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View Full Version : rail dust on new 07 Sonata



Tonya
07-16-2007, 07:12 PM
Ok I took the car to the dealership. They said no big deal it's just rail dust. Don't worry about it we will clean it up. So I left the car for about 4 hours when they called an said it was done. Went back most spots were gone, he said it did not get into the paint. Not sure I believe him, whatever. They missed a few spots he removed them while I waited. They could not get the rust that was between the back windshield and trunk. He said don't worry about it, there is no way it would cause the car to rust. Rail dust is from other pieces of metal that landed on your car. He further explained it woud just wash away. (nice to know that rust just would just wash away) I very calmly explained I did not understand how it is not possible for my trunk to rust when there is no clear coat. He went on to tell me cars now days are made of a different metal that does not rust. At this point I was ready to explode. So I calmly thanked him for his time let him know my husband was an aeronautical engineer and I would have to get him to explain the new metals that don't rust. I said, I bet if they use this type of metal on cars, they use it on planes too. (figured at this point I could play dumb or get pissed) Then I said, if the metal on cars will not rust why do people spend some much time washing and waxing them. He told me, people just do it for the looks. I love being treated like a dumb blond. Oh - he also did not want to give me any paperwork to show I was there. I had to ask 3 times to get a service reciept. So how bad is it that tiny pieces of rust can't be reached to get it cleaned off? Is my trunk going to rust out in 5 years? What is a reasonable solution from the dealership?
Going forward my husband will be dealing with the dealership to resolve any issues, I am done!:D
Tonya
Feed back please

DanielSwe
07-16-2007, 07:19 PM
Better check if they take that car back and that's not the way to treat someone with a knack for cars.

D
07-16-2007, 07:27 PM
Id go back with your husband and throw a fit. Just keep working your way up on the ladder. Might take awhile, but youll get what you want.

Tonya
07-16-2007, 08:59 PM
My problem is I really like this car! It took a long time for my husband and I to find a car we could both be happy with. I am 5'3" he is 6'4", I am cheap he loves all the extras. Everything I liked was small and sporty but did not have enough leg room for him. Everything he liked I didn't think was worth the price for an everyday car. I really don't want to take the car back unless, I am sure I will have a problem in a few years. So..... do you believe this is going to be a major rust problem, if I can remove all the spots? I am going to figure out a way to get something between the area to see if I can get the spots?
Thanks everyone!!
Tonya

Tonya
07-16-2007, 09:24 PM
I found a Q-tip will fit, but I am done. I will wait for my husband to get up to par from his surgery and let him deal with it. Thanks for all your ideas and support! Lets end this thread and focus on more positve things.
Thanks,
Tonya

sneek
07-16-2007, 09:32 PM
Try a good paint cleaner, working it in really well. It should get rid of it. Did you try a clay bar like I suggested in the last thread? I have removed rail dust several times before and both clay bars and paint cleaners work, but claybars are faster

D
07-16-2007, 10:09 PM
Lets end this thread and focus on more positve things.
Thanks,
Tonya

Did you get my PM, did it help?

Tropicality
07-17-2007, 12:25 AM
I just noticed a rust spot on each side of my rear taillights in between the crack to the paint last time I washed.. I am wondering if it came from where they installed the spoiler by simply drilling bolts through the rear trunk...

I'm thinking I might take it in and see what they have to say. Car is 2 months old.

Tonya
07-17-2007, 06:07 AM
Sneek,
Thanks for the suggestions but I did not try the clay. The area that is the worst is between the bottom of the window and the top of the trunk. I didn't think the clay bar would fit. I was worried I would get the clay in there and not be able to get it out. But thanks for the suggetion. I am going to let the dealership and my husband handle it going forward. I am done been treated like a fool.
Thanks,
Tonya

Tonya
07-17-2007, 06:09 AM
Dan,
Thanks for the PM. I sent a reply today please let me know if you did not get it.
Thanks,
Tonya

sparkie
07-17-2007, 06:32 AM
Tonya, I had a 97 Honda I bought new with about same problem. The dealership took it to the bodyshop and sanded and repainted the area in and around the lip (water channel) of the truck. Never seen rust again, and I wax the area about every 4-5 mounts. I had the car for two years.

Al-53
07-17-2007, 08:17 AM
The best way to rid a vehicle of any rail dust or transportation contaminates is a Decon wash....Most car manufactures has a service bulletin to do this before delivery...I know Ford does ..as I watched my truck recieve one....

It is the most effective way to remove rail dust...and any other contaminates...clay does not really pull it out as to just sorta snaps off the shards....the wash disolves them..and its 100% safe....

the 2 companies that make it that I know of is FK1 and Autoint(ValuGuard)...the one thats used in dealerships mostly is AutoInt...<its the most effective one....

here is the serrvice bulletin for Ford...it shows the procedure

http://www.autoint.com/v2/2/tsb/tsb04-09-06.pdf


here is the product procedure....

Product Details

The A-B-C System is a three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.

Product "A"-Acid Neutralizer removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits. An 8-1 concentrate that dwells for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

Product "B"-Alkaline Neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout. Ready to use formula that dwells for 5-7 minutes.

Product "C"-Detail Wash (formerly pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner), an excellent 128-1 concentrate vehicle wash for every day use and the third step in our neutralization system. Ensures any chemical residues are neutralized and rinsed away.


this is the AutoInt product....Commonly called ValuGuard.....

Hope this helps in getting your problem fixed....

AL

ZoranC
07-17-2007, 11:35 PM
Tonya, I was about to give you same advice as Al, but I see Al beat me to it. Listen to his advice, paint decontamination is best approach.

Tonya
07-18-2007, 07:46 PM
Thanks everyone!! I let you know how it goes.
Tonya