Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

[ilian11]

Quick question, still new to all this.

I went through the proper process to remove my swirl marks and finished my car off with Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. I was planning on doing a second coat, but never got a chance too. Is it okay to apply a second coat a week later? Wash and Iron-X then second coat or just wash and add second coat of Deep Gloss sealant?

Thanks guys!

[mwoolfso]

Leave IronX out. You get diminishing returns over time if you maintain a detailing schedule. Wash and then Sealant is my recommendation.

[FUNX650]

Leave IronX out. You get diminishing returns over time if you maintain a detailing schedule. Wash and then Sealant is my recommendation.
^^^:iagree:^^^

I'll only add that I'd use a car-wash product that contains no added Wax(es)...or "gloss enhancers".

Bob

[ilian11]

Thanks guys!

[UglyBetty]

^^^:iagree:^^^

I'll only add that I'd use a car-wash product that contains no added Wax(es)...or "gloss enhancers".

Bob

Ditto what Bob said!

[MarkD51]

If within a week, you should not have much of any nasty buildup of crud unless you park within a forrest of pine trees, or such.

After a wash, give it the ole baggie test. If things feel fairly decent, then go on to apply another coat. If after that section (usually either the hood of roof are the most susceptible) and you still feel grit, maybe a light claying before another coat.

[hoyt66]

^^^:iagree:^^^

I'll only add that I'd use a car-wash product that contains no added Wax(es)...or "gloss enhancers".

Bob

I've never felt that any "wax" or " gloss enhancers" within a car wash product were strong enough or had enough presence to interfere with a straight up wax or sealant. It's kinda " gimmicky" like at the ole swirl maker car wash when ppl pay for the wax and the light comes on saying " wax being applied now" hahaha. Just my .02

[ilian11]

If within a week, you should not have much of any nasty buildup of crud unless you park within a forrest of pine trees, or such.

After a wash, give it the ole baggie test. If things feel fairly decent, then go on to apply another coat. If after that section (usually either the hood of roof are the most susceptible) and you still feel grit, maybe a light claying before another coat.

She's garage kept, thanks on the Baggie test idea!

[FUNX650]

IMO:
Many (most) car wash shampoos have surfactants.

As such:


•Some of those surfactants are what are known as:
-gloss enhancers.
-Some of those are responsible for giving water beading/sheeting effects.

It is far from the norm for wash products to contain a genuine protection capacity, whether that is sealant or wax.
•A great indicator is the clarity of your product.

-If it is transparent, it is highly likely that there is no real wax or sealant, the product probably has surfactant surface modifiers (i.e. cheap).

-If it is opaque or translucent, there is a possibility that it does in fact contain wax or polymers (i.e. expensive) of some sort which could provide a real 'top up' to your LSP.


Again IMO:
Why take the chance of having some (any)
of a car wash product's:

Surfactant's, Wax's, or Sealant's film-layer...
on which to apply WGDGPS?


Bob

[molarman]

imo wg 3.0 sealant is very easy to use and it seems to last as well