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View Full Version : Help me identify all of my paint issues! (Test your detailing prowess pros!)



SirFerret
04-12-2014, 07:21 PM
Hello all!

This is my first post, but it is sure going to be an ambitious one!

I bought this car used almost two years ago as my daily driver, and had quickly become my baby. Paint was in pretty good condition for a 2000 model year vehicle. Been washing it every week when I can, and waxing once a month. I did polish it last with Meguiars Ultimate sometime last year, and it sure is due again.

While MOST of the paint is what I consider excellent condition, there are a few trouble spots that I am not sure how to go about fixing.

Below I have posted a high res close up picture of every different type of defect the paint has, and will number each one. If you have any info on any photo, just list the number in your post for easy reference.

I know this is ambitious, but I want to bring everything back to they way it used to be. If you want any more info or photos, I would be happy to get those for you.

Thanks so much!

http://i.imgur.com/z1JnoaB.jpg
#1 This is on the hood where the washer fluid sprays out. I cant seem to get the stain out with clay bar or hand polishing (due to lack on space for buffer)

http://i.imgur.com/sxr7ed7.jpg
#2 These little spots are on the front of the hood, and right behind both front wheels. Based on my research I think it is hot brake dust that etches into the paint.

http://i.imgur.com/GQL8cwQ.jpg
#3 This is also on the hood. It is a paint chip that looks to be fresh, as it has not yet rusted.

http://i.imgur.com/u87hcM3.jpg
#4 I have no idea what this substance is. There are a few instances of it on the sides on the car. I could not get it off with Goo Gone or any other tar/bug removing product.

http://i.imgur.com/sLFN1Lm.jpg
#5 This is an interesting issue. It looks like sometime in the cars life, someone tried to pry it open with a screwdriver. Metal is kinda marred up, and it looks like it got a crappy touch up paint job. Plastic is a little scratched, but do not really care as I could get a new one cheap.

http://i.imgur.com/oOzmuBa.jpg
#6 Looks like an old scratch or rust spot covered by another sloppy touch up paint job.

http://i.imgur.com/4WJhzEa.jpg
#7 Relatively deep scratch that I can feel, so I know it cant just be buffed out. There are a few around the entire body.

http://i.imgur.com/i9dRzwK.jpg
#8 Small dent on the fender well. Not a huge issue, but if I can get that out it would be great!

http://i.imgur.com/nQjX1Zi.jpg
#9 One of the more unsightly areas on my ride. The paint has just started to disintegrate on the painted plastic license plate cover/holder. Probably will need to be removed and repainted.

http://i.imgur.com/pWD7eu5.jpg
#10 How do I clean really intricate areas around emblems like this? Also another hint on the car model!

http://i.imgur.com/0jKdAFO.jpg
#11 I think its a scrape. Not sure if touch up paint was applied.

http://i.imgur.com/RQ6rog6.jpg
#12 Rusted paint chip with another cruddy touch up job. These are especially prevalent on the hood. I did put on a bug visor, so it should help it in the future.

http://i.imgur.com/GV4tPsP.jpg
#13 All the plastic trim is pretty bad. I did Plastidip all of them last year, but that obviously did not work out. Suggestions on bumper paint would be great.

http://i.imgur.com/TIQpNNq.jpg
#14 Front bumper with dent in it from some dude flinging his door open while I was pulling into a spot. Another good shot of the fading trim.

http://i.imgur.com/yQNrXJH.jpg
#15 Not sure if this is rust? Its on the hub and lugnuts on each wheel.

http://i.imgur.com/ygfkiKx.jpg
#16 Some of the rims have some nasty deep scrapes in them that have started to rust. They are steel painted wheels, not alloy.

http://i.imgur.com/kyIPnqK.jpg
#17 This is the rear tire well. Looks like the factory paint is coming off. No rust, but I would like to fix this to protect the vehicle.

http://i.imgur.com/Y0hTxdV.jpg
#18 A really old crusty sticker. Would not come off easy with Goo Gone and a scraper. Might have to try steam or another product.

http://i.imgur.com/uYk226x.jpg
#19 Some hard water spots on the windows. Most prevalent on the non moving back glass. I heard you can polish or clay those out.

http://i.imgur.com/26JepTJ.jpg
#20 This is the absolute worst thing that needs to be fixed. What you see is not lint or dust. I think it is a bunch of tiny pits in the glass. When the sun hits it, the whole windscreen is blinding and looks like it was sandblasted. The pits cannot be felt, so they are not that deep. I hear you can potentially polish it out, but was concerned about blurring or distorting the glass. It is the original windscreen.

Quiksilver5882
04-12-2014, 11:41 PM
Welcome to AGO! I'd recommend picking up some Iron X. It'll make claying much easier. Stoners Tarminator works very well at removing tar deposits. As for the bumpers, you could try something like Ultima Tire and Trim Guard. I'm surprised the plasti dip didn't hold up for you. The sloppy touch up paint can be leveled with 2500 grit and 3000 grit sandpaper if you're feeling adventurous. And as for the class, I highly recommend ceriglass and the carpro glass pads.

rolop6
04-13-2014, 12:07 AM
You need a new car or just do lots of reaserch here. There are other articles that can explain way more in depth then anyone can. Do some research, you'll find lots of good I depth articles.

Calendyr
04-13-2014, 12:56 AM
I did not look at all the pictures but you have all sorts of issues that cannot be fixed by detailing. My suggestion would be to learn to paint the car yourself. It looks like an older model honda, probably 2000-2004. I would not pay to have it done by a bodyshop because it would cost you more than the actual value of the car. If you do it yourself you can do it for in between a 100 to 1000$ depending on how you decide to do it.

As for cleaning intricate areas like badges, use a brush. There are detailing bushes that you can buy that will cost you 10-20$. I personally use the small paintbrush available at dollar stores. I tape the metal area just above the bristles with duct tape so that the brushes can't scratch anything. If you buy a bunch of them, you can have one for each thing you need brushes for: Lug nuts and wheels, badges, interior detail (vents, nook and crannies, etc). I just write on the wood handle what the brush is for so I don't cross-contaminate.

oldmodman
04-13-2014, 01:16 AM
Repaint, replace all the rusted chrome bits. Weld in patch panels for rusted bubbling areas like around the door handle.

Put car up on a lift to inspect for rust damage under the car. Areas like the rocker panels, the floor, inside the trunk.

In other words the place to start is not to start at all.

To stop the rust you can get a spray bottle of Eastwood Rust Converter to stop the rust from further damaging the areas that are already going. But that's where I would stop. To help prevent further paint damage just keep a coat of wax on the car.

SirFerret
04-13-2014, 06:14 AM
Welcome to AGO! I'd recommend picking up some Iron X. It'll make claying much easier. Stoners Tarminator works very well at removing tar deposits. As for the bumpers, you could try something like Ultima Tire and Trim Guard. I'm surprised the plasti dip didn't hold up for you. The sloppy touch up paint can be leveled with 2500 grit and 3000 grit sandpaper if you're feeling adventurous. And as for the class, I highly recommend ceriglass and the carpro glass pads.

I was also surprised that the plastidip did not last more than a year. The plastidip I had put on the window trim 2 years ago still looks new. It was really the front bumper being the worst, as the rear still looks pretty good.

Will have to try the Stoners Tarminator, and look into the Ultima Trim Gaurd. I also don't mind wet sanding, and I kind of thought it was going to the only way. For the glass, is there any way to mess it up or is it a safe procedure? I don't want to distort it.

Thanks for the info

BobbyG
04-13-2014, 06:27 AM
Unfortunately, most of what you show cannot be corrected with any amount of detailing. Whether the defect is rust or physical damage a trip to the autobody shop is really the only solution as these defects require mechanical correction.

Have the windshield replaced at a glass shop as it needs to be done professionally.

SirFerret
04-16-2014, 10:27 AM
Thanks for all the replies! You all must think my car is a complete piece of junk :laughing:.

http://i.imgur.com/bz6PDT4.jpg

It actually looks pretty good IMHO. There is no structural rust, as it is a relatively southern vehicle. I also do all the mechanical work myself, and it is very well taken care of in that regard. It is just the few trouble spots that I pointed out in the first post.

It does look like the windshield and door handle issue is best left for a professional. I already thought that was the case, but why not ask.

I do not mind trying out wet-sanding on the paint chips and the shoddy paint touch-up jobs, so that should be fun. Ordered some sealant (Jetseal 109) to keep the paint nice and protected.

Once again, thanks for helping me identify some of these issues so I could further research them. Of course, any more info would be great!

Chrono
04-16-2014, 10:51 AM
I like your car, looks very purposeful. And it's a Honda so she'll treat you right.

The hard water spots on glass will come off with glass polish or even a medium-grade car polish. Follow with some weak isopropol then Rain-X or similar.
For the wheels, since they are steel - I'd take them off, sand, and repaint. A weekend project, and they'll look great, again, because they are steel it's low risk if you are handy with a paint can. Lot's of thin coats, sand lightly between coats. Tack rag, etc.