Saved by Grace
05-07-2014, 11:03 AM
I just want to take a minute and share what I learned doing a full detail on my new Accord. I practiced my "first" detail on my older Acura CL last week, really just to get a feel for the DA Orbiter and products 'n such. It wasn't perfect and I learned a lot. So with that test run under my belt, and reading LOTS more, here's what I wound up doing (kind of in order):
INTERIOR
- Vacuumed everything!
- Megs APC for a total wipedown
- Folex to spruce up carpets
- Dressed everything with Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing (awesome, love the smell too!)
- Stoner's invisible glass
What I learned: Easiest way to think about interior is to go completely OCD. Leave nothing untouched.
WASH
- Dawn dish soap for a strip down with Chenille Mitt and buckets, one with grit guard
- Clayed entire car. Started with using lubricant that came with but when I ran out I simply used a diluted rinseless wash mixture. Worked perfectly and a lot more practical/cheaper.
What I learned: Don't need clay lube, but definitely need a ton of lubricant so the clay just glides.
WHEELS
- Used Blackfire Total Eclipse Wheel & Tire Cleaner with Daytona Speed Brushes. The brushes (now that everything is done) wound up being one of my favorite irreplaceable items. Amazing I can finally reach to the back side of the rims and make them shiny. All those years! :-p
- Iron X Lemon Scent - Okay, I sort of freaked out here. My rotors turned completely yellowish and it looked like crap. Instead of dwelling on it I just moved on and found over time that it reverted back to the metal finish. Whew!
- Rinse and dress with Blackfire Total Eclipse Tire Gel
What I learned: I totally missed the wheels wells. I was so focused on the tires/rims. I will need one of those long handled brushes to get up there.
POLISHING
- Taped pretty much everything black and plastic-y I could find. In retrospect it seems like I didn't need to tape the hard, smooth plastic areas. But the black "rubber" areas like along the top of the door seals would be a must (porous?)
- Used Griot's 6" DA with Blackfire Total Polish and Shine. The "abrasiveness" for this polish is only a level 3 which was perfect for my new car. For future use, normal wear and tear cars, I have 105/205 sitting on the shelf.
- I rotated with 3 LC CCS white pads.
- Wolfgang pad conditioner for before and pad cleaner for when I was done.
What I learned: MUST have MULTIPLE pads of the same color. When I ordered my set of 6 pads I made sure I got a cutting/polishing/AIO/finishing pad. That's great but it won't get me through a car. I learned that lesson when I trashed a brand new pad on my first car by not changing it out. MUST change pad after every 2-3 sections. I couldn't believe how hot the center of the pad was when I would rotate them (and I did not push, pad spun freely). Cleaned pads "on the fly" with a regular cloth towel and spinning DA, it worked great.
PIZZAZZ-ING
- Applied Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection with 1 blue pad. Since I only ran the DA at a speed of 3 it didn't get nearly as hot. When I needed a minute to let it cool off I would simply hand apply in the smaller areas my pad wouldn't fit.
What I learned: Pretty quick process since it's only an application, not a correction. 2-3 passes per section, until the product virtually disappeared.
EXTERIOR TRIM / SEALANT
- Everything black I could find was hit with Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant.
- Capped off entire car with Blackfire Crystal Seal Paint Sealant including rims, lights, windows, etc.
What I learned: The Crystal Seal says no buffing required. Well, I found many applicator smudge marks. I was very sparingly in my application (mist per panel like it says) yet I still found I need a MF to polish it out. No big deal whatsoever, just wanted to mention it.
SUMMARY
Best advice I could offer to any fellow newbie is to make whatever you are doing at that moment perfect, don't think you can take care of it at a later time.
- A good vacuum saves time. It will help you prevent wiping dust all over the place with your MF and cleaner.
- A good wash will remove lose particles so your clay works more efficiently. A good clay will leave a smooth surface preventing you from inducing scratches as you polish. If you don't polish well you will simply seal and make shiny whatever imperfections you didn't polish out. Do every stage PERFECTLY!
THANKS!
This forum is so awesome! "Glen e" took my calls and Tato I love reading your posts. I appreciate the passion in your work and write ups! :props:
Now for my dumb questions...
1. Do you polish over emblems or around them? Like "Accord" on my trunk lid.
2. For narrow/thin areas do you hand polish or tilt the DA on edge?
God Bless!
INTERIOR
- Vacuumed everything!
- Megs APC for a total wipedown
- Folex to spruce up carpets
- Dressed everything with Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing (awesome, love the smell too!)
- Stoner's invisible glass
What I learned: Easiest way to think about interior is to go completely OCD. Leave nothing untouched.
WASH
- Dawn dish soap for a strip down with Chenille Mitt and buckets, one with grit guard
- Clayed entire car. Started with using lubricant that came with but when I ran out I simply used a diluted rinseless wash mixture. Worked perfectly and a lot more practical/cheaper.
What I learned: Don't need clay lube, but definitely need a ton of lubricant so the clay just glides.
WHEELS
- Used Blackfire Total Eclipse Wheel & Tire Cleaner with Daytona Speed Brushes. The brushes (now that everything is done) wound up being one of my favorite irreplaceable items. Amazing I can finally reach to the back side of the rims and make them shiny. All those years! :-p
- Iron X Lemon Scent - Okay, I sort of freaked out here. My rotors turned completely yellowish and it looked like crap. Instead of dwelling on it I just moved on and found over time that it reverted back to the metal finish. Whew!
- Rinse and dress with Blackfire Total Eclipse Tire Gel
What I learned: I totally missed the wheels wells. I was so focused on the tires/rims. I will need one of those long handled brushes to get up there.
POLISHING
- Taped pretty much everything black and plastic-y I could find. In retrospect it seems like I didn't need to tape the hard, smooth plastic areas. But the black "rubber" areas like along the top of the door seals would be a must (porous?)
- Used Griot's 6" DA with Blackfire Total Polish and Shine. The "abrasiveness" for this polish is only a level 3 which was perfect for my new car. For future use, normal wear and tear cars, I have 105/205 sitting on the shelf.
- I rotated with 3 LC CCS white pads.
- Wolfgang pad conditioner for before and pad cleaner for when I was done.
What I learned: MUST have MULTIPLE pads of the same color. When I ordered my set of 6 pads I made sure I got a cutting/polishing/AIO/finishing pad. That's great but it won't get me through a car. I learned that lesson when I trashed a brand new pad on my first car by not changing it out. MUST change pad after every 2-3 sections. I couldn't believe how hot the center of the pad was when I would rotate them (and I did not push, pad spun freely). Cleaned pads "on the fly" with a regular cloth towel and spinning DA, it worked great.
PIZZAZZ-ING
- Applied Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection with 1 blue pad. Since I only ran the DA at a speed of 3 it didn't get nearly as hot. When I needed a minute to let it cool off I would simply hand apply in the smaller areas my pad wouldn't fit.
What I learned: Pretty quick process since it's only an application, not a correction. 2-3 passes per section, until the product virtually disappeared.
EXTERIOR TRIM / SEALANT
- Everything black I could find was hit with Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant.
- Capped off entire car with Blackfire Crystal Seal Paint Sealant including rims, lights, windows, etc.
What I learned: The Crystal Seal says no buffing required. Well, I found many applicator smudge marks. I was very sparingly in my application (mist per panel like it says) yet I still found I need a MF to polish it out. No big deal whatsoever, just wanted to mention it.
SUMMARY
Best advice I could offer to any fellow newbie is to make whatever you are doing at that moment perfect, don't think you can take care of it at a later time.
- A good vacuum saves time. It will help you prevent wiping dust all over the place with your MF and cleaner.
- A good wash will remove lose particles so your clay works more efficiently. A good clay will leave a smooth surface preventing you from inducing scratches as you polish. If you don't polish well you will simply seal and make shiny whatever imperfections you didn't polish out. Do every stage PERFECTLY!
THANKS!
This forum is so awesome! "Glen e" took my calls and Tato I love reading your posts. I appreciate the passion in your work and write ups! :props:
Now for my dumb questions...
1. Do you polish over emblems or around them? Like "Accord" on my trunk lid.
2. For narrow/thin areas do you hand polish or tilt the DA on edge?
God Bless!