Rotary Purchase

[Calendyr]

Ok so I went ahead tonight and purchased a DeWalt DWP849X electronic controlled Rotary Polisher.

The thing came with a 6" backing plate for polishing pads and 2 handles, a standard straight one and a D-Shaped one. I plan on using the D-Shaped handle on it.

So here are my questions, since this is my first Rotary.

1. This machine can use both 7" and 9" pads. Will I need a different backing plate for 9" pads?

2. I have some 7" Meguiar's pad that came with my Meguiar's DA. Can I use those on a rotary or is the foam different for DAs?

3. I need to purchase a wool pad for it. I believe I read somewhere that there are various types, some soft edged other hard edged. I will use this to polish new paint that was sanded. I tried compounding the 2000 grit scratches with my Rupes 21ES and a yellow pad but I am less than pleased with the result. So I want to use a wool pad to flatten the paint befoire going at it with the DA. SO... what wool pad should I get? Is there one that is really good compared to the others? Also do I need a backing plate for the pad or does it screw on directly to the shaft?

4. Finally. I will probably do the compounding step with the rotary in the future, so for use with products like M105, what foam pad would be best? And what size? Should I go 7" or 9"?

Thanks in advance!

[Kengo123]

1. You can use whatever pads can fit the backing plate. I have a cheap harbor freight 5" backing plate I like to use on my dewalt with full size 7/8/9" pads. It's just preference

2. You should be able to use whatever pad fits on there. If the pad is thinner than it might be harder to control and move smoothly. And I think those 7" Meg's pads are intended for a rotary

3. Hook and loop wool pads are just like every other hook and loop pad.. They don't already come with a "shaft. There are double sided pads though than require an adapter. There are usually light cutting synthetic wool blend pads and 100% heavy cutting wool pads. I like buff and shine, but I've used a few different brands and they all cut. Just remember to pick up a few

4. The bigger the rotary pad, the more the cut, supposedly. It's all preference. I like to use 6" pads and 7 or 8" pads

[Lakeside Detail]

I just bought a deWalt and I love it. So far I've done 3 boats with it and its a beast for sure. The stock backing plate will work perfect with the megs Cut N' Shine Wool Pad. Its a nice pad, good quality.

[Mike Phillips]

Ok so I went ahead tonight and purchased a DeWalt DWP849X electronic controlled Rotary Polisher.

The thing came with a 6" backing plate for polishing pads and 2 handles, a standard straight one and a D-Shaped one. I plan on using the D-Shaped handle on it.



Stick with the stick handle. The D-handle can look cool but the further you get your hand or grip away from the head of the polisher the more effort and energy you'll have to use to control the buffer.

I never use either handle. If you look, the head of the polisher has a rubber overmold, that's to make it easy for you to grip it with your hand.

I was one of the guys that gave DeWALT suggestions on feature to include on this model back about 4-5 years ago.





So here are my questions, since this is my first Rotary.

1. This machine can use both 7" and 9" pads. Will I need a different backing plate for 9" pads?




Yes. You can use small pads and go all the way up to the largest buffing pads you can find with this rotary buffer. I think you'll find smaller pads are easier to control.

I'd highly recommend getting and sticking with flexible backing plates. We offer a number of these on the AG store.






2. I have some 7" Meguiar's pad that came with my Meguiar's DA. Can I use those on a rotary or is the foam different for DAs?



Yes. 7" pads are a great size for a rotary buffer this size. They are too large for dual action polishers like the PC/Meguiar's/Griot's type polishers as the diameter is too large and the pad is too thick to be efficient at transferring the power from the tool to the surface of the paint. They work but as I aways say, when it comes to dual action polishers, thin is in.






3. I need to purchase a wool pad for it. I believe I read somewhere that there are various types, some soft edged other hard edged. I will use this to polish new paint that was sanded.

I tried compounding the 2000 grit scratches with my Rupes 21ES and a yellow pad but I am less than pleased with the result. So I want to use a wool pad to flatten the paint before going at it with the DA.




The fastest way to remove sanding marks is using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and a quality compound.

The question always gets asked,

"Can I remove sanding marks using a DA polisher?"


And the answer is yes but it will never be as fast or as efficient as using a rotary buffer with a wool pad.

I have a time lapse video where I sanded down and then buffed out all the way to machine waxing a 1964 Malibu and I did the entire project in 12 hours. I would never recommend anyone to try to do it this fast but I was under a tight schedule.

Point being, it would have take HOURS longer had I try to use anything other than a rotary buffer to cut out the sanding marks.






SO... what wool pad should I get? Is there one that is really good compared to the others? Also do I need a backing plate for the pad or does it screw on directly to the shaft?



Here's one we use a lot for our projects, it's called a polishing pad but here's the deal... wool fibers cut whether they are on a pad called a cutting pad or a pad called a polishing pad. The KEY is to use a high quality compound like Uber compound, FG400 or M100

7.5 inch Electrified White Sheepskin Final Polishing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/lc-wool-sheepskin-polishing-pad-7inch.html)


That's the one I'm using in this video...



How to wet sand a car




How to wet sand a car

If you don't have a steel pad cleaning spur get one and use it often, probably one of the most important things you can do when it comes to using a rotary buffer is to clean your pad often. I show how to use a spur in the above video.








4. Finally. I will probably do the compounding step with the rotary in the future, so for use with products like M105, what foam pad would be best? And what size? Should I go 7" or 9"?

Thanks in advance!

I'd stick with 7" foam pads and even wool pads. The bigger the pad the more muscle you'll need from your legs, back, shoulders and arms. My advice to anyone that's going to use a rotary buffer a lot is to join a gym and workout.


Keep in mind, foam cutting pads will generate a LOT of heat very fast when used on a rotary buffer with a compound. It's cooler for the paint to cut with wool and then clean up your WOOL FIBER holograms using a foam polishing pad.


We didn't sand this Ferrari down but it arrived with horrible finish. I cut it with the wool pad I recommended above on a Flex PE14 Rotary Buffer with Uber Compound and Frank followed me with the Flex 3401 with a Black Hybrid pad and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze and then we machine waxed it with Wolfgang Fuzion.

That's three machine steps to get this type of finish with zero holograms or burn-throughs.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77095


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/watermark.php?file=77097



Congratulations on your first rotary buffer.


:dblthumb2:

[HUMP DIESEL]

Congrats on a great purchase. I will not post pics of my Dewalt, because it looks horrible. Years of use and one large aluminum polishing job and it is nasty, but it runs like a champ and I love the way the trigger can be modulated to go really slow when needed. The heft is also nice, because in the polishing stages, you can let the weight of this machine do the work and you just guide it. Very nice.

HUMP

[Calendyr]

Thanks for all the advice. I am eager to try this tool. Will have to wait for the pads to come in ;(

Gonna have to remove the D-Handle then. I don't use handles on my DAs but I thought on a rotary it was necessary. I think I will start with the straight handle until I am comfortable with the tool then remove it. I feel like it will be harder to control without the handle, maybe I am wrong.

I did some research before purchasing and this looked like an amazing machine. I really like the fact that the speed control shows actual RPMs instead of numbers from 1 to 6. I don't know why all companies don't do this. Even on DAs it would be nice to see the OPM rating.

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I'd second removing the handle and here's why... Uneven pressure applied to the head of the polisher is the most significant thing that can make the polisher "walk away" on the paint and when you use the straight handle fatigue sets into your forearm after an extended polishing session causing you to inadvertently apply downward pressure improperly onto the handle. You end up working a lot harder to control the machine and you are already tired at this point to begin with.

If the pad is centered properly and you apply downward pressure right over the head of the machine you can pretty much just support the back of the machine with the "trigger hand" and let the polisher do the hard work. I would consider myself intermediate skill level at best on the rotary, but this was probably the best tip I got when starting off with one (other than the obvious of protecting those edges and raised body lines).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Calendyr]

I'd second removing the handle and here's why... Uneven pressure applied to the head of the polisher is the most significant thing that can make the polisher "walk away" on the paint and when you use the straight handle fatigue sets into your forearm after an extended polishing session causing you to inadvertently apply downward pressure improperly onto the handle. You end up working a lot harder to control the machine and you are already tired at this point to begin with.

If the pad is centered properly and you apply downward pressure right over the head of the machine you can pretty much just support the back of the machine with the "trigger hand" and let the polisher do the hard work. I would consider myself intermediate skill level at best on the rotary, but this was probably the best tip I got when starting off with one (other than the obvious of protecting those edges and raised body lines).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ok, makes sense. I guess I will go handleless :)

[Kengo123]

I'd second removing the handle and here's why... Uneven pressure applied to the head of the polisher is the most significant thing that can make the polisher "walk away" on the paint and when you use the straight handle fatigue sets into your forearm after an extended polishing session causing you to inadvertently apply downward pressure improperly onto the handle. You end up working a lot harder to control the machine and you are already tired at this point to begin with.

If the pad is centered properly and you apply downward pressure right over the head of the machine you can pretty much just support the back of the machine with the "trigger hand" and let the polisher do the hard work. I would consider myself intermediate skill level at best on the rotary, but this was probably the best tip I got when starting off with one (other than the obvious of protecting those edges and raised body lines).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yup! Remove the handle and it'll be much smoother. There shouldn't be any movement really at the head of the polisher, so you grip the head of it just to guide it and keep it from flying out of your hands.

You can literally control the polisher with one hand on the trigger grip on flat panels. And its so much more of an art polishing with a rotary than a da, because you have to feel the car and basically get into the groove with it. With a traditional da, all youre really doing is focusing on going slow and putting even pressure to the car

[Mike Phillips]

Don't get rid of the stick handle.

The benefit to the stick handle is you can quickly move it from side to side, can't say that about the D-handle as you have to get out an allen wrench to unbolt it.

Sometimes a stick handle can come in handy so at least keep it in a drawer in case you want to use it but toss the D-handle.

Also, when buffing really hard, like doing some major chopping on an oxidized boat this tool will get hot enough that it's hard to put your hand on the body of the tool. Another reason sometimes you might need the stick handle.


When we did this 24' Pro-Line, at the time the picture below was taken this DeWALT was hotter than heck as I was cutting hard on this boat. In hindsight, we should have simply wet sanded the hull and been done with it.



This is how you lean into the buffer....

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/522/2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_03 1a.jpg


DeWALT 849X sans handle and grabbing the rubber overmold on the head of the unit and the pushing down hard...

http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/522/2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_03 2a.jpg


24' Pro-Line Boat - Extreme Marine Makeover - Oxidation Removal! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/69784-24-pro-line-boat-extreme-marine-makeover.html)


:xyxthumbs: