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jasondowning85
05-20-2014, 10:26 AM
Question for Mike or anyone else who might know the answer.

I've noticed in some of your videos, you're a big advocate of priming the pad before first use. Without going back and watching the videos, I remember you doing this with a DA. On some of the more recent videos I've watched, a rotary is being used and you just dive right in. You're using the 10 at 10 technique you always talk about, but when you lift up the pad, it looks as though 25-50% of the pad has dry spots.

Is there a reason for this or could it just be that these pads were not necessarily brand new?

Thanks

jamesboyy
05-20-2014, 11:31 AM
Welcome to autogeek as for your question the pad looks dry in certain spots after cause the product has absorbed into the pad to revive that absorbed product just spray one or two sprays of detail spray then dap it three or four times on your work area then you have a little bit more you can use without going back to bottle so soon

jasondowning85
05-20-2014, 11:45 AM
thanks for the reponse. I guess I need to be a bit more clear.

It doesn't just look dry, it looks like the product hasn't made contact with part of the pad.

I've used a PC7424 for a few years now and no matter how much the product is worked, there is still residue of product completely covering the pad which is what I would expect, but in some of the demonstrations Mike does, it almost looks like product hasn't touched certain parts of the pad. That being said, I know if you keep the pad flat and spread the product around, there's no way that product isn't making contact with every part of the pad.

Ultimately, I'm just wondering if it's best practice to prime the pad with product no matter what kind of polisher (DA/rotary) and pad (wool/foam) you're using.

Thanks.

jamesboyy
05-20-2014, 02:50 PM
Yes its best to practice prime the pad before use whether its a da or rotary or old or new