there is a LOT of staining. Tried polish, adhesive remover, ect. to no avail. This is a LOT of heavy sap that has baked itself into the clearcoat(been there for almost a year I learned from client).

Told client I recommended using the FK decon system to get as much out as possible.

Any other recommendations? I've read IPA and Mineral Spirits works on but this is a lot of sap that seems to almost have become one with the clear coat. In the pics it look high but it is actually very smooth after I clayed. The sap is that deep.

Would love thoughts/opinions advice.

I plan on ordering the FK system tonight to use on it but would like to have some other weapons available when I go back also.

Will have to upload pics from phone, for some reason my PC wont allow.

[VP Mark]

Pics

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[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Don't have an answer for you but wanted to subscribe and give this a bump.

[VP Mark]

Don't have an answer for you but wanted to subscribe and give this a bump.

Thanks. Surely some guys out there have dealt with this.

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[WRAPT C5Z06]

Lacquer thinner.

[Audios S6]

I have not dealt with sap that bad. But what I do know is that sap responds well to solvents (IPA, Tarminator, body prep solvent) more so than acid or alkalines that you would find in the FK decon system. That said, the FK system does say that it removes tree sap so there must be something to it.

Strictly a guess: since sap is a combination or organic and inorganic compounds, both the acid and alkaline would be necessary.

My go-to is normally IPA soaked towels left to dwell on the surface until the sap is softened, similar to the bug cleaning method.

[addysdaddy]

Think I would PM Mike P, Todd H or Nick and get their opinions

[FrankS]

I had a similar situation on a PT Cruiser I detailed. I was able to level out the sap or mold with a clay bar and it looked much better but wasn't able to get the spots out completely even though I tried Tarminator and Mineral Spirits.

Here is an excerpt of that post:

Some type of mold or sap on the roof.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=75273

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=75275

Tried a couple of things to get it off such as Stoners Tarminator and even mineral spirits but it didn't do anything. I thought I would have to use a plastic razor blade but I didn't have any so I went with a clay bar and ONR as the lube. I never thought the clay bar would do anything since the mold/sap was pretty hard. To my amazement the clay bar leveled it out really good.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=75276

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=75279

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=75278

[tuscarora dave]

Lacquer thinner.

:iagree: If lacquer thinner doesn't remove it, then there's a good chance the clear in those areas has been compromised to the point that the base coat color has been changed by whatever compounds were in the sap that was left on for so long.

Possibly permanent damage there. "I've seen tree sap (left on for long periods) etch clean through clear, base coat and the primer right into the metal."

The above bold statement is true, and is exactly how I tell it to a prospective client when they mention tree sap.

If you can't remove it, it was known to be a possibility from the gate. If you can remove it, then you are a hero for a day.

I'll venture an educated guess, and say that if lacquer thinner won't remove it, sanding won't do it either, because the damage is likely below the clear coat.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

:iagree: If lacquer thinner doesn't remove it, then there's a good chance the clear in those areas has been compromised to the point that the base coat color has been changed by whatever compounds were in the sap that was left on for so long.

Possibly permanent damage there. "I've seen tree sap (left on for long periods) etch clean through clear, base coat and the primer right into the metal."

The above bold statement is true, and is exactly how I tell it to a prospective client when they mention tree sap.

If you can't remove it, it was known to be a possibility from the gate. If you can remove it, then you are a hero for a day.

I'll venture an educated guess, and say that if lacquer thinner won't remove it, sanding won't do it either, because the damage is likely below the clear coat.
:dblthumb2: :props:

[damaged442]

What kind of sap? My parents place is surrounded by white pines and their car gets bombed pretty regularly. I have always used IPA and it comes off. Depending on how long it has been on the paint, it may take a while, but I get it eventually.

[VP Mark]

Thanks for the responses. The client was not sure what type of tree was dropping the sap.

As I said, the clay leveled the sap well but there was still plenty of residue. I use prep sol which is basically adhesive remover to no avail. When I go to do the FK wash I'm going to bring mineral spirits, IPA, and Xenit. I told the client there is a real possibility that it is there permanently. She is trying to sell the vehicle so would really like it removed.

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[ilian11]

Rubbing alcohol works every time for me. :xyxthumbs:

[Dannyk]

Have used Goof Off with high degree of success when removing tree sap. As stated previously, the clear may have been already compromised leading to a different problem. Hope things work out for you though.

[VP Mark]

Rubbing alcohol works every time for me. :xyxthumbs:

I agree lots of things work. The thing is this is a lot of sap that has been there for a very long time.

After claying the surface feels extremely smooth - that's what bothers me. It has at the minimum etched itself into the clear.

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