Iron X questions

[Prophizee]

Hey gentlemen got a car that a friend owns and he wants me to detail it, paint is in terrible condition. I have a few questions about iron X. First of all reading the description it says to tape of wheel calipers and wheel weights. How do you go about doing this. Is it easier just to take the wheels off and do it. Or is it just one of those things that if you spray the calipers ones or twice it won't do much harm. Also once sprayed on the paint and it changes color should you actually wipe it with a sponge or just wash it away. The reason I ask is because common sense would dictate that the loose composites would scratch the paint once you begin to whipe. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

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[GreatAvalon]

subscribed.

[jamesboyy]

From my experience with the product I have not see any negative effects when you apply it onto the brake calipers, wheel weights or anything just make sure the wheels and everything is cool, as for the paint you will want to use iron x after you have washed the vehicle and right before you would clay the paintwork and the process I use is spray one panel at a time (starting from the top downward) then lightly spread the product onto the panel for even coverage with a sponge then after five mins or so ( don't let it dry) rinse it off and I does that same process until the whole vehicle is done....hope this help a little

[HD.Detailing]

I use pressure sprayer and apply to the whole car out if the sun and let it dwell about 5 mins then take a damp grout sponge and agitate the product and let dwell a little longer 3-5 minutes and then I high pressure rinse and rinse and rinse and rinse again. Wheel weight turned green but wiped off no worries. Take pictures pretty neat stuff.


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[SYMAWD]

It may turn some wheel weights green, but not permanently. It really isn't an issue just spraying the whole wheel.

You can use a microfiber soaked in a rinseless solution to agitate the paint.

[geekdout]

Wheels- I almost exclusively use the paste version on wheels, application is easier and dwell time is much longer. I use a old but clean wax applicator to apply it.
Before I apply any kind of Iron-X type product I try to make the wheels as clean as possible this includes stripping any wheel wax or sealant off. Normally a strong wheel cleaner will strip off the sealant or wax.
While I am applying the product I will agitate it with a soft brush to help the process along. I will let it sit for 3 to 5 mins then just rinse it off.

Paint- I like Wolfs Deironizing spray gel. It seems like it might be a little bit on the safer side because it says on the bottle that its ok if it drys on the paint. It leaves some paint squeaky clean.
Give it about the same amount of time as the wheels to dwell, 3 to 5 mins. Then just rinse it off.

[HD.Detailing]

MF idea probably better idea than my sponge will try that next time.. Got a GTR coming up


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[Prophizee]

I didn't even realize they had a paste version. Thanks guy for all the quick responses

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[Joseph Rogers]

From what I've gathered, it's probably a relatively intense acid. I wouldn't let that get on the brakes much, if ever, for liability and safety reasons...especially if you're being paid by someone else to do their car. That's just asking for trouble. Take the few extra minutes to pull the rims or tape them off, and save yourself the potential headache, man.

[SYMAWD]

From what I've gathered, it's probably a relatively intense acid. I wouldn't let that get on the brakes much, if ever, for liability and safety reasons...especially if you're being paid by someone else to do their car. That's just asking for trouble. Take the few extra minutes to pull the rims or tape them off, and save yourself the potential headache, man.
Actually, it is pH neutral. When it reacts with the Iron though, it may not be.

[HD.Detailing]

It's a liquid, and it will not hurt the brakes, I wouldn't go the extra effort of removing wheels for an ironx treatment. I use it to clean stubborn wheels as do many others.. If you are concerned plastic bag over the wheels and go for it


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[FUNX650]

From what I've gathered, it's probably a relatively intense acid. I wouldn't let that get on the brakes much, if ever, for liability and safety reasons...especially if you're being paid by someone else to do their car. That's just asking for trouble. Take the few extra minutes to pull the rims or tape them off, and save yourself the potential headache, man.
Yep...The cleaning instructions, for many OEM brake system components', clearly state to use only mild soap and water.

Pulling wheels:
Also: Potential headache if wheels are not torqued, and in correct sequence, with a "torque-check" after ~200 miles...especially for OEM chrome, and all aftermarket wheels.

Bob

[GreatAvalon]

^I've never seen brake cleaning instructions in my car's user manual. If so, I would expect it to say "brake cleaner" :laughing:

[FUNX650]

^I've never seen brake cleaning instructions in my car's user manual. If so, I would expect it to say "brake cleaner" :laughing:
TSBs are loaded with information of this type.
For example (excerpted from a GM TSB):

"Customers and dealership personnel must be advised to NEVER ALLOW WHEEL CLEANER, TIRE CLEANER, or BRAKE CLEANER TO CONTACT CERAMIC ROTORS AND DISC PADS! Ceramic rotors and pads will absorb any material that comes in contact with them. Only soap and water should be used to clean wheels and tires. Any product that is applied to the pads and/or rotor surfaces will cause damage to the surface and is not covered under the GM warranty".

Bob

[fly07sti]

I recently coated my buddy's GTR with DP coating and used IronX gel. I feel it's a little easier to use on the paint rather then the spray. With the gel, you first wash the vehicle than while it's wet, apply the gel with a sponge to the exact area's you want. While doing this you are applying to the exact areas you want to remove ferrous iron and agitating at the same time. With the spray you have to wash, then dry, then spray, let dwell and then agitate/spread. I also use less of the gel which is a plus.