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View Full Version : swirls wont come out. any ideas?



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wils91
06-26-2014, 07:30 AM
wow! thanks for the responses. I've learned a lot.

I won't be able to mess with it again until maybe Monday. But i'll give it a shot using the higher speed and working the machine differently.

Then if that still doesn't work, i'll try some different, more aggressive product.

another question.
If i'm not getting the swirls to come out am i doing anything to damage the clearcoat or paint, other than possibly instilling more swirling or marring?

refreshauto
06-26-2014, 09:37 AM
wow! thanks for the responses. I've learned a lot.

I won't be able to mess with it again until maybe Monday. But i'll give it a shot using the higher speed and working the machine differently.

Then if that still doesn't work, i'll try some different, more aggressive product.

another question.
If i'm not getting the swirls to come out am i doing anything to damage the clearcoat or paint, other than possibly instilling more swirling or marring?

you have all the proper tools needed, just have to get your technique down and you will be straight.

2old2change
06-26-2014, 09:45 AM
Where are you located ? Luck may have it that a member or two may be close to your location that can lend you a hand.

Tato
06-26-2014, 09:45 AM
If you are not removing swirls either they are too deep or you are barely doing any paint removal to get the job done.

If you are instilling marring, and swirls are coming out, odds are you're being more aggressive than necessary.

However, even if not removing swirls, you risk heating up the paint and leaving some damage from overheating. My best tip here is to touch the paint often to assess the amount of heat being generated in your process.

If it's 'damn hot' to the touch, stop and/or wait and/or move to another area.

To step up for a more aggressive product, I need to find the limit for the product I'm trying.

I mean: If I'm already using Swirl remover and orange pad, speed 6, LOTS of pressure, and I see it barely removing swirls, it's time to step up product.

With the coarser product, I'd start using speed lower than 6 (i.e: 5).

I'd prefer to use a coarser product with slow polisher speed than using a light product taking it to the limit and be struggling to remove anything. This will also likely generate more heat and can cause some damage like I've said above.

If you do a better technique with the pad flat, engaged, speed 6, slow arm speed, I'd even try to do a double pass instead of single pass.

That means: Go from left to right, them go back from right to left, over the same area. Now you go down 50% of your prior pass, and do the same, go to one side, go back over the same part, then go down 50% and keep doing it.

Repeat the process Up/down.

I count this approach as 2 passes, since you're literally passing twice over the work section. That said, one time side to side, and another up/down I count as 4 passes.

After doing this, I may either do at least on more time with same pressure and slow arm movement going over the same area (2 passes per line), and do the last 2 passes easing on pressure to finish out my section.

Please, this is not the best or only way to do it, I'm just giving food for your thoughts on troubleshooting strategies I may use to get the job done.

Remember, passing over the same section back and forth can increase heat, so assessing the surface with your hand is mandatory when doing this.

Hope that helps,

Kind Regards.

custmsprty
06-26-2014, 09:47 AM
ok cool. i'll try the higher speed next. i have already marked my plate. one of the first things i did when i got it.



I'm not really married to the Wolfgang brand. just something i bought to try more or less.

Menzerna FG400

DaveT435
06-26-2014, 10:40 AM
If it's not a technique problem as suggested above Meg's UC isn't stepping up much. I would go with Meg's 105 or 101. I've used both like the 101 better for work time and finish...

Scott@IncrediblyDetailed
06-26-2014, 02:29 PM
Menzerna FG400

This with a cutting pad. Speed 6, move the polisher an inch per second for the first 2 passes, then you can speed things up a little bit. Make sure to do 6 section passes and breakdown the abrasives completely so you don't have any compound haze. FG400 is LSP ready on most hard paint systems.

If you want do a test spot with a polishing pad and FG400 first to see if that gives you the desired results, if not try the cutting pad in a new test spot location. It's hit or miss if you'll need to use a finishing polish after FG400 and a cutting pad.

cardaddy
06-27-2014, 11:12 PM
If it's not a technique problem as suggested above Meg's UC isn't stepping up much. I would go with Meg's 105 or 101.
:iagree: with :whs::dblthumb2:

OTOH all this talk of Menzerna makes me want to buff something! :laughing:
Speaking of.... got the whole BOGO thing with the Menz Sealing Wax and really want to try that on something. (Which was going to be a black 5 Series this weekend, but it sprung a coolant leak and is in the shop for a week!) :rolleyes:

conman1395
06-28-2014, 12:29 AM
It's late and I'm about to go to bed (hopefully) so I didn't read anything but the first page.
My thought is this: I think your pad may be too heavy. If you're priming the pad, you could be making it too wet. Also, you may not be cleaning the pad enough. With my PC, I have to monitor the pressure AS WELL AS the amount of product/paint on the pad to make sure the pad spins.

wils91
07-10-2014, 11:20 PM
I'm back, with results...

I ended up ordering some FG400 and SI1500. I tried the 1500 and a white pad but it didn't seem to do anything. so i went straight to the 400 and an orange pad.

My lighting sucks in the garage, and its barely big enough to fit my truck in. so i'll have to take care of that eventually. I was using a led headlamp and some other various lights to see what i was doing.

I would say that i got 75% or better of the defects out. out in the sun i can see spots here and there but you really have to be looking for them.

I spent about 16 hours over two days. including washing and everything.

I didn't do a polish step, i didn't have the time, and i was zonked after staring at silver paint for so long, and using the PC. that baby gets heavy after a while. I'll eventually do some type of polish on it. the FG400 seemed to finish out pretty well though. well enough that i was quite happy with the results

afterwards I did wipe on some CG Blitz spray sealant with a CG MF applicator sponge and then machine applied a coat of Griots Best of Show. Tires and trim i used CG Silk Shine. never again. it streaked and ran badly after a little rain and made eveything i used it on look like crap. looked great after i put it on though.
I will also never use the Best of Show again.even with a light coat it was quite hard for me to buff off and there were spots i missed that i was cleaning off for a couple days afterwards. i would think i got them all and then i would see more the next day. going back to Collinite 845. love that stuff.

anyway, thanks for all of the helpful comments and instruction you guys gave me. it is very much appreciated.

here are some pics. i used my Ipotato 4 so they leave something to be desired.

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a534/wils91/IMG_0858_zpsd787656f.jpg (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/wils91/media/IMG_0858_zpsd787656f.jpg.html)
http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a534/wils91/IMG_0860_zps1eb5eed7.jpg (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/wils91/media/IMG_0860_zps1eb5eed7.jpg.html)