Single stage blemishes

[ahook93]

Ive got a 4 year old single stage paint job on an 89 mustang that is littered with (type 3?) water spots.

Ive tried a few different rubbing compounds but nothing seems to penetrate deep enough to get them out.

Is there any other options short of a respray?

Any input appreciated


http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l77/Andrew_Hook/IMAG0076_zpshs3hmyzw.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l77/Andrew_Hook/IMAG0077_zps7jkdax2e.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l77/Andrew_Hook/IMAG0079_zpscgumvjro.jpg


:D

[jamesboyy]

Welcome to autogeek, have you tried a acid based water spot remover like meguiars water spot remover its in a dark red bottle you can get it at pep boys

[ahook93]

I have not, after the compounds wouldn't remove it I didn't have much hope for any other products.

[jamesboyy]

There will be times like that but just take a break,then go back tackling that project, and if you cant find that product just let me know I could give you some if you like just PM me

take a look at these links also

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/33499-3-types-water-spots-type-i-type-ii-type-iii.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/39929-classic-car-water-spots-single-stage-paint.html

[Mike Phillips]

Looks like a prime candidate for a wool pad on a rotary buffer and a quality compound.

Not sure what you're using for a compound but when it comes to oxidized, dried out single stage paint I avoid low cost compounds because they tend to use solvents that will dry out the paint further and the abrasives they use will tend to just scour the paint.

If you haven't tried a really good compound yet that's where I'd start next...


Single stage paint can be saved in most cases... check out what we did with this old Isuzu a few weeks ago...

1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Single Stage Paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/82181-1998-isuzu-rodeo-extreme-makeover-single-stage-paint.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77918

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77921

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77960


:)

[ahook93]

For compounds I have just been using cheap stuff. I'm just a backyard mechanic with no detailing experience that's why I came to you guys

[Mike Phillips]

For compounds I have just been using cheap stuff. I'm just a backyard mechanic with no detailing experience that's why I came to you guys


And that was my guess but I like to be sensitive to everyone from all walks of life.

From time to time we have people join the forum that take a cheap compound and rub it on their car's clearcoat finish with the best intentions of removing some type of defect only to end up here to ask how to remove the scratches the cheap compound inflicted into their car's paint.

When it comes to compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes, what separates the good ones from the bad ones is the abrasive technology they use.

Good abrasive technology cost more but it does the job right the first time and saves you from having to buy a new paint job.


The pictures show the paint condition to be absolutely horrible. I just posted an brand new article that includes a caution about getting too aggressive with single stage metallic paint because you can change the appearance of the paint in a negative way, it's called Tiger Stripes.

Single Stage Metallic & Clearcoat Metallic --> Same Car (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/83078-single-stage-metallic-clearcoat-metallic-same-car.html)



If this 1989 Mustang or more specifically the paint job on this 1989 Mustang is important to you... then I'd suggest you start by rubbing the paint down by hand using a terrycloth wash cloth and a product that's been around since the time of the Ford Model T formula unchanged, and that's #7 Show Car Glaze. This is basically a rich feeder oil that if it's at all possible, will bring this paint back to life.


#7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeek.net/meg7showcarg.html)


Then get some Wolfgang Uber Compound and buff out the paint by hand or machine.


Wolfgang Uber Compound (http://www.autogeek.net/wg-5601.html)

Like I said, if the paint can be saved this is the best approach. See my article here...


The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html)




If it's not important to you, as in not like classics and antiques are important to serious car enthusiasts because these are the people I wrote the above article for, then just compound it.

But the paint looks incredibly dry...


:)
:)

[allenk4]

Looks like you have not cut thru the oxidation yet.

Are you compounding by machine or by hand?
If by hand...Mike Phillips has some great tips on polishing paint by hand

Did you do a test spot?

What specific compounds have you tried?

[Mike Phillips]

To be honest....


If you click the link below and look at the different categories, from the pictures the paint on your Mustang looks like,


11: Past the point of no return
Paint in this condition will be a paint job that falls into one of the above categories but it is so far gone that nothing you pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can from any company will fix it.


And




9: Unstable
This category is for older, single stage paints that have been exposed to the sun for a long enough period of time that the pigments have become unstable. That is even if you remove the oxidation and gorge the paint with some type of polishing oils, any original color that is restored is only a temporary fix and when the paint is exposed to the sun or after a few days pass the color fades back to where it was before you started.



This article is a page from my how-to book on polishing paint....


Page 37 - Paint Condition Categories (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/51281-page-37-paint-condition-categories.html)



:)

[ahook93]

I picked up some #7 hopefully those oils will help it look a bit more presentable and ill try to pick up some better compound to do some test spots with

[jamesboyy]

Sounds like a great start, thanks for keeping us posted....also hopefully you can show some pics of how that looks like after number 7 did its magic

[ahook93]

Will do

[ahook93]

Sorry no pics yet but I did manage a test spot of the m7 before work. The paint absorbs it very quickly and seemed to restore some of its color. Hopefully it has lasting effects

[jamesboyy]

Its all good, it seems as if your paintwork is hungry when you have a spare day try leaving m7 on the paintwork for 12 hours or overnight then buff it off