Matte Black Stripes and polishing

[Meticulous-Detail]

My new ride has matte black stripes. I have cleaned matte black stripes with CG Matte Black detailer before and clayed and polished gloss vinyl stripes. Can you use a light polish like SF4000 on matte stripes with a polishing pad to get out scuffs/stains/marks etc?

I washed and wet glazed them and they look great but I plan on a full correction and detail in the near future.

[FUNX650]

•I'd stick with using only matte-products.
-Nanolex
-Dr. Beasley
-Swissvax
-Chemical Guys
-Other brands may have some?

Bob

[HateSwirls]

I've done a few in the past, always worried me but turned out nice.
That was using 205 and a damp MF applicator pad.

If I had to do a set now I'd use the Optimum Fine Polish over the 205 but still with a damp MF applicator by hand.

Sent from my LG-D800 using AG Online

[Meticulous-Detail]

Ok maybe stick with matte products only, Wet Glaze 2.0 gave a nice satin look. I only have maybe 1 or 2 marks I wanted to get out.

[Hazcat]

If you polish them you lose your matte finish. I watched a streaming video on here and Mike Phillips used Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant on the flat black stripes on a Mustang. I think it's around the 48 to 49 minute mark on the video in this thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/51494-1970-mustang-mach-1-video-pictures.html

[HateSwirls]

If you polish them you lose your matte finish. I watched a streaming video on here and Mike Phillips used Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant on the flat black stripes on a Mustang. I think it's around the 48 to 49 minute mark on the video in this thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/51494-1970-mustang-mach-1-video-pictures.html

I use the Wolfgang Trim Sealant on my wrap to protect it, doesn't cover any marks but it sure does protect it well, a lot of beading going on.

[Meticulous-Detail]

I have UTTG and Sonax PNS for possible protection options. Wonder if Black Fire TPNS would work as it is a light AIO?

[HUMP DIESEL]

I taped them off on a Ford FX4 that I did earlier this year to just make sure I did not get anything on them. I did protect them though at the time with Opti-Seal.

HUMP

[Mike Phillips]

If you polish them you lose your matte finish. I watched a streaming video on here and Mike Phillips used Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant on the flat black stripes on a Mustang. I think it's around the 48 to 49 minute mark on the video in this thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/51494-1970-mustang-mach-1-video-pictures.html


Good memory....

We used the Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant on the orignal 44 year old matte finish vinyl graphics AND the matte finish louvers on the back windown.

The KEY to doing this type of work is to massage the product over and into the surface and the SOFTLY wipe any excess off using a folded, microfiber towel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1460/1970Mach1BeautyShots007.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1460/1970Mach1BeautyShots003.jpg



Paint came out nice too...







Video from the Live Broadcast - 1970 Mustang Mach 1




1970 Mustang Mach 1 - How to polish single stage...


:xyxthumbs:

[Meticulous-Detail]

Good memory....

We used the Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant on the orignal 44 year old matte finish vinyl graphics AND the matte finish louvers on the back windown.

The KEY to doing this type of work is to massage the product over and into the surface and the SOFTLY wipe any excess off using a folded, microfiber towel.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1460/1970Mach1BeautyShots007.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1460/1970Mach1BeautyShots003.jpg



Paint came out nice too...







Video from the Live Broadcast - 1970 Mustang Mach 1



1970 Mustang Mach 1 - How to polish single stage... (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbppD4opsGs)


:xyxthumbs:

Thanx, Mike. I already wiped them down with DG RWW and applied Wet Glaze 2.0 with the massaging method and immediate removal. They look great, but I have one spot where it looks like there might be a light bird poop stain. Besides clay and re-glaze or UTTG what would you recommend for scuff/stain/water spot removal?

[Mike Phillips]

Besides clay and re-glaze or UTTG what would you recommend for scuff/stain/water spot removal?




Nothing.

You're trying to "work" on a material that does not lend itself to being worked on.

The question of working on "things" besides car paint comes up so often that I wrote an article back in 2005 to address the issue, here it is copied and pasted from MOL where I originally wrote it.



What it means to remove a scratch out of anything... (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7228)

We get a lot of questions on our forum and at our Saturday classes from people trying to remove scratches out of all kinds of things, for example:

How do you remove a scratch out of;

* Glass?
* Clear plastic like a headlight lens, radio face plate, dash gages?
* Chrome, like a chrome wheel?
* Paint?
* Interior plastics like a plastic door sill or glove box door?
* Stainless steel, like a stainless steel door sill protector?
* Aluminum?
* Rubber?
* Pebble textured plastic like trim components?

This article isn't' about the how-to for removing scratches out of the above materials or coatings but about the practical science behind how you remove a scratch or any below surface defect out of any material or surface coating.

Read the below statement and think about it for a few minutes...

"Some materials and/or surface coatings don't lend themselves well to being abraded with the end-result looking good or looking like the original appearance"

In order to remove a scratch out of anything, metal, plastic glass, paint, etc. You must remove material around the scratch until the upper most portions of the surface are level with or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or defect you're trying to remove.


Does that make sense?

The below diagram is for paint, however the the same idea applies to just about any coating or surface material.


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2scratchesinpaint.jpg


In essence, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove material around a scratch.


Then the big question becomes...

Is the material or coating workable?

As in, can you abrade small particles of the material or surface coating and leave behind an original looking surface.


For example: Some things you can abrade, (remove the scratch), but you can never completely remove all of your abrading marks, thus you can't really fix the problem, all you can do is exchange one set of scratches of a different set of scratches.

The next factor you have to consider or at least understand is;

How thick is the surface material or material you're working on?


You are limited to what you can do with any material or surface coating. By this we mean there is usually a limit as to how much material you can remove before you run into the risk of removing too much and exposing the underlying surface or removing so much material that you change the component you're working on in a way that it won't look good and you can't undo the damage.

There's a saying on this forum we use often when discussing different members detailing projects and it goes like this,


"Sometimes you don't know what you can so until you try"

It's always a good idea to test your choice of products, applicator materials and application process, (by hand or by machine), to an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good.

It's always a good idea to test first and error on the side of caution, versus make a mistake you cannot undo over the entire component or vehicle.

Incredible that I wrote and posted this article over 9 years ago and it has 0 replies with 57,581 views.


:)

[Meticulous-Detail]

Nothing.

You're trying to "work" on a material that does not lend itself to being worked on.

The question of working on "things" besides car paint comes up so often that I wrote an article back in 2005 to address the issue, here it is copied and pasted from MOL where I originally wrote it.


What it means to remove a scratch out of anything... (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7228)

We get a lot of questions on our forum and at our Saturday classes from people trying to remove scratches out of all kinds of things, for example:

How do you remove a scratch out of;

* Glass?
* Clear plastic like a headlight lens, radio face plate, dash gages?
* Chrome, like a chrome wheel?
* Paint?
* Interior plastics like a plastic door sill or glove box door?
* Stainless steel, like a stainless steel door sill protector?
* Aluminum?
* Rubber?
* Pebble textured plastic like trim components?

This article isn't' about the how-to for removing scratches out of the above materials or coatings but about the practical science behind how you remove a scratch or any below surface defect out of any material or surface coating.

Read the below statement and think about it for a few minutes...

"Some materials and/or surface coatings don't lend themselves well to being abraded with the end-result looking good or looking like the original appearance"

In order to remove a scratch out of anything, metal, plastic glass, paint, etc. You must remove material around the scratch until the upper most portions of the surface are level with or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or defect you're trying to remove.


Does that make sense?

The below diagram is for paint, however the the same idea applies to just about any coating or surface material.


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2scratchesinpaint.jpg


In essence, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove material around a scratch.


Then the big question becomes...

Is the material or coating workable?

As in, can you abrade small particles of the material or surface coating and leave behind an original looking surface.


For example: Some things you can abrade, (remove the scratch), but you can never completely remove all of your abrading marks, thus you can't really fix the problem, all you can do is exchange one set of scratches of a different set of scratches.

The next factor you have to consider or at least understand is;

How thick is the surface material or material you're working on?


You are limited to what you can do with any material or surface coating. By this we mean there is usually a limit as to how much material you can remove before you run into the risk of removing too much and exposing the underlying surface or removing so much material that you change the component you're working on in a way that it won't look good and you can't undo the damage.

There's a saying on this forum we use often when discussing different members detailing projects and it goes like this,


"Sometimes you don't know what you can so until you try"

It's always a good idea to test your choice of products, applicator materials and application process, (by hand or by machine), to an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good.

It's always a good idea to test first and error on the side of caution, versus make a mistake you cannot undo over the entire component or vehicle. Incredible that I wrote and posted this article over 9 years ago and it has 0 replies with 57,581 views.


:)


Thanx! :dblthumb2:

I replied to the thread on Megs just for you :props:

[Mike Phillips]

Thanx! :dblthumb2:

I replied to the thread on Megs just for you :props:


Too funny....


Back when I worked for Meguiar's and taught all their detailing classes we had a white board in the training room and I would at one point or another draw out this same picture on the white board as a visual way to show what it meant to remove swirls and scratches out of car paint.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2scratchesinpaint.jpg


Of course I would be using my hands to explain what and how abrading the paint would work either by hand or machine.

Believe it or not, a lot of people don't get it, that is don't get how swirls and scratches are removed until you break it down in real basic terms with real simple pictures.


Of course... if a person wants to get real deep...


Swirls and Scratches Don't Exist (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/30565-swirls-scratches-don-t-exist.html)


:D