PDA

View Full Version : So let me get this straight...



phish
05-12-2014, 04:13 PM
Just want to make sure I've got this right.

1) Wash w/ 2 bucket method. Use dawn to strip old wax?
2) Clay bar w/ soap/ h2o
3) Repair paint scratches/ chips. (sand then apply touch up paint?)
4) Dry overnight
5) Sand the paint repair area
6) Swirl remover (wolfgang swirl remover 3.0 and CCS orange light cutting pad)
7) Finishing glaze (wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0 and CCS gray finishing pad)
8) Seal (chemical guys jet seal and CCS gray finishing pad)


Feed back please

Thanks ya'll,

Phish

hernandez.art13
05-12-2014, 04:22 PM
yes and no IMO

Evan.J
05-12-2014, 04:26 PM
Welcome the forum!

1. Dawn doesn't strip old wax. It leaves behind a film that doesn't bead but after some time the beading and sheeting will return.

2. You will want to wait more than 24 hours for the touch up paint to dry and a few application would be a good idea. You want to build up some layers of paint. You want the paint to be about the level if the clear coat so that you can sand down the paint to make it level.

3. If you are using a clay bar the soap and water will be ok but not the best option but that's my opinion

4. This is the most important..... Do a Test Spot!!!!
You might not need to go aggressive so let your cars paint tell you what it needs. No need to remove healthy clear coat if it's not needed.

From there you look fine.

thebamboo23
05-12-2014, 04:27 PM
3-4 is a lot more in depth work

1) wash; 2bm, rinseless, waterless,
2) clay; mitt, bar, pad
3) compound; heavy or medium cut pad depending on clear coat
4) polish; medium or finishing pad depending on clear coat
5) seal; wax, sealant, coating

jamesboyy
05-12-2014, 04:29 PM
Your plan of attack looks great especially if your on a buget though you could use chemical guys citrus wash a clear for the stripping process and use a deticated quick detailer for the claying process as for the touch up paint part I would apply a little bit of wax to the damage area after lightly sanding the bare metal then wipe the bare metal with rubbing alcohol then apply then apply three coats of color and three coats of clear coat with 15 mins in between each coat then once fully dried level the repair flush with the surrounding paint and polish to high shine

phish
05-12-2014, 04:34 PM
Welcome the forum!

1. Dawn doesn't strip old wax. It leaves behind a film that doesn't bead but after some time the beading and sheeting will return.

2. You will want to wait more than 24 hours for the touch up paint to dry and a few application would be a good idea. You want to build up some layers of paint. You want the paint to be about the level if the clear coat so that you can sand down the paint to make it level.

3. If you are using a clay bar the soap and water will be ok but not the best option but that's my opinion

4. This is the most important..... Do a Test Spot!!!!
You might not need to go aggressive so let your cars paint tell you what it needs. No need to remove healthy clear coat if it's not needed.

From there you look fine.

So build up several layers of paint and sand in between? Then clear coat then sand then polish?

Forgot to add test spot! Thanks for reminding me.

I think I'll go with the detailing spray for the clay after looking into it a little more.

Evan.J
05-12-2014, 04:42 PM
So build up several layers of paint and sand in between? Then clear coat then sand then polish?

Forgot to add test spot! Thanks for reminding me.

I think I'll go with the detailing spray for the clay after looking into it a little more.

I would mix paint and clear coat together. I would look for the sticky Key repair by richy it's an excellent write up and the best when it come to how to tackle the job. Just be careful when you are sanding it doesn't take much to go through the clear of a factory paint job.

Larry Kosilla has two videos you should look at for chip and or scratch repair they are the best videos I have seen on the topic.

I always use a clay lube. I have tried the soap and water and it wasn't for me. I feel that soap degrades the clay to fast.

phish
05-12-2014, 05:22 PM
For reference here are some of the paint knicks/ scratches I'd like to fix:

http://i.imgur.com/uwZ46qL.jpg
this one is probably too big/ deep for me. will likely have to have it done by a pro. here's a close up:
http://i.imgur.com/98KVbdt.jpg

The rest are like this:
http://i.imgur.com/fX8e568.jpg

chet31
05-12-2014, 06:44 PM
Don't use Dawn. Just use your favorite car soap at a higher than usual concentration. You won't remove all the sealant/wax with a wash anyway. You're claying, which will remove sealant/wax, and you're polishing, which will wipe out anything remaining. Just use a good soap with your first wash.

phish
05-12-2014, 07:03 PM
Don't use Dawn. Just use your favorite car soap at a higher than usual concentration. You won't remove all the sealant/wax with a wash anyway. You're claying, which will remove sealant/wax, and you're polishing, which will wipe out anything remaining. Just use a good soap with your first wash.

Copy that. Dawn stays in the kitchen. This forum is so helpful!

stilltipping3
05-12-2014, 07:17 PM
For reference here are some of the paint knicks/ scratches I'd like to fix:

http://i.imgur.com/uwZ46qL.jpg
this one is probably too big/ deep for me. will likely have to have it done by a pro. here's a close up:
http://i.imgur.com/98KVbdt.jpg

The rest are like this:
http://i.imgur.com/fX8e568.jpg

I would like to see how this turns out?

phish
05-13-2014, 07:08 AM
I would like to see how this turns out?


I'll be sure to post an update. I'm going to ease my way into this repair and do plenty of research before I decide which method I'm going to use.