Using D151 before coating???

[mfrickman]

I have two vehicles to coat and both will require a simple one step prior to the coating. I've got D151 and Poorboy's Pro. Polish. Will a paint cleanser step after the D151 or Poorboy's be enough for surface prep or will an IPA wipedown also need to be done?

I'm using PBL on one vehicle and Sonus Ion on another, if that matters.

Thanks everyone!

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[cleanmycorolla]

I wouldn't use an AIO before a coating. Could you use maybe m205?

[aim4squirrels]

I wouldn't use an AIO before a coating. Could you use maybe m205?

I agree.

While the PBL surface cleansing polish claims it will remove previously applied LSPs, I wouldn't personally want to spit into the wind by testing it on a car you just machine forced wax into the pores of the paint. If you miss spots on your cleansing polish step, the coating is sure to fail on those areas of the vehicle.

[rbss]

I have two vehicles to coat and both will require a simple one step prior to the coating. I've got D151 and Poorboy's Pro. Polish. Will a paint cleanser step after the D151 or Poorboy's be enough for surface prep or will an IPA wipedown also need to be done?

I'm using PBL on one vehicle and Sonus Ion on another, if that matters.

Thanks everyone!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using AG Online

There is no need to do a AIO. I would use the poorboys pro polish and do a IPA wipedown of even better use carpro eraser (http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-eraser-ipa.html).

[mfrickman]

Would coating prep polish be sufficient after the poorboys? Don't have m205.

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[cleanmycorolla]

Would coating prep polish be sufficient after the poorboys? Don't have m205.

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I would just skip the poor boys all together and just use the cleansing polish, it will get the surface really clean and depending on pad choice it might tackle light light marring.

[mfrickman]

Unfortunately, I've got more than light marring to take care of.

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[aim4squirrels]

If you're hell bent on using what you've got, I would remove the D151 with an IPA wipe, then use the prep polish as a follow up.

[allenk4]

Neither product description mentions the need for an IPA wipe down.

Both mention their Paint Cleanser as prep prior to application.

Is either product actually a true coating or a sealant.

[mfrickman]

The Sonus is basically a polycharged sealant that is supposed to last for around a year. I'm doing a review for Autopia and here so I'm trying to get a good base to start with.

I'll just use the poorboy's, the prep polish, and a 15% IPA wipedown.

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[FUNX650]

I have two vehicles to coat and both will require a simple one step prior to the coating. I've got D151 and Poorboy's Pro. Polish. Will a paint cleanser step after the D151 or Poorboy's be enough for surface prep or will an IPA wipedown also need to be done?

I'm using PBL on one vehicle and Sonus Ion on another, if that matters.

Thanks everyone!

•First off, and depending on the severity of the paint damage, you need to use the appropriate Polish---not an AIO.

-Whether or not Poorboy's Pro. Polish is that appropriate-Polish, or not, can be determined quite readily by performing the obligatory "Test Spot".

{An Aside:
It is then your decision if another Polish is needed to correct the vehicles' paint to your satisfaction before "Coating" them. Your Wife and yourself are the ones that have to live with the results...not anyone else!}

•Next the Panel-wipe product(s) come into play.

For the PBL-Coating...
-Their recommendation is their PBL-Cleaner:
RE: Synergy

For the Sonus Ion Coating...
-Is this product really a 'Coating'...or a "Sealant on steroids"?
-I see no manufacturer's recommendation for a panel-wipe prior to its application.
-However: Since you're probably going to have some PBL-Paint Cleaner left over...(Why not?)
-That...Or use Sonus' SFX-3 Final Finish as the "panel-wipe": RE: Synergy


Bob

[mfrickman]

•First off, and depending on the severity of the paint damage, you need to use the appropriate Polish---not an AIO.

-Whether or not Poorboy's Pro. Polish is that appropriate-Polish, or not, can be determined quite readily by performing the obligatory "Test Spot".

{An Aside:
It is then your decision if another Polish is needed to correct the vehicles' paint to your satisfaction before "Coating" them. Your Wife and yourself are the ones that have to live with the results...not anyone else!}

•Next the Panel-wipe product(s) come into play.

For the PBL-Coating...
-Their recommendation is their PBL-Cleaner:
RE: Synergy

For the Sonus Ion Coating...
-Is this product really a 'Coating'...or a "Sealant on steroids"?
-I see no manufacturer's recommendation for a panel-wipe prior to its application.
-However: Since you're probably going to have some PBL-Paint Cleaner left over...(Why not?)
-That...Or use Sonus' SFX-3 Final Finish as the "panel-wipe": RE: Synergy


Bob

I'll see what happens with the test spot. You're pretty much on the money with the Ion. It doesn't require the prep work like a coating does but I'm still looking for that clean bond to the paint. If I remember correctly it needs to cure for 4 hours and a QD or re wash is necessary to remove the dust that was attracted during the curing process.

Hopefully I can get my hands on a garage, don't think the canopy is going to be the tool for these jobs.

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[cardaddy]

Hey Mike! :)

First, in the whole truth and disclosure way of thinking.... I really LOVE 151! :dblthumb2: It'll work like crazy, and get a LOT of paints "coating ready" as far as how well it'll both correct and finish. That being said, I have a problem using it with a coating. It leaves a polymer based sealant, which is embedded in the paint with the action of your buffer, (more so than just wiping a sealant over the top) depending on how hard you're using that buffer. IMO, just using a pre-coating cleanser isn't going to be enough to safely remove all traces of that sealant.

Better yet to use 205, or if you need more cut, D300. I've gotten to where I used D300 a LOT! :props: On anything but soft paints it'll do LSP ready every time. Might try it with a white, or even an orange CCS (or flat) pad. FWIW I like the CCS pads for their ability to get right up to edges. (And the orange I use with D300 quite a bit.)

You can always run the first 4 or so passes with the orange pad, then take a lightly primed white or blue pad and do 3 more passes to finish it down. Works every time! :D

Of course you could also use Menz 1000, 1500 or 2000. ;)