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mikesal57
05-15-2014, 09:36 AM
Hi All...

I'm kinda scared to wet sand my car...

These are a few of rock chips with excess touch-up paint on them..

On a scale of 1-10..How difficult would it be for a first timer?

If I can...steps please

Thxs

jms493
05-15-2014, 09:41 AM
I did it on my Bonnet of my old Jeep and it was fine just use plenty of water. Do a small inconspicuous spot first to see how it comes out. I would say 2000 to 2500 to 3000. Compound out using DA the polish. It is really easy to get out those scratches with a DA.

Check out the multiple articles and videos by Mike and others on the procedure.

jms493
05-15-2014, 09:42 AM
picture...right has been wetsanded and compounded. Paint is a disaster and it needs repainted but I use this Jeep as my practice/test vehicle.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/14081373112_9d94dc0194_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nsjHD3)jeep hood (https://flic.kr/p/nsjHD3) by jms493 (https://www.flickr.com/people/77435730@N08/), on Flickr

mikesal57
05-15-2014, 10:09 AM
Thxs Guys...

just ordered the Meguiars Sand Paper Kit...2000-2500-3000

on polishing it afterwards...

Meg 105 on orange & then 205 on white

or just the 205?

Mike

Mike Phillips
05-15-2014, 10:16 AM
Thxs Guys...

just ordered the Meguiars Sand Paper Kit...2000-2500-3000

on polishing it afterwards...

Meg 105 on orange & then 205 on white

or just the 205?

Mike



You'll need the M105 compound to remove your sanding marks.



:)

Mike Phillips
05-15-2014, 10:19 AM
This topic came up here yesterday,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/80414-how-fix-bad-old-paint-repair.html


Here's what I posted....


Most people have really high expectations for rock chip repair. The expect that when looking directly down on the hood where the rock chips are to be able to make it look like nothing ever happened. As in no chips and no repair.

This can be done but it requires some time, skill, knowledge and the right products.

You can make rock chip repair as simple or as complex as you want but for most people, more and more work doesn't always mean better and better results.

The first thing to remember is less is more, that is put less touch up paint into the chip so you don't go from a sub-surface crater to a blob sticking out on top of the paint.

If you have the blob, then a couple of things you can do...



Sand the blob flat to be even with the surface of the surrounding paint.
Remove your sanding marks.
Re-seal the paint with wax, sealant or coating.
Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...

1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip.

Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.


2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove.

ve your sanding marks out 100%

It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

Try to finish sand with #3000 or #5000 before buffing.


Also, if you don't have a rotary buffer you can remove sanding marks by hand but this usually requires more skill than working by hand.



Avoid heating up the touch-up paint and underlying and surround panel and paint. Take your time.


:)

jms493
05-15-2014, 10:20 AM
On my Jeep I found that Meguirs Compound (OTC) was easier to remove then the M105. I am not sure why as they are supposed to be the same product.

Mike Phillips
05-15-2014, 10:39 AM
On my Jeep I found that Meguiars Compound (OTC) was easier to remove then the M105.


I am not sure why as they are supposed to be the same product.





Who told you they were the same product. I don't believe they are the exact same product. They probably are very similar and share similar technology but here's the deal....

M105 is formulated and sold into the PROFESSIONAL market. By definition, Professionals use products like M105 for a living and SHOULD have a higher skill level than Joe Consumer.


Joe Consumer on the other hand MIGHT wash and wax his car once or twice a year. The "marketing people" at companies like Meguiar's KNOW THIS and make consumer grade products a lot more Bubba-Proof.

Be careful what you read or who you listen to when someone tells you something like M105 is the same as Ultimate compound.

Same category, that is "Aggressive Compounds" but not the exact same formula for the reasons I pointed out above and even a few other good reasons.



:dunno:

jms493
05-15-2014, 10:53 AM
Who told you they were the same product. I don't believe they are the exact same product. They probably are very similar and share similar technology but here's the deal....

M105 is formulated and sold into the PROFESSIONAL market. By definition, Professionals use products like M105 for a living and SHOULD have a higher skill level than Joe Consumer.


Joe Consumer on the other hand MIGHT wash and wax his car once or twice a year. The "marketing people" at companies like Meguiar's KNOW THIS and make consumer grade products a lot more Bubba-Proof.

Be careful what you read or who you listen to when someone tells you something like M105 is the same as Ultimate compound.

Same category, that is "Aggressive Compounds" but not the exact same formula for the reasons I pointed out above and even a few other good reasons.



:dunno:


Thanks Mike! I found out first hand that they were different. The UC was much easier for me to use. (Weekend Warrior)

mikesal57
05-15-2014, 11:16 AM
much appreciated comments :xyxthumbs:

c8n
05-15-2014, 12:02 PM
Make sure you clean the area with some IPA solution before applying touch up paint. If there is any wax in there, the touch up paint will pull right out.... at least it did for me.

DetailKitty
05-15-2014, 01:26 PM
Subscribed.

Let us know how you make out... I want to take this leap of faith at some point.

mikesal57
05-16-2014, 07:22 AM
Subscribed.

Let us know how you make out... I want to take this leap of faith at some point.


Kitty..I'm off a work next Tues for a week..

Will build up the nerve..lol

There are plenty of You Tube videos on wet sanding..

alot uses "by hand" technique...2000 grit, compound and polish

maybe thats the the course for me

Mike

(after that , Is to clean engine bay..nerve issue too)

DetailKitty
05-16-2014, 08:28 AM
Kitty..I'm off a work next Tues for a week..

Will build up the nerve..lol

There are plenty of You Tube videos on wet sanding..

alot uses "by hand" technique...2000 grit, compound and polish

maybe thats the the course for me

Mike

(after that , Is to clean engine bay..nerve issue too)

I think you will be fine... and the hand method would be my choice as well.

I am with you 100% on the engine bay. I do clean mine, but I just wipe it down, I've never sprayed or done anything like that under the bonnet.
My car is half English and half German... that's an electrical nightmare waiting to happen and I don't want to provide the catalyst :laughing:

TundraPower
05-16-2014, 09:39 AM
Are you wet sanding using a machine or by hand? If you've never wet sanded I would start with 5000 grit.