Engine Detailing - Wanting LESS Shine and MORE Protection/Longevity

[98LowRanger]

I use Meguiars Hyper Dressing on engines after I clean them. I love how it shines all the plastics and rubber surfaces up. All my customers have also loved how "shiny" their engine bays have turned out...except one. I detailed a good friend of mines BRZ last weekend. When he saw the engine bay he was happy, but told me he preferred a more clean and matte finish with less shine. He isn't into the car show look and I understand that. I've been considering a new product to use on engine bays because the Hyper Dressing is water based. I know that's a good thing, but it only takes a few washes/rain storms before the engine bay looks bad again.

So I am looking for a product that adds a little protection to the plastic and rubber components in the engine bay. I would like for it to have a little longevity to keep the engine looking clean. Also if it provided a more matte and less shiny finish that would be great too.

From my research all I have come up with to try is 303 Aerospace Protectant and Stoner Trim Shine Vinyl and Plastic Coating (aerosol can).

[allenk4]

Sonus Motor Kote

Less shiny

Longer Lasting

Does not attract dust


Follow the directions to the letter

[hagerbump]

Try mixing the Hyper Dressing at a different concentration. Say 6, 8 or 10:1. You will get less shine and more matte finish.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Hyper Dressing 4:1 for engine bays. Great darkening effect without the unnecessary sheen.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online

[hagerbump]

4:1 works great for me on the engine bay, just thought they may want to try different concentrations since it is a problem for only one customer :)

[GettingStarted]

303 Aerospace isn't too shiny.

[BeachZone]

This may also be that your application method affects the amount of gloss. How do you apply?

Even with Hyper diluted to 4:1, if you apply too much, you will get a satin finish (or even glossier) than the Matte finish you're looking for. I choose to use an atomized sprayer for an even non-dripping wet coat. This way, it's nice and consistent while not needing an additional wipe after it has dried.

Jean-Claude may chime in with his application method using a airbrush gun.


-Beach

[Zelfiris]

303 Aerospace isn't too shiny.

+1

I used 303. Its not too expensive and doesn't finish glossy

[The Guz]

I agree with others on adjusting the dilution ratio. Don't overlook Meguiar's D4510 Plastic & Vinyl Coating. Lasts a couple weeks.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/81822-son1c-synopsis-75-meguiars-d4510-aerosol-plastic-vinyl-spray-dressing-coating-review.html

[cleanmycorolla]

I use opti bond on my engine bay. Low gloss and lasts a while. I also purchased the new Blackfire Trim Sealant and will be trying that on my engine bay.

[98LowRanger]

Thanks for all the replies guys!! :xyxthumbs:

Honestly, I use a decent amount of Megs Hyper Dressing and undiluted :eek: It's nice to know that a lot of you are diluting it some and still getting good results. I'm going to try diluting it a little since it is of course more cost effective.

Diluting it will solve the too shiny complaint, but not prolong the longevity and protection though. So far for this you guys have recommended the following:

Sonus Motor Kote
303 Aerospace

The Sonus Motor Kote is a TAD better buy, but they are very close in the price/oz. I use opti-bond tire gel (that is what your recommending cleanmycorolla?) on tires, but looking for a spray on an engine to get in all the nooks and crannies.

**EDIT** Just realized that you can dilute Opti-bond tire gel and use it in spray application. Hmmmm....since I already have it and use it on tires, this may be a good option for me to at least try.

[Eric]

If you want better durability you're going to want an oil based dressing. As most here know I am not a huge fan of Chemical Guys but their Blue Guard II is a very good product. I used it on my engine bay months ago and it still looks good.

[PA DETAILER]

Sonus motor kote.

[cardaddy]

Might also look into PERL as it can be diluted nine ways from Sunday. I find that 1:3 isn't terribly shiny and 1:5 really doesn't have any shine. The trick is that it needs to be applied to a 100% dry surface, then be allowed to dry completely. Once PERL dries it'll provide a noticeable "shell" over whatever rubber surface it's applied to. So much so in fact that you can see and feel that "shell", as it'll actually provide resistance beneath your fingernail on softer rubber surfaces.

[98LowRanger]

Might also look into PERL as it can be diluted nine ways from Sunday. I find that 1:3 isn't terribly shiny and 1:5 really doesn't have any shine. The trick is that it needs to be applied to a 100% dry surface, then be allowed to dry completely. Once PERL dries it'll provide a noticeable "shell" over whatever rubber surface it's applied to. So much so in fact that you can see and feel that "shell", as it'll actually provide resistance beneath your fingernail on softer rubber surfaces.


Funny you mention PERL. When my Opti-Bond runs out I was either going to give it a try or Tuf Shine's tire clear coat as a tire dressing. I blow air over the engine to dry it before I apply the Hyper Dressing, but it isn't 100% dry. Thanks for the info! My decision is still up in the air with Motor Kote, 303 Aerospace, CG Blue Guard, and now PERL (due to it's multiple use as a tire gel). Ugh, decisions, decisions! It will probably come down to cost and if I can also use it on tires with great results. Multi-purpose products kill 2 birds with 1 stone.