Meguiar's DUB Wheel Cleaner as Paint Decontaminant

[trekkeruss]

I bought a bottle last night, since it is supposed to be similar to Iron-X, and it only costs $9.00. I'm not going to be using it on my own car, but my sister's Toyota Corolla, which has probably only been washed a handful of times in its 15 years of existence. The white paint on her car is duller than a butter knife, so I thought I'd give it some love, and experiment on it at the same time.

[tuscarora dave]

Sounds a little risky testing out such an unknown on an oxidized single stage paint. If I were in your shoes, I'd just clay that Corolla and polish it out with some #7 and leave the experiments to some beater with a healthier paint system.

Just my $0.02

[trekkeruss]

But it's already a beater, isn't it? LOL. I'm going to do a test spot first.

[GenesisCoupe]

^^ Someone tested several Iron products on a white hood before. One of the items was Sonax Full Effect (wheel cleaner) and the Sonax did not work whatsoever on the hood. It stayed green in color while the rest of the products turned blood red.

[tuscarora dave]

But it's already a beater, isn't it? LOL. I'm going to do a test spot first.

Well...It does certainly sound like a beater. Here's my thinking, and it's just that...my thinking...

An oxidized single stage paint tends to be quite dry and I'll use the word porous for a lack of a better word..."Absorbent" could be another fitting word to describe oxidized single stage paint.

I've seen oxidized single stage paints absorb very heavy coats of #7 show car glaze, to the point that I knew it could drink up another healthy application of the glaze. Now, #7 is in fact healthy for oxidized paint, it brings life and elasticity back to it.

I'm just going to assume for a second here...I'd assume that #7 Show Car Glaze is not the only thing that an oxidized single stage paint will readily absorb.

The #7 being healthy for it, Assuming again....I'm going to take a wild guess that a wheel cleaner designed to dissolve ferrous metal contamination off of wheels, being absorbed into unhealthy, absorbent single stage paint is not going to be a good thing for the paint into the future.

Yes it sounds like a beater, assuming again... it sounds currently like the car has paint on it, albeit dull and unhealthy, I'm sure the owner would like to still have paint on the car until she's done with the car. I'm not saying that the paint will fall off onto the garage floor next week...just that we're here to learn to bring car care to "the better" not the worse.

[RobertJ34]

Here is the review of 4 diff Iron removers that GenesisCoupe is talking about.

Throw Down: Iron Remover Comparisons - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum (http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detailing-product-reviews/44548-throw-down-iron-remover-comparisons.html)

[RobertJ34]

I can't count, I meant 5*

[FUNX650]

Someone over at MOL recently asked:
What if the car paint needed the brake dust removed, would this be safe for the car?

"Well, we don't specifically market it that way, and I'll have to double check with our R&D guys, but odds are it's totally safe for use that way, just as IronX and TriX are. It is a pH neutral product safe to use on all wheel surfaces, including bare, high polished aluminum. A catalyzed factory clear coat is pretty tough stuff so this should be OK.

But keep in mind, that's a SHOULD BE OK and not a green light to use it that way. Let's see what our R&D guys say first".

~Michael Stoops
Internet Technical Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
_______________________________________________

Alluding to Dave's excellent and informative postings:
Does your sister's car have either a SS, or BC/CC paint system?

Bob

[tuscarora dave]

Someone over at MOL recently asked:
What if the car paint needed the brake dust removed, would this be safe for the car?

"Well, we don't specifically market it that way, and I'll have to double check with our R&D guys, but odds are it's totally safe for use that way, just as IronX and TriX are. It is a pH neutral product safe to use on all wheel surfaces, including bare, high polished aluminum. A catalyzed factory clear coat is pretty tough stuff so this should be OK.

But keep in mind, that's a SHOULD BE OK and not a green light to use it that way. Let's see what our R&D guys say first".

~Michael Stoops
Internet Technical Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
_______________________________________________

Does your sister's car have either a SS, or BC/CC paint system?

Bob

Thanks Bob. Wonder what recommendation Mike Stoops would offer into the OP's plan?

Most Toyota whites that I'm familiar with are single stage, especially if they're dull, chalky looking.

[GenesisCoupe]

Here is the review of 4 diff Iron removers that GenesisCoupe is talking about.

Throw Down: Iron Remover Comparisons - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum (http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/detailing-product-reviews/44548-throw-down-iron-remover-comparisons.html)


Thanks! That's it!

[FUNX650]

Thanks Bob. Wonder what recommendation Mike Stoops would offer into the OP's plan?

Most Toyota whites that I'm familiar with are single stage, especially if they're dull, chalky looking.
It'd be a guess on my part, but Mike Stoops might say something about a "test spot"...Lemme check with R&D. (LOL)

It may seem a little too cautious, but I'm the person that's a little hesitant in using any of these types of wheel cleaners on mounted wheel/tire assemblies...
I remove them from the vehicles when using any of these "bleeders", if for nothing else:
My relief of becoming stressed-out about impending brake failures, or the bottom falling out!

Too little existing hard-evidence that there's no harm to the brake components, suspension, etc. from their use.
Some of these systems use CF, fiberglass, other "exotic materials" that are not to be exposed to anything but the mildest of cleaners. (To do otherwise chances their warranties being voided)

So if I have these reservations regarding vehicles wheels and color-changing wheel cleaners,
Then using them on any type of paint/systems is totally out of the question.

IMO:That's the purpose of those:
"ABC...easy as Steps 1,2,3" Systems.


Bob

[RobertJ34]

No prob. I actually bought Wolfs b/c it was cheaper, figured lets try something diff., THEN this was posted. Nothing against Wolfs, but I will never go against Iron-X again for a dedicated Iron remover for paint. Used Wolfs on a 7 yr old white SUV, knowing it have never been detailed. Barely saw any red/purple after dwelling 5 mins- I said this can't be. Went over entire car with Iron-X, within 3 minutes it looked like I hit Barney the dinosaur, and then backed over him, and did it again...

[tuscarora dave]

with Iron-X, within 3 minutes it looked like I hit Barney the dinosaur, and then backed over him, and did it again...

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

I've done lots of "Outside the Box" testing with acids, alkalies, combinations of the two, Iron-X, wheel cleaners etc. on paints for brake/rail dust removal. I would just be hesitant to do such testing on unhealthy single stage paints.

I definitely won't recommend anyone to do some of the things I've done with the paint on some of the commercial vehicles I work on...I recommend Iron-X to anyone who asks about the tiny rust specks in their paint.

[trekkeruss]

I only had an hour or so to play with my sister's car. Here is a shot of the trunk lid after washing it. Claying did not make it much better!
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr253/pistoncupchampion/Detailing/DSC01969_zpse1bc330b.jpg

Testing the DUB Wheel Cleaner on the right quarter panel; the results after about three minutes.
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr253/pistoncupchampion/Detailing/DSC01972_zpsd2b96f44.jpg