Difficulty removing Meguiar's D300

[Mustang81]

I was doing some correction work today using D300 and the corresponding cutting pad from Meguiar's. I was having a HARD time removing the D300 after working over the section. I thought this was odd because everything I've read about D300 says it's easy to work with.

What was I doing wrong that it was so hard to remove? I expected it to come right off, but instead it took some elbow grease to get it off. When it did come off though the car looked pretty good, so no complaints about how well it works.

It was sitting for a while before I got around to using it. Could I have not shook it up enough?

[Belair]

Did you let it dry too long or use too much?

[Setec Astronomy]

Sounds like you probably used too much, or let it get caked up on the (MF?) pad. Are you fluffing the fibers on the pad when they get matted down? Compressed air is the best way to do this. You're are definitely doing something wrong because D300 is a breeze to get off.

[HD.Detailing]

did you do it in the sun? Hot surface?

[cardaddy]

That's really odd. D300 is one of the easiest, if not THE easiest removing compound Meguiar's makes. Take care to properly prime the pad only ONE time. Then use 2~3 pea sized drops when you start a new section.

Always always always use lots of air, going inside to out, then outside to in, both clockwise and counter clockwise to both clean and fluff up the fibers after EACH section. Don't wait till you do an entire panel! :eek:

As long as you keep the pad clean, do only a 20"x20" (or so section) and do NOT use too much product I can't imagine an easier product to work with.

Doesn't hurt that it cuts great and finishes fantastic either! :)

[Tac07]

I am as well having this problem!! I have seen numerous videos and tried over and over, primed the pad, used a small amount 2 dots, and did 4-5 passes, and tired to remove and it was very difficult, car was cool to
The touch, not in direct sunlight. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

[DetailedByPrecision]

I have this happen to me before when I was new to using MF pads. As stated the reason was because I did not brush out the fibers/use compressed air to blow out the fibers after every buffing cycle. The fibers were caked on and flatted to the point that it was losing it's original cut by at least half.

[The Guz]

I agree with everyone else on D300 being easy to remove. I have used M105 with the MF pads and that was hard to remove compared to D300.

[Flash Gordon]

Try spritzing with water and starting over. Also, just do 1 section at a time and avoid heat/sun

[HD.Detailing]

I am as well having this problem!! I have seen numerous videos and tried over and over, primed the pad, used a small amount 2 dots, and did 4-5 passes, and tired to remove and it was very difficult, car was cool to
The touch, not in direct sunlight. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

To big of an area?

Sent from my Alien Ship

[jfelbab]

My opinion...

When polishing you are grinding paint. In all likelihood what is hard to remove is spent polish and paint that has dried or gotten gummy, right?

Try working in a small area no larger than 2'x2' and clean the pad after every pass or two. Try using only one or two passes and stop. Don't polish until the residue has a chance to dry, begins to dust or get gummy. I assume you are using MF pads. I use compressed air to clean the pad after every small section.

You can also use a couple mist sprays of water (sparingly) on the surface, but, IMO, cleaning the pad and working smaller areas is key. Also important, is to be sure that your pad is not overheating. Cleaning the pad after each small area should give the pad and backing plate time to adequately cool.

I use a lot of polish and after I do a small section I blast the residue out of the pad with compressed air. The fibers of the pad get fluffed up and the pad and backing plate cool. This only takes a minute if you have a compressor handy. Then I gently wipe up the area I've polished and inspect the results. I re-apply the polish to the MF pad and continue. I use quite a bit of polish but most often I only need one or two passes to reach a swirl free finish. A clean pad yields quick results and avoids heat build-up and any dusting.

Finally, prior to polishing you have adequately cleaned and clayed the surface right? Otherwise you might be having issues with old wax or other LSP residue making things difficult.

[Mustang81]

Ok, so I was using the brush that was suggested to clean out the pad and not compressed air. I would clean the pad every other section.

It's possible I wasn't cleaning the pad well enough, or that I should be cleaning it every section. Using too much is another possibility. The car was in my garage and was cool to the touch, so I don't think it was a heat thing. I had also primed the pad as instructed.

Waiting too long is a possibility too. I would do four-six passes depending on how bad that section was. One thing was that the whole section wasn't hard to remove, just certain spots. It's almost like it got laid down a little thicker in those spots.

I'll rewatch the videos and see if there is anything in particular I missed as far as cleaning the pad goes. I did try to make sure that they fluffed up nice.

This stuff is great and I'm sure it's me that's having the problem and not the product. Unfortunately it'll be a while before I can get back out there to continue the correction I started. If I figure out what the problem was, I'll post back here with an update!

[Setec Astronomy]

Waiting too long is a possibility too. I would do four-six passes depending on how bad that section was. One thing was that the whole section wasn't hard to remove, just certain spots. It's almost like it got laid down a little thicker in those spots.

I don't know, maybe I haven't adjusted to the current trend to use A LOT of polish which seemed to start with the MF system to butter it up with your finger to get all the strands coated, and now it seems like people do the same with their foam pads like icing on a cake.

When I use the MF/D300, when I'm done polishing a section there is basically nothing left on the panel except maybe a little film, I basically work it until it's gone, but perhaps I'm using less than most people. The point is that when I go to wipe off, it can't be anything but easy because there basically isn't anything there.

In the old days that's how "we" used to do it, basically work our (DAT) polish until it was gone (short of dry buffing), but as I said, the trend these days seems to be more polish.