Paint flaw question

[Craig21]

Hi Everyone,

I tried to make some improvement to this spot on my car's roof (blue metallic 2011 328i) this past week end to no avail. This is maybe a 1/2" long spot. I tried 3M Rubbing Compound worked in with my PC7242 and a Lake County yellow pad. Didn't touch it at all. I could try working it by hand for more concentrated pressure. Also these are 6" pads, so I probably need smaller pads to get this older PC to work better.

I have a feeling this is a Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching.

Any guidance?

-Craig

[Hazcat]

Ouch...I'm not sure you're going to get that one back. Wetsand with 2000 grit may get it to look slightly better then polish out the scratches from the sand paper with Optimum's Hypercompound if you have it or whatever is your favorite. I'm just blown away by Optimum's Hypercompound as of late. It may be time for a write up. If I were any good at videos I'd do one.

[Craig21]

The picture makes it look a lot bigger than it is, so I'm OK with "making it better", but not perfect. I don't think I would have the panel resprayed just for this. I need some more practice with wetsanding & polishing, so I think I will tackle some small rock chips on less noticeable spots first.

Thanks for the recommendation for Hypercompound.

[Mike Phillips]

I have a feeling this is a Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching.

Any guidance?

-Craig


Hi Craig,

Sounds like you've read my article and looked at the pictures....






Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html)


Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings

Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etching
Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching


There are two common types of damage associated with bird dropping etchings;



Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etching
Type I Topical Stain Etchings are usually only topical, that is shallow enough that they can be completely removed or at least greatly improved to the point where they are difficult to see.

This type of etching can be removed using a clear coat safe compound or polish by hand or machine. Hand removal is almost always more efficient as you can exert more pressure to a small area and thus keep your work area isolated to just the affected area. By machine you can use a Spot Repair System, again to keep the work area isolated to just the affected area.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/797/M105RemoveBirdDropping002c.jpg


Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching
Type II Wrinkled Etchings are usually too deep to fix safely. The problem is the paint fractures, (splits apart in tiny lines,), or wrinkles as the paint swells and bunches together. In both instances, the resulting defect is throughout the clear layer of paint and not topical.

Thus trying to remove it will require removing so much clear paint that you will likely expose the basecoat, or colored layer of paint which has a dull appearance.

For this reason it's not safe to try to remove a Type II Bird Dropping Wrinkled or Fractured Etching.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/719/BirdDroppingEtchingWrinkles.jpg





And like I wrote in my article it's not safe to try to remove a Type II Bird Dropping Etching.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...

:)

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Everyone,


I tried 3M Rubbing Compound worked in with my PC7242 and a Lake County yellow pad. Didn't touch it at all.

I could try working it by hand for more concentrated pressure.

Also these are 6" pads, so I probably need smaller pads to get this older PC to work better.


You'll definitely have better luck trying to "improve" it by working by hand as you can exert a lot of pressure with 2-3 fingers pushing against an applicator pad whereas with your 6" pads are going to really spread all your pressure out over a large area.







I have a feeling this is a Type II Bird Dropping - Fractured/Wrinkled Etching.

Any guidance?

-Craig

Try rubbing by hand with a microfiber applicator pad and then immediately wipe off the residue. Then you want to apply something clear or gray or black to the defect and rub this into it. Rubbing something that's not white into it and then getting it out will help keep it from showing the white residue from the compound.

Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is a clearish wax that doesn't stain white.
Poorboy's Black Hole Glaze is blackish.
Meguiar's #7 and #26 are clearish

It's really a tough defect to work on and not be an eyesore.


:)

[Craig21]

Mike, thanks for the feedback. Yep, read your article which was very helpful! OK, so removing the defect isn't going to happen, but I'll try your suggestions to make it less noticeable. Good point that there may be some residue in the cracks that gives it a white appearance, and removing that and replacing it with something darker or clear will help.

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, thanks for the feedback. Yep, read your article which was very helpful! OK, so removing the defect isn't going to happen, but I'll try your suggestions to make it less noticeable. Good point that there may be some residue in the cracks that gives it a white appearance, and removing that and replacing it with something darker or clear will help.

This might be a reach but it wouldn't hurt anything,

After any compounding or polishing with white products, take a baby's first tooth brush, these have very fine, soft and flexible bristles and massage the area with something like baby oil or even vegetable oil. The oil will help emulsify and break up the polish residue and then rinse it off using some soap.

Just an idea...

Then seal with something clear. Most coatings are clear, spray and walk away waxes/sealants, etc.


:)

[Craig21]

Great idea. I was going to try a soft detailing brush, but smaller bristles would probably help.