Mercedes Benz ceramiclear

[jerber1]

I have a 2007 E 350 with paint code C723(ceramiclear) Pewter Silver metallic. I have some slight swirl marks I would like to DA polish out. I was Thinking Blackfire Finishing polish with a blue polishing pad or orange pad. If that isnt enough I was thinking of black fire scratch resistant compound with and orange pad. Would any of these be too aggressive for a ceramiclear paint?

[swanicyouth]

These sound like good choices to me. You may wanna get a MF pad or two just in case defects are extra difficult in certain locations.

What machine?

[jerber1]

You dont think a MF would be TOO aggressive? Im usinh a Shurhold DA

[swanicyouth]

You dont think a MF would be TOO aggressive? Im usinh a Shurhold DA

You won't know until you try. But, if it's needed - it's best to have everything you need on hand than to be stuck saying "I wish I had THIS". From what I've READ - that paint can be pretty hard. A lot depends on your technique as well.

Nothing is worse to me - than to be doing a job (any job) - and not have that ONE thing that would just make it go easier.

[jerber1]

Your so right! The products I mentioned above dont seem too aggressive, do they?

[swanicyouth]

No. BF is top notch. Your method seems sound as well.

[Tato]

I'm working on C775 ceramiclear of a C280 Mercedes Benz. It's a silver color. It's hard paint (in the case I'm dealing with).

My first try was a gray finishing pad and Menzerna SF4000. Not enough.

I've stepped up to White Pad, SF4000, Not quite.

PF2500 on white pad, almost there, but too much work, too much pressure, too much speed.

Ended up using LC Orange Flat Pad (5.5") on 4 3/8 backing plate of a Flex 3401, paired with PF2500.

I was after an 1-step, ~85-90% of correction, the more, the better.

On shiny panels (hood, trunk lid), I ended up with a secondary step using Rupes 21, Rupes White Pad and SF4000. Honestly, improvement was ~3-5%, but worth the extra effort.

If you want the pics, just ask.

Best wishes, and good luck on your test spot.

[jerber1]

Yes , pics would be great. I figgure ill start with the finishing polish first, then step it up to the SRC with orange pad if needed. Just dont want to ruin the clear, you know

[Tato]

Yes, I know. I'll try to put pictures together on a Show'n'Shine Thread, but I'm only afraid the camera is not being able to capture the wonder my eyes are seeing. I'll let you know.

For you to don't ruin the clear, you should do a test like I did above. If you step up slowly until finding what is working to remove your swirls, you'll be fine.

Think about my reasonable: you start low, and if you are not removing any defect, you'll not be removing paint, thus not ruining anything at all.

When stepping up, you'll find a combination that will remove the defects, you'll be removing paint. However, if you 'dialed up the system correctly', it's likely you've found the 'least abrasive method' to tackle the job you pretend to do.

Using the least abrasive method to work will give you a large safety margin, added to the fact you'll be using a DA.

Don't worry.

I suggest for you to not let the polisher stationary over edges, and even when polishing an edge, be extra careful. Also, from time to time, touch the paint you're working on to 'figure out' if you are generating too much heat.

Just being aware you can mess something put you in advantage when dealing with Ceramiclear. However, (it was my first work on this paint), I've found it to be very polishable (yet hard!), and finishes beautiful.

It's a hard work, but results worth every moment invested in it.

Good luck,

Kind Regards.