Used the UDM for the first time this weekend...

[Cobra04]

So on saturday we had a show to go to, @ 1pm. So I was out starting to wash the cobra by about 6:30. Washed it, used bug and tar remover on a few spots along with megs body solvent on the entire car to strip any old wax/sealent. Then clayed it with DP clay(Which imo is a very good clay) then washed again. By the time I finished all this and pulled the cobra over infront of the garage to finaly start the polishing it was 11:30 :mad: So I said the hell with it I gotta atleast do some of the car. So when i finaly got all my polishes out/UDM setup it was 12. Polished the top of the trunk with an orange pad and xmt #3 on speed 5, dont think I let it break down long enough, but let me say when I whiped off the polish i was amazed! It took out soooo many swirls, there were still a few heavier looking ones left but it looked much better. The white pad and xmt #1 didnt do much for these.....but again I dont think I let it fully break down:o :o

Now, this being my first time and being a bit rushed I dont think I let the #3 break down fully, cuz I was a little scared of messing the paint up at first. I didnt expect the UDM to be quite as loud and vibrate as much as it did, which i shortly figured out was due in part to having the handle on it, it works much better for me without that thing. As I used it a bit more I started to get more comfortable with it. Just at first seemed like it could really ravage the paint:o


I also think i might of used a little too much polish and I surely wasnt doing a 2x2 area, which is impossible on a trunk anyway... I was doing half the trunk at a time, does this sound close enough to 2x2?

If the pad isnt centered will it make the thing vibrate alot more and be more of a pain to use?

How do you guys do for hoods or any other areas that you cant polish in perfect 2x2ft sections? Would doing a 1x4 section be fine/equivalent since its the same area?


I know if I could have really taken my time I could of really done a nice job, was just starting to get a little used to it when I had to stop. So im setting aside a good 12 hours this weekend I think to do a full polish on it, really take my time. Ill take before and after then aswell;)


Also, to burn through the clear or something, would you really have to let this thing sit on one spot for awhile? For correcting pretty bad swirls with the orange pad and xmt #3 how slow should I go? Like 1 inch a second? Or is that too slow? As long as im moving, the UDM cant burn through the paint right?

Thanks:)

[lgtspecb]

Finding out when the product is worked in all the way is the toughest thing for me and after several rounds with my pc I still don't have a good grasp on it. The PC and UDM are designed to prevent burning the paint, even if you let it sit in one spot for a couple seconds with some pressure you are not going to get below the clear. I usually do the trunk in halves and the hood and roof in 4 sections each. 1" per second sounds right, you might want to put a little bit of pressure on it for the first few passes.

But my advice may be ill-advised, I have read every polishing howto, have retained all the information and can discuss it with others, but when it actually comes down to the act of polishing I am still very much a newb as I demonstrated this weekend.

[budman3]

So on saturday we had a show to go to, @ 1pm. So I was out starting to wash the cobra by about 6:30. Washed it, used bug and tar remover on a few spots along with megs body solvent on the entire car to strip any old wax/sealent. Then clayed it with DP clay(Which imo is a very good clay) then washed again. By the time I finished all this and pulled the cobra over infront of the garage to finaly start the polishing it was 11:30 :mad: So I said the hell with it I gotta atleast do some of the car. So when i finaly got all my polishes out/UDM setup it was 12. Polished the top of the trunk with an orange pad and xmt #3 on speed 5, dont think I let it break down long enough, but let me say when I whiped off the polish i was amazed! It took out soooo many swirls, there were still a few heavier looking ones left but it looked much better. The white pad and xmt #1 didnt do much for these.....but again I dont think I let it fully break down:o :o

Ya the XMT3 and orange pad should be a good combo to fight the swirls. XMT1 is very very light so don't expect it to do much more than clean the paint.

Now, this being my first time and being a bit rushed I dont think I let the #3 break down fully, cuz I was a little scared of messing the paint up at first. I didnt expect the UDM to be quite as loud and vibrate as much as it did, which i shortly figured out was due in part to having the handle on it, it works much better for me without that thing. As I used it a bit more I started to get more comfortable with it. Just at first seemed like it could really ravage the paint:o

Just like everything else there is a learning curve. It is hard to tell whether you worked it in too long or not. A good rule of thumb is that polishes are ready to be removed when they go translucent.

I also think i might of used a little too much polish and I surely wasnt doing a 2x2 area, which is impossible on a trunk anyway... I was doing half the trunk at a time, does this sound close enough to 2x2?

1/2 the trunk is fine for a panel. How much prodcut did you use? If you did use a lot, then that would also explain why you didn't break it down long enough. The more the polish, the more to break down. Once the pad is primed you shouldn't need more than 2-3 dime size drops of polish on the pad.

If the pad isnt centered will it make the thing vibrate alot more and be more of a pain to use?

Yes. Big time. Try your best and get them centered. The UDM and your hands will thank you. Mind you not all of the vibrations will go away but having the pads off will throw the machine off kilter.

How do you guys do for hoods or any other areas that you cant polish in perfect 2x2ft sections? Would doing a 1x4 section be fine/equivalent since its the same area?

I usually divide the hood in half or in thirds. On a mustang I would do the passenger side, the middle where the hood scoop is and then the drivers side = 3 sections. Once you get the hang of things you won't need to worry about exact sizes.


I know if I could have really taken my time I could of really done a nice job, was just starting to get a little used to it when I had to stop. So im setting aside a good 12 hours this weekend I think to do a full polish on it, really take my time. Ill take before and after then aswell;)

The practice that you did this weekend will pay huge dividends the next time you polish. It on;y gets better from here. Remember to keep the machine moving slowly and do overlapping passes. Apply a little pressure but not too much. Do not be afraid of speed 6 either. Do passes from side to side, up and down, and corner to corner, repeat until polish is broken down.

Also, to burn through the clear or something, would you really have to let this thing sit on one spot for awhile? For correcting pretty bad swirls with the orange pad and xmt #3 how slow should I go? Like 1 inch a second? Or is that too slow? As long as im moving, the UDM cant burn through the paint right?

Don't worry about burning the paint with the UDM. Nearly impossible. As long as you keep the pad moving (1 inch p/s is OK) you'll be fine. Remember that curved body panels and edges have the least amount of paint (maybe plastic bumpers as well) and those are the only areas that you should keep in mind if you decide to get really aggressive (XMT3 isn't aggressive ;) ).
Thanks:)
You're welcome. Hope this wasn't too confusing for you. Good luck.

[ScottB]

I tried the UDM this weekend with three different AIO's (Optimum, Zaino, XMT 360). Unfortunately I lost a ball bearing in my Edge adapter and could no longer flip pads as easily. It is amazing at how far AIO's have come ... and that I kinda felt like I was cheating on my buddie the PC.

[bill walsh]

I Have Read That The Udm Is Being Upgraded For Power Switch Is This True?

[dengood1]

I hope so, because that's why I've refrained from buying one at the moment. Seems that is a big complaint of users.

[budman3]

It is a problem but its also supposed to be an easy fix. I think they may be sending out a piece of felt or something that can be added to the mechanism to add some friction.

[diapers587]

I tried the UDM this weekend with three different AIO's (Optimum, Zaino, XMT 360). Unfortunately I lost a ball bearing in my Edge adapter and could no longer flip pads as easily. It is amazing at how far AIO's have come ... and that I kinda felt like I was cheating on my buddie the PC.


JUST CURIOUS WHAT YOUR DETAILED ANALYSIS OF XMT 360 WAS...I JUST PURCHASED IT FOR MY BLACK TRUCK BECAUSE I WAS TRYING TO SAVE MONEY WITH AN AIO PRODUCT BUT I'M WORRIED I NEEDED TO BUY #3, #2, #1 THEN A GLAZE TO EFFECTIVELY GET THE SWIRLS OUT! Mmmm

[richy]

JUST CURIOUS WHAT YOUR DETAILED ANALYSIS OF XMT 360 WAS...I JUST PURCHASED IT FOR MY BLACK TRUCK BECAUSE I WAS TRYING TO SAVE MONEY WITH AN AIO PRODUCT BUT I'M WORRIED I NEEDED TO BUY #3, #2, #1 THEN A GLAZE TO EFFECTIVELY GET THE SWIRLS OUT! Mmmm

Glaze just hides imperfections when used at the wrong time. XMT360 is a good product that is versatile depending on what pad you use. Personally, I like to use it on metallics after rotary polishing...really makes the flakes pop. You will not need a glaze after the 360 but you may use it twice depending on what pads you use; ie, if you use it with an orange pad for correction, follow it up with a black or blue pad for jewelling the paint.

[ScottB]

Richy has this one covered, and quite a reasonable explanation too. Polishing is a specific task and one that cannot be duplicated with an AIO specifically. That said, an AIO is a reasonable substitution in some situations and XMT360 is very versatile especially when buffer and pads are used versus hand.