PDA

View Full Version : Whats the best way to detail my engine?



cruzeeco2012
05-06-2014, 01:20 PM
Hello Mike. I have a 2012 Chevrolet cruze with a 1.4L engine. Im really wanting to detail it, but im a little scared of doing it because its a new car, and im a perfectionist when it comes to my car. The car is obviously still kinda brand new, and it is still under warranty and I don't want to screw something up if I do this wrong. I want this to be as easy as possible. I know some people aren't to cracked about detailing their engine because they fee no need for it or they don't want to do it, but with me, I cant stand not having my engine clean when I have everything else on my car detailed. I just want to clean my engine without damaging it. Any help Mike?. Thanks

Mike Phillips
05-06-2014, 02:07 PM
Hello Mike. I have a 2012 Chevrolet cruze with a 1.4L engine. Im really wanting to detail it, but im a little scared of doing it because its a new car, and im a perfectionist when it comes to my car.

The car is obviously still kinda brand new, and it is still under warranty and I don't want to screw something up if I do this wrong. I want this to be as easy as possible.

I know some people aren't to cracked about detailing their engine because they fee no need for it or they don't want to do it, but with me, I cant stand not having my engine clean when I have everything else on my car detailed.

I just want to clean my engine without damaging it.

Any help Mike?.

Thanks




Great question.

Couple of comments... there are so many cars, trucks, suvs, etc on the road and new models being introduced all the time that there's now way for any one person to be an "Expert" on how to safely detail all engines and engine compartments for all cars all the time.

Make sense?


Most new "vehicles" have the engine covered with plastic and everything else is covered in some type of plastic cover that you can get away with doing what is called,

Cosmetic Detailing


That is instead of spraying the engine compartment down with an engine degreaser or APC and then blasting or even lightly rinsing the engine with water, just get a collection microfiber towels and some waterless wash and WIPE the engine clean.

Next spray on or wipe on your favorite trim dressing over all the plastic surfaces and use a spray detailer to wipe any painted surfaces clean.

Practice the old KISS, that is Keep it Simple Simon.


If you do the above regularly your engine compartment will always look brand new.


:)

Mike Phillips
05-06-2014, 02:11 PM
Old school engines and engine compartments are EASY to clean and hard to screw up and if you do screw up the fix will be inexpensive. Here's how I cleaned my Jimmy's engine compartment and there's a LOT of good info for anyone and any car.


How to clean an engine compartment (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/67749-how-clean-engine-compartment.html)


The most important thing....

Tape-off and cover over ANYTHING you don't want to have to replace because it was damaged.

AND spend your time up-front doing a really good job of taping-off and covering up anything you don't want to risk damaging and then having to replace.

You can read all about how engines and engine compartments are designed to get wet and for this reason there's no risk involved when detailing an engine and the engine compartment, but when it's your engine and your time and money, you can decide what's best for you and let the other guys do it how they want to do it.

As for me?

After cleaning an engine compartment I want to turn the key, fire up the engine and have zero problems. Zero.

I like to take the time to do a really good job of tapping-off and covering up anything I don't want to get wet and risk having to either replace or simply have problems with.

I really only prefer to detail my own engines and engine compartments too. I teach 'Cosmetic Engine Detailing" in my detailing boot camp classes because this type of engine detailing is profitable for detailers and due to the amount of plastic inside modern cars, trucks and SUVs, it's usually more than enough to make a customer, (that in most cases cannot identify a single component in the engine compartment except the oil dipstick), happy.


Blow out engine compartment
First thing you want to do is blow out the engine compartment using some manner of compressed or forced air. This is where the Metro-Vac Sidekick comes in handy as you can simply plug it in and go to town with it. One of my favorite tools in all my arsenal of tools.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/PlasticBagTip08.jpg



Tape-off and cover any water-sensitive components
Here's the engine compartment in my 1975 Jimmy and it's gotten a little dirty since the last time I cleaned it.

Carburetor
The first thing I did was remove the air cleaner and poked a clean microfiber towel into the openings of the 750 Holley Carburetor. This way, if any kind of liquid gets past the tape, past the tinfoil and past the plastic, the microfiber will absorb the liquid.

HEI Distributor
For the distributor I covered with Saran Wrap, then formed Tin Foil around the Saran Wrap and then use more 3M tape to hold the entire mess onto the distributor so when I'm brushing around it or rinsing with water it won't come off.


Alternator
Yeah yeah yeah... everyone says it's okay to get these wet. Guess what, even if it is okay, when I'm blasting any kind off grunge off other areas I don't want it to get into the alternator. So you can leave yours uncovered but for me and my engines, I'm covering them up.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_001.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_002.jpg


That's about it... the MSD Coil burnt out from too much engine heat so it's just on the firewall for looks. I like MSD ignitions but the stock HEI ignition system is more than adequate for a daily driver. Plus, the higher the voltage you go for your ignition, the harder the spark tries to find anywhere to jump to and this by itself can cause problems.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_003.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_004.jpg


Spray APC or Engine Degreaser on engine and inside engine compartment
I love the Tornador Air Foam Guns! Dang near anything you use with these guns will foam and that's true for Amazing Roll-Off...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_005.jpg


Spray the engine and engine compartment down with your choice of all purpose cleaner, since my engine compartment isn't that dirty I'm using the Amazing Roll-Off. If your engine is really grungy, then a dedicated Engine Degreaser will work a lot better. I built this engine and installed it myself 4 years ago and it's never dripped a drop of oil so it doesn't have any oil grunge on the side of the block or anywhere.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_006.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_007.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_008.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_009.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_011.jpg


Allow the foam to dwell
After spraying everything down with foam a let it soak in and penetrate any dirt or oily film and then this is key,

Agitate well with a brush

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_013.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_014.jpg



Scrub with brushes
I didn't have anyone around to take pictures of me doing all the actual dirty scrubbing parts but that's what I did next, scrubbed everything I could reach and I used a variety of different brushes to do the job.

I would say the brush I used the most and worked the best was the new Daytona Speed Master Pro Wheel Brush. It looks kind of like a... well you now what, only on steroids.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_Daytona_Speed_Master_Pro_Wheel_Brush.jpg



Rinse
After agitating everything you can reach with a brush, then rinse the engine and engine compartment down using a water sprayer. Be careful not to blast anything covered up and taped off.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_015.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_016.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_017.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_018.jpg



Blow engine dry
After rinsing the engine, I blew it dry using the Metro-Vac Sidekick. Again no pictures but I love this tool and it really does a much better job than an air squirter and an air compressor.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_019.jpg



Start Engine
After blowing the engine dry, start the motor and let the motor run for about 15 minutes or so. This will warm the motor up enough to evaporate any water off the engine and out of the engine compartment and it will also vaporize any cleaning solution or other residues. This is important when detailing other people's engines because you don't want any smoke or odor coming off the engine when they pick up their car. So do this before they arrive.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_020.jpg



Products used...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1953/800_How_To_Detail_Engine_021.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/PlasticBagTip07.jpg



At Autogeek.net

Autogeek Z-011D Tornador Air Foamer HP (http://www.autogeek.net/tornador-air-foamer.html)

Metro Blaster SideKick (http://www.autogeek.net/metro-blaster-sidekick.html)

Amazing Roll-Off (http://www.autogeek.net/ro1gal.html)

Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/daytona-speed-master-pro.html)

Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/ezdebrfca.html)

Daytona Speed Master Jr. Wheel Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/daytona-mini-wheel-brush.html)

1” Round Detailing Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/b15.html)

Mothers Fender Well Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/mothers-fender-well-brush.html)

3M Automotive Performance Masking Tape 3 Pack (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-auto-masking-tapes.html)


Action Time!
Now get out there and get to cleaning your engine compartment. You can do it and of course, we can help...


:dblthumb2:

Mike Phillips
05-06-2014, 02:15 PM
Here's my BEST ADVICE and that is to join a discussion forum for you specific make, model and year vehicle and as the in-house Gurus what to look out for.

Chances are good there are others that like you want to detail the engine on a car like yours and have already forged down this path, made mistakes and will share with you their wisdom so you don't have to make their mistakes all over again.

Click this link, it explains everything....


How to use a Discussion Forum to Detail an Engine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/)


Even I take my own advice and check with others about cars and engines outside of the Big Block Chevy world.


:dblthumb2:

Mike Phillips
05-06-2014, 02:19 PM
Here's Nick's excellent how-to guide on engine detailing....


How To: Detail Your Engine Like a Professional (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50352-how-detail-your-engine-like-professional.html#post676260)



I'd still recommend joining a forum just for your car and checking with the hard core 2012 Chevrolet Cruze with a 1.4L engine Gurus as I'm confident they exist.


Better safe than sorry....


One thing for sure, it's no fun starting the motor after cleaning and detailing your engine and engine compartment only to find your engine missing or a warning light coming on and staying on.


:dblthumb2:

cruzeeco2012
05-07-2014, 10:58 PM
Hey thanks again mike for all helpful tips and tricks, as well as product recommendations to help me get the job done. In my next order, I will be buying the Detailers Pro series Engine Degreaser, Daytona speed master wheel brush, as well as smaller miscellaneous brushes to get into tighter spots. The saran wrap and tape can be easily obtained at the store lol. Ill check out Nicks how-to and hopefully that helps me out more. I am in fact a member of a forum for my specific vehicle which is called Cruzetalk.com and We have a detailing section there but there isn't anything about detailing your engine. So I thought id get some advice from the true professional like yourself. Im pretty good at detailing a car for 99% of the car, but the engine compartment isn't a strong point for me for many reasons. Is the main idea for complete safety on detailing an engine to tape off, or cover ANYTHING that is electrical? Or anything that has electrical components around it or on it?

Mike Phillips
05-08-2014, 08:15 AM
Hey thanks again mike for all helpful tips and tricks, as well as product recommendations to help me get the job done. In my next order, I will be buying the Detailers Pro series Engine Degreaser, Daytona speed master wheel brush, as well as smaller miscellaneous brushes to get into tighter spots.



No problemo...







The saran wrap and tape can be easily obtained at the store lol. Ill check out Nicks how-to and hopefully that helps me out more.



Remember that if you do use tinfoil that it's ONLY after you've done a great job of covering the electrical component with Saran Wrap or even plastic bags like you get from Circle K, 7-11 or the grocery store as they tend to be thicker and a little more stout.

Tinfoil is aluminum and can conduct electricity. I've never recommended to use ONLY tinfoil but a combination of plastic and tinfoil and tinfoil goes on after the plastic because you can FORM it to hold the plastic around the component and then add the tape.






I am in fact a member of a forum for my specific vehicle which is called Cruzetalk.com and We have a detailing section there but there isn't anything about detailing your engine.



And that's where you START a discussion on detailing engines and if there's no one there with any experience with this car and this engine then it looks like you're taking one for the team.





So I thought id get some advice from the true professional like yourself. Im pretty good at detailing a car for 99% of the car, but the engine compartment isn't a strong point for me for many reasons.



I don't really like detailing other people's engines except for doing what's called Cosmetic Engine Detailing.

When it comes to my own stuff I own engines I can work on so if I break something I can fix it myself.





Is the main idea for complete safety on detailing an engine to tape off, or cover ANYTHING that is electrical?



It's cheap insurance.





Or anything that has electrical components around it or on it?



The problem is NEW CARS have some much really expensive and complicated electrical components under the hood and around the engine compartment that you and I don't have the knowledge or understanding of how to replace them after we break them so people that own new cars, or new technology are at the mercy of the dealership.

Maybe practice just doing cosmetic engine detailing to start with?

:)

Jaretr1
05-08-2014, 10:35 AM
I would follow Mike's advice here and stick with cosmetic detailing. About once every few months I pop open the hood of my car and take a damp towel and just wipe everything down. I can reach most of everything I can see. I then take some PERL and go over some of the plastic and rubber to keep it looking new. I blow all the leaves out.

I am hesitant as well about spraying my engine compartment down with water or chemicals. Unless your engine is leaking fluid or oil, there should be no greasy buildups, so the cosmetic engine detailing is all you should need to do.

Mike Phillips
05-08-2014, 10:41 AM
I would follow Mike's advice here and stick with cosmetic detailing. About once every few months I pop open the hood of my car and take a damp towel and just wipe everything down. I can reach most of everything I can see. I then take some PERL and go over some of the plastic and rubber to keep it looking new. I blow all the leaves out.

I am hesitant as well about spraying my engine compartment down with water or chemicals. Unless your engine is leaking fluid or oil, there should be no greasy buildups, so the cosmetic engine detailing is all you should need to do.


Thanks for adding the above Jaret.... good advice... this is all I did to our Honda engine and engine compartment and it's all I'm going to do to the Mercedes-Benz engine and engine compartment.


:dblthumb2:

Jaretr1
05-08-2014, 11:13 AM
With todays modern cars, there are so many electrical connections, and while for the most part they are water resistant, if during an engine detail, water can get into these connectors, and if not cause an immediate problem, cause one over the long haul. I think part of the reason manufacturers cover the engines these days with those hideous plastic covers is to help keep some of the dirt and water out.

Seeing the OP has a new car and is not detailing a car that has not been maintained, it should be easy to keep clean. Even newer cars with some grease buildup, its probably best just to spot clean or degrease those areas and not spray down the entire engine. That is just my opinion.

My car has 18k miles, and recently when I went to the dragstrip and they checked my engine compartment, the guy commented "nice and clean" so I take that as validation my method is working reasonably well :)

cruzeeco2012
05-09-2014, 12:34 AM
No problemo...





Remember that if you do use tinfoil that it's ONLY after you've done a great job of covering the electrical component with Saran Wrap or even plastic bags like you get from Circle K, 7-11 or the grocery store as they tend to be thicker and a little more stout.

Tinfoil is aluminum and can conduct electricity. I've never recommended to use ONLY tinfoil but a combination of plastic and tinfoil and tinfoil goes on after the plastic because you can FORM it to hold the plastic around the component and then add the tape.


And that's where you START a discussion on detailing engines and if there's no one there with any experience with this car and this engine then it looks like you're taking one for the team.

I don't really like detailing other people's engines except for doing what's called Cosmetic Engine Detailing.

When it comes to my own stuff I own engines I can work on so if I break something I can fix it myself.




It's cheap insurance.


The problem is NEW CARS have some much really expensive and complicated electrical components under the hood and around the engine compartment that you and I don't have the knowledge or understanding of how to replace them after we break them so people that own new cars, or new technology are at the mercy of the dealership.

Maybe practice just doing cosmetic engine detailing to start with?

[B][I]Yeah I get that. The thing is, my cars engine bay would be so easy to clean because there is so much room behind the engine, and on the sides, except for the diver side is where the battery is, and the fuse panel. The picture below is what im dealing with on my Chevrolet cruze.
:)
[B][I]Okay, ill keep this in mind as well. If I use saran wrap, do you suggest me doubling up on the wrap?. Would adding just tape around the saran wrap be enough to hold it in place if I got the right stuff?. I was either going to use 3M auto masking tape or 3M electrical tape.
[B][I]Haha. Right you are mike. I think other members on there have the same outlook on detailing their engine on a new car as I do...they don't want to screw something up. [B][I]I completely agree with that mike. If someone asks me to detail their engine while im detailing their car, what should I tell them based off my concerns and experience?. If im confident enough, I guess I know the answer lol. What can you suggest at this point forward?.