2009 BMW x6 jet black NEED HELP

[youdontknowme]

Have a problem here can't figure out. Wondering if anyone has suggestions. Have a 09 BMW x6 black. This thing is swirled out pretty good. But nothing seems to be doing anything. Tried m105 on rotary. Nothing. 105 on PC with lake county CCs cutting pads. Nothing. Is there something Iam missing here. I've tried differnt speeds different amount of passes etc. Any tips will help. Thanks

[eaglefan]

BMW jet black cars I have done that were in bad shape took 3 steps. Surbuf pad with 105, then Menz 2500 - then 4500. 1st step with a GG6, to me the Surf buf pads didn't like the flex. This is what worked for me. Not a fan of 105 but it worked me and the car. Small sections, slow and steady. But, each vehicle is different.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I have a pair of jet black e9x BMW's and I have found for me that Menzerna outperforms most others on MY BMW's as well as other German makes.

With that being said pick up some FG400 and SF4000 and give it another go.

[youdontknowme]

Thanks a million guys. Just placed an order as soon as it arrives. ROUND 2

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Thanks a million guys. Just placed an order as soon as it arrives. ROUND 2

:props:

Let us know how it goes.

[Eric M.]

Smack nailed it.. I've had great success with FG400 and LC Blue Hydro pads on BMW Jet black paint.

[antti@561detailing]

I also used menz 400 but flex not pc....pc took forever on bmw...also try mf cutting pads and work it really slow speed

[shadowman]

My fav combo for jet black D300 meg's mf pad and Menz 4000 lc white pad.

[swanicyouth]

I've never used 105, but just from what I've read - it's one of the most aggressive compounds out there. An alternative to trying another polish would be to try MF or wool pads. As, it seems to me you maxed out your polish on the "aggressive scale" - so maybe bump up your pads?

BMW "super soft" Jet Black... LoL.

[Christopher.Brown]

9.999/10 issues with paint can be boiled down to procedural rather than product...

I would say M105 with a Microfiber Cutting Disc or even Finishing Disc on the DA with medium pressure and slow arm speed (1 inch per second), coulped with 2 rotations of the backing plate per second should GREATLY improve results.....

There isnt a recipe for paint correction. What has worked for one person on a particluar paint may not work on another. There are almost an infinite number of variables to consider. Here's an example of a common reason why paints on the same vehicle may differ:


Take, for example, two of the exact model cars, say 5 years old, painted back to back in the same factory. Each of these vehicles finishes has the possibility to react in a completely different fashion to identical corrective steps. This could be because Car A was shipped to Arizona and was a primary daily driver, subject to being parked outside in the intensely hot desert sun. Also, year after year minimal paint maintenance was performed, allowing the elements to wear the clear coat dangerously thin. Whereas, Car B was shipped to southern California and was made into a weekend cruiser/garage queen and the owners hobby was to care for the paint every 3 months on the dot so the car remained flawless.

With this example, it is easy to understand how these two cars, painted within minutes of each other in the same factory, could have completely different paint characteristics when reacting to similar buffing processes. Therefore, it’s absolutely imperative to approach paint correction of these two vehicles with greatly differing approaches.

This doesnt even address other common issues such as resprayed panels, previous details, chemical products on the paint, coatings (dealership or aftermarket) etc etc...

So relying solely on a product to get work done is a risky proposition that wont necessarily translate into positive results. Considering the reasoning why a certain product or process isnt working can help to greater successes down the road.

:dblthumb2: