Need help with wetsand marks...

[cfiiman]

Hey guys,

I had a few scratches on the front of my car that I wanted to see if my PC7424XP would get out with my Adam's pads/compounds. Well after a while working on it they didn't touch them. I did just a little light wetsanding and I think I didn't let the paper soak long enough so the scratches were a little harsher than I wanted/thought. I basically can't get them all the way out, this is a very small area maybe 2" long at most. It is so slight that if I didn't point it out someone may never see it but it bugs the crap out of me. I'm thinking either:

A. My compounds are not aggressive enough or
B. My sanding marks are a little too deep b/c I didn't soak the paper.

Question is I was going to pick up Megs UC tomorrow and try it again with my most aggressive pad, but should I also pick up some 2500 and/or 3000 grit paper and lightly sand the small area again before polishing? Any advice would be appreciated. I started lightly with 1500 and thought I had the higher grits in my drawer but I'm out, so that is why I tried to just polish it out from there which I'm thinking the PC just can't do effectively. Thanks for any guidance.

[hernandez.art13]

I would find it very difficult almost dangerous to the paint trying to buff out 1500 using a PC.

Assuming that you haven't sanded to deep if (not recommending you do this just in case you burn through)

What "I" would do, I would go over the 1500 with 3000 and then attempt to buff that out.

If I only had a PC, I would switch to a 3inch bp and to a 3" TufBuf wool pad. Then get some compound, I would probably reach for M100 since I am familiar with it, then buff that out using that combo and then polish it.

Since I'd be working on plastic (the bumper) I would really watch heat build up as well. (I think I read bumper somewhere)

^Is it that orange car and is that a Viper? If so maybe I would find a local pro detailer to help you out, just to be safe.

[hernandez.art13]

Seems that your in advanced detailing situation here. So IMO tread lightly or even better would be to get some professional help... (not sure why I keep thinking bumper :dunno: )

[cfiiman]

Yes it is that car. I think I just was hoping the DA would take it out and the more reading I'm doing the more I realize that will not happen. The reason I use the DA is so I can't damage the paint, or at least it would take a lot I've read. Your suggestion is exactly what my plan was, I'm going to pick up some 3000 tommorrow and then lightly go over the little area and re-polish and see what happens. Like I said it looks fine, just ever so slightly in the right angle of light you can barely see the scratches, so i'm thinking the 3000 followed by a polish will do it. If not you live you learn, it wouldn't be the only blemish on the front, my whole underside is torn up from scraping on every bump in the road lol. I made sure to only "test" an area and i'm glad I did, I just thought I had more paper and I didn't so I got impatient is all and went straight to see if the old PC could do it lol, it can't :) I'll have to help it by making the scratches much much finer which I'll do tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.

[cfiiman]

But this does beg another question, back to my issue of the "original" scratches I was trying to get out before my wet sanding debacle. The car is 100% swirl free, it is just lots of little annoying straight line scratches that irk me. Some half an inch, some a lot longer like a piece of grit got in the mitt or something. Should I just live with these? I'm thinking my Adam's stuff is not going to get them out, and honestly I'm scared to use something like a rotary on this car. I have used them in the past and I know how to, I just don't like how fast they go, if something goes wrong it is usually too late and this is a show car with original paint. Would Megs UC or 105 be more aggressive then the Adam's swirl and haze remover? Do you think it would get some of these smaller straight line scratches out with the PC7424xp? The Adam's polishes did great on swirls but does jack to any scratches on the car is why I'm asking about switching to another product.

[AutowerxDetailing]

It will actually be much safer (and more effective) to refine your 1500g sanding marks with 3000g and then polish out the 3000g marks with your compound or polish of choice.

Also, I would recommend applying the 3000g by machine for a more refined sanding scratch pattern; however, if sanding by hand you should alternate the direction of your final grit (so it's perpendicular to your previous sanding marks) which will help you ensure that you've fully remove the lower grit marks.

[cfiiman]

It will actually be much safer (and more effective) to refine your 1500g sanding marks with 3000g and then polish out the 3000g marks with your compound or polish of choice.

Also, I would recommend applying the 3000g by machine for a more refined sanding scratch pattern; however, if sanding by hand you should alternate the direction of your final grit (so it's perpendicular to your previous sanding marks) which will help you ensure that you've fully remove the lower grit marks.

Thanks for the reply, when you say apply 3000g by machine I'm confused, are you referring to 3000 grit paper? If so I don't know how I would apply it with a machine without scratching up a big area. The area in question is just maybe 1/2" high by 2" long. I'll pick up some 3000 tomorrow and lightly go over and crosshatch the pattern very lightly and re-polish.

[hernandez.art13]

I am not familiar with Adam's polishes since I've never used them. Are you talking about this? (Adam's Paint Correcting Polish) We aren't allowed to post links on here.

I couldn't find any information if it's a compound or an aggressive polish and I also couldn't find what sanding grit it could remove.

As in this:
Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is a professional product. It is designed to be used with a wool pad on a high-speed rotary polisher. Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is body shop safe, paintable, and contains no fillers. This safe, VOC compliant formula can be used on all paint finishes, including scratch-resistant and conventional clear coats. On fresh paint Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is capable of removing 1200 grit or finer sanding marks.

As far as the other scratches, I really can't say yes or no if they could be removed since I would need to see them in person. (Having a local pro detailer would be a big plus, so you don't have to get to the point of no return and say well you live and learn) Maybe they'd be able to teach you, like a quick 101 to your car.

Also... I am pretty sure you won't need to use a Rotary. I sanded my whole hood 3000 grit then buffed it out and then polished it using a DA. I have removed 1500 using a DA but it's easier and safer to go up to 3000. I used my Rupes 21 btw.

[cfiiman]

I am not familiar with Adam's polishes since I've never used them. Are you talking about this? (Adam's Paint Correcting Polish) We aren't allowed to post links on here.

I couldn't find any information if it's a compound or an aggressive polish and I also couldn't find what sanding grit it could remove.

As in this:
Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is a professional product. It is designed to be used with a wool pad on a high-speed rotary polisher. Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is body shop safe, paintable, and contains no fillers. This safe, VOC compliant formula can be used on all paint finishes, including scratch-resistant and conventional clear coats. On fresh paint Meguiars M100 Pro Speed Compound is capable of removing 1200 grit or finer sanding marks.

As far as the other scratches, I really can't say yes or no if they could be removed since I would need to see them in person. (Having a local pro detailer would be a big plus, so you don't have to get to the point of no return and say well you live and learn) Maybe they'd be able to teach you, like a quick 101 to your car.

Also... I am pretty sure you won't need to use a Rotary. I sanded my whole hood 3000 grit then buffed it out and then polished it using a DA. I have removed 1500 using a DA but it's easier and safer to go up to 3000. I used my Rupes 21 btw.

Art,

Thanks for the info. I'll knock it out tomorrow, thanks for your help.

[hernandez.art13]

Actually, not disagreeing with Nicholas (It's just what I would do) since it is such a small area. I would just do it by hand.

You can machine sand using a DA btw and it works great...

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/IMG_32912_zpsb1b960fc.jpg (http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ScreamKingArt/media/IMG_32912_zpsb1b960fc.jpg.html)

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/IMG_33202_zpsacbfa0a7.jpg (http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ScreamKingArt/media/IMG_33202_zpsacbfa0a7.jpg.html)

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/IMG_33291_zps0bf78f17.jpg (http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ScreamKingArt/media/IMG_33291_zps0bf78f17.jpg.html)

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/IMG_33712_zpsd70ac59e.jpg (http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ScreamKingArt/media/IMG_33712_zpsd70ac59e.jpg.html)

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/IMG_35432_zpsc4c9fbe5.jpg (http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ScreamKingArt/media/IMG_35432_zpsc4c9fbe5.jpg.html)

Where do you plan on getting 3000 grit?

[cfiiman]

Cool I didn't know that, I'm not real experienced sanding though, which you would think I would have asked before doing this little spot lol. I'll try it by hand first and see how that goes, I have a small circular microfiber pad would that be ok to use or would I need something else? I guess I'll hold off on the UC until I see if my Adam's can get it out once I bring it up to 3000g.

[hernandez.art13]

I am not sure which pad your specifically talking about so can't say yes or no and I have never used the Adam's products. (Did get a sample of their tire dressing though when I went to Detailing dot com, works good :) ) I'm just a Meguiar's Guy :coolgleam:

Careful though and tread really lightly, remember I did recommend you seek professional help. :)

Good luck and report back!

[cfiiman]

I am not sure which pad your specifically talking about so can't say yes or no and I have never used the Adam's products. (Did get a sample of their tire dressing though when I went to Detailing dot com, works good :) ) I'm just a Meguiar's Guy :coolgleam:

Careful though and tread really lightly, remember I did recommend you seek professional help. :)

Good luck and report back!

It is not an "Adam's pad", just a 4 inch round microfiber I picked up somewhere, I was just asking if that would be ok to use or do you need something special? If so I'll just use the PC7424XP, thanks.

[hernandez.art13]

It is not an "Adam's pad", just a 4 inch round microfiber I picked up somewhere, I was just asking if that would be ok to use or do you need something special? If so I'll just use the PC7424XP, thanks.

Sorry meant, I am not sure which pad you are specifically talking about. So don't know what it can or can't do or read up on it.

And as far as the Adam's Paint Correcting Polish or Adam's Paint Finishing Polish, I really know nothing about either product. So can't recommend either or. :xyxthumbs:

[AutowerxDetailing]

Thanks for the reply, when you say apply 3000g by machine I'm confused, are you referring to 3000 grit paper? If so I don't know how I would apply it with a machine without scratching up a big area. The area in question is just maybe 1/2" high by 2" long. I'll pick up some 3000 tomorrow and lightly go over and crosshatch the pattern very lightly and re-polish.

Meguiar's has 3" sand paper discs that work great for spot sanding. I use a 3" backing plate, interface pad, and 3000g Meg's sanding disc on my PCXP for leveling paint chip touch ups and isolated scratch repairs.

If you are machine wet sanding (or even sanding by hand) I highly recommend using a paint thickness gauge to determine the overall film build depth on the spot you are attempting to repair.

If the paint is less than 100 microns total thickness I would just let the scratch live there forever and preserve what's left of the remaining clear coat.

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