Megs 105 and 205 vs optimum polish II

[frankprozzoly]

105 And 205 are drying in just 2 passes. I'm priming the foam pad properly. Im indoors. Don't know what I'm doing wrong. So I saw the junkman use optimum polish. Looks like it can be worked much longer. I bought the compound, polish and the finishing polish and I got megs microfiber pads. Car is new. No swirls just light scratches on a new black accord. Any suggestions

[Evan.J]

M105 will need to be sprayed half way through to reactivity it. You can just use distilled water for that. Another thing you can do is use a few drops of M205 with M105 to add more oils to help increase the work time.

For M205 what machine pad speed and pressure are you using?

There are plenty of oils in M205 and it should not be drying up in 2 second passes.

[Tato]

My recommendation is for you to spread product evenly over surface before working it, and / or condition your pad like suggested before using it.

Get a new/clean pad, spin it on machine for 2 - 3 seconds while brushing it (or until you are sure it's clean).

Spray the face of the pad with 1 or 2 fine mists of QD or pad conditioning spray, rotate it on machine for 2-3 seconds using a MF towel on face of pad to spread QD evenly while drying the excess.

After that, press the pad with palm of your hand using the MF towel for 2 - 3 times, compressing and releasing.

This time, your pad may feel softer than when you first grab it. No?

Select a product, although M105 may (or may not) need water mist, but you are relating the same problem with M205, I'd select it for you to follow.

SHAKE the bottle.

Add 4 dime size drops (one on each quarter) to the edges of the pad (not on border, on pad's face, closer to the edges).

Select a surface to work NOT larger than 16x24 (size of a MF rectangular towel).

With machine still OFF, Dab the polisher in 5-6 parts of your work area, (my first dab is in the middle of work section), trying to deposit even quantity of product over the area you'll work. (don't go crazy here, 4-6 dabs).

Position the polisher on the start of your work area. With speed set on 1-3, do ONE somewhat fast section pass, from start to end of section overlapping each pass 50%, without ANY pressure. Turn machine off.

This time, you may have spread a film of product which you'll work over.

Set polisher speed to 5, position the polisher on start of work area, add medium pressure to it's head and turn it on.

Start doing your passes moving the polisher slowly, and go side-to-side, back overlapping 50% of last pass, then up down the same way.

Each time you go side-to-side covering whole work area once, is 1 section pass. When you go up/down the whole area again, that's another section pass. Do between 3-5 passes while working this product.

Depending on situation, you may adapt the pass:

- More / Less pressure
- More / Less arm Speed
- More / Less product quantity
- More / Less size of work area

In some cases, you may do the first 3 passes using firm pressure to engage (firm is not heavy), and let the weight of the polisher work for the last few 2 passes. It's not something you may do always, but depending on situation, you may try to adjust the variables in an effort to 'fine tune' your polishing.

Is the above the best way, right way, or only way to do it? Absolutely NO. There are many ways to do it.

If you try to figure, it's harder to right about it than actually doing it. You see..

I just described one simple follow up that may allow you to polish one section and try to, ultimately, find if your product may be compromised.

However, I found important to define a 'standard' polishing procedure to my use and then fine tune from there. If I can use this without any issue, I'm pretty sure you may be able to reproduce it.

This will not guarantee you'll remove swirls and scratches, only that you may be able to do 3-5 section passes without facing the issues you're relating.

If something won't happen as expected, it's easy to play with variables to adjust (sometimes on the fly) from standard start.


Idea above is to give you weapons to add to your own arsenal, and try to move from there. Develop your way of doing, which will be the best way, for you.

Kind Regards.

[Ckundred]

I dusted off my PC last weekend and used the M105 and M205. I had the same issue with the 105, it dried up very quickly. I did as what others suggested and shortened up the area in which I work and gave it a quick spray of water...This helped a bit. Didn't have any issues with the 205. I used the orange hex pad with the 105 and the white hex with the 205 and did it in my garage on a 70 degree day here in Northern California.

The car ended up looking good but took a lot of time. I'll be curious to hear how the Optimum works for you.

[HateSwirls]

105 And 205 are drying in just 2 passes. I'm priming the foam pad properly. Im indoors. Don't know what I'm doing wrong. So I saw the junkman use optimum polish. Looks like it can be worked much longer. I bought the compound, polish and the finishing polish and I got megs microfiber pads. Car is new. No swirls just light scratches on a new black accord. Any suggestions

When working with 105 make sure to work small areas , like 16x16 or less.
As for 205 I don't have any problem using it, in fact it's my go too polish.

Optimum Fine Polish and be worked as long as you wish, I love using it for that reason using a black Lake Country finishng pad, the flat one.
Really makes your paint pop like no other:dblthumb2:

[frankprozzoly]

I used a hex logic orange for 105 and white for 205. I sprayed gary deans almost every time I started another pass. I don't use much pressure If you start pushing down on the poter cable it seems to stop spinning quickly. gonna try the microfiber pads because the foam isn't getting the scratches out. I'm either not working product long enough or the scratches are deeper than I think. They shouldn't be. Car is new.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online

[frankprozzoly]

Also read that Honda uses soft paint. I've read to use green and blue pad

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online