Yet another Collinite 845 question thread

[TrolleyVW]

I've done a ton of searching and reading about collinite 845 on many different forums as, well, there's so many of them.

I've used it a hand full of times on my dark blue Jetta and I always apply it thin. This enough to where, in regular garage lighting, I can barely see if it's on or not without looking at it from different angles.

I have always applied by hand because I was too afraid of applying it too thick via machine. After reading so much about success with applying by machine, I may want to try it.

I understand the concept of applying thin but I feel sometimes as though I am applying too thin.

Recently I applied it at about 4pm in western New York on a humid yet sunny day, drove, and parked outside all night. The next day, it did not rain until later in the afternoon, around 3-4. 24 hours seemed long enough for it to cure but would the overnight outdoor parking affect the curing?

When actually applying, should I see a dark oily look to it and add more to my applicator as the darkness dissaptes? Or continue applying and working it basically guessing if it's actually covering?

I know I'd get many different answers as to how long after application to remove, anywhere from after every panel to leaving it for hours and then removing. I just want the most durability (sheeting and beading) out of this stuff that seems to work really well but only for a week at very most.

I rinseless wash a few times a week with UWW. I try to let it cure as long as possible (24 hrs) before I expose it to moisture but I rarely have access to a garage over night.

So basically, when applying and removing, is there anything I'm missing? And is the moisture in the air/overnight parking the culprit in my lack of durability?

[UglyBetty]

It definitely lasts more than a week.

Ever clay bar or polish your car? Not trying to ask a stupid question, just asking because of the lack of background in your post.

[wdmaccord]

I start removing 30-45 minutes after I finish the last panel. I remove in the order I applied, so all in total, it probably sits for at least an hour from application to removal. Comes off real easy unless I get it on too thick.

[Saturnhusker]

What ever you do don't use the microwave to heat it up cause it will ruin it. It was pretty cold and windy day and I couldn't keep it from hardening. So I nuked it and when it rained I noticed it didn't bead up. So lesson learned. But it is a great wax.

[TrolleyVW]

It definitely lasts more than a week.

Ever clay bar or polish your car? Not trying to ask a stupid question, just asking because of the lack of background in your post.

I've clayed within the last month, tar and iron X'd, and polished with full eraser wipedown. That's why it's so puzzling.

[runrun411]

No matter how you apply it, you will get great durability. It would also be a great idea to apply a 2nd coat after the 1st on cures.

845 is the absolute truth.

[Setec Astronomy]

It sounds like you're not putting enough on. You should see more than an oily appearance on the surface during application, it should be a wet film. Also, IMO 845 doesn't need to "cure" after wipeoff, or really even need to dry before wipeoff, you should still get more than a week of beading.

Perhaps your waterless wash technique has something to do with this also? Of course UWW should be giving you some beading also.

[bugeye]

I usually apply 845 with a white CCS pad on the DA. It leaves an oily appearance, but disappears soon. With the DA, it is easy to apply thin. I start wiping off after covering the total car. I get 6 months outside 24/7

[Desertnate]

How well did you shake the bottle?

This Spring when I applied it to one of my cars, I didn't shake it very well before applying it to the first section of my car. A week later when washing my car I noticed the entire car beaded like crazy...EXCEPT for that first section. After a re-do of the area it now performs as well as the rest of the car.

When applying with a DA it does looks oily to me, but an even oily coating over the entire section, not like a smear. If it looks patchy and smeared, you may not be putting enough down.

[KenR]

How well did you shake the bottle?

This Spring when I applied it to one of my cars, I didn't shake it very well before applying it to the first section of my car. A week later when washing my car I noticed the entire car beaded like crazy...EXCEPT for that first section. After a re-do of the area it now performs as well as the rest of the car.

When applying with a DA it does looks oily to me, but an even oily coating over the entire section, not like a smear. If it looks patchy and smeared, you may not be putting enough down.
Agreed. There was a thread a couple of years back mentioning the need to shake the bottle for a good while to mix it properly. Someone also posted a picture showing him immersing the bottle in hot water prior to shaking to help with the process.

[Desertnate]

Agreed. There was a thread a couple of years back mentioning the need to shake the bottle for a good while to mix it properly. Someone also posted a picture showing him immersing the bottle in hot water prior to shaking to help with the process.

I'm sure the hot water thing works well, but I've found sitting it out in direct sunlight on days near 70 degrees works really well too. I sit it out while polishing and by the time I'm ready for wax it's ready.

[hudson2302]

I'm a first time user of 845.
When I first received it, it looked like beeswax inside the bottle. But then I read this thread
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
The consistency of the wax was liquid. Nick explains that shaking the bottle is key. I must have shaken the bottle for 15 min until it became liquid. After that application and end results were as expected.
So make sure the contents of the bottle are as liquid as possible

[KenR]

Yes. That's the thread I was talking about in my previous post.

[Jaretr1]

A few gurus in this industry have said that if you are putting ANY wax on the surface of the paint, you are putting enough. Science dictates that you cannot put to little, and anything more than enough is wasted product.

I prefer to apply 845 with a machine because it allows me to ensure I am getting a nice even THIN coat on the car. This wax really does need to go on thin because otherwise it will streak and be hard to remove. Thin coats come off in a breeze and leave no streaks. A few drops on a finishing pad are enough for an entire panel. I use this wax on my dads car because I want durability since I dont touch his car often and it does last 6 months. It is quite amazing.

Also, like someone mentioned, this wax needs to be "warmed" in the bottle to make sure you can shake it and get it all mixed together. Down here in South Florida, just putting it out in the sun for a few minutes does the trick.

[Klasse Act]

Leaving it out in the warm sun and/or in a bowl of warm/hot water loosens it up for sure, but shaking is very important. Love #845, ease of liquid, performs like a paste, comes off like a dream!!!

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