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jetta3guy8913
03-30-2014, 10:22 PM
I ordered some Pf2500 this weekend and look forward to using it, hopefully this coming weekend depending on the weather up here in New England. I"ll be using this on my 14 GTI that has some dealer installed swirl marks, nothing crazy but noticeable. After I wash and ironx and clay the paint I plan on using this polish. I just want to make sure I will be polishing correctly. I have a 7424xp and I have Lake County flat white and CCS white pads. I believe I should go with the flat ones for this polish. To use the actual product I put a few pea sized drops on the pad mist it with a QD and work it in a 2x2 section making 6 passes at a speed of 5? Then use an IPA wipedown on the section to inspect the work? Seems almost too easy. Thanks!

281
03-30-2014, 10:23 PM
Mist then pea drops...

lawrenceSA
03-31-2014, 08:57 AM
I would first prime the pad with PF2500 - enough to ensure that the whole surface has polish on it - don't over-saturate.

I then like to blow out any excess with compressed air, then place 3 to 4 dime sized drops of product on the pad. Then map out the working area by dabbing the pad on the paint - I usually go for a section about 3 pads wide by 3 pads deep - so when using 5.5" pads I will be working around 16.5" x 16.5", 4" pads, 12" x 12" etc.

This then gives me a visual area of where I will be polishing and helps prevent buffer creep, and ensures the product is evenly spread out across the area to be polished.

Then I turn the machine onto speed 5 and make 2 really slow section passes (1 to 1.5" / second), blow out the pad (to remove old polish residue and the actual paint you have just sanded off the car), then go straight back and make another 4 or so passes at a slower machine speed (like speed 4) - by slowing the machine down you should see an improvement in the finish, as the manner in which the pad is now oscillating is a lot less 'wild'.

Then being VW paint (I assume you mean a VW Gti) it *should* be on the harder side. But remember to ALWAYS do a test spot starting with your least aggressive combo first (in case the paint is actually soft).

Hope this helps a little:xyxthumbs:

jetta3guy8913
04-12-2014, 04:30 PM
Well I finally got around to using the buffer and the pf2500. I decided to try it out on my wife's car before trying it on my baby. I must say it was very easy to work with and did a great job, I wasn't expecting all the swirls and scratches out because she is known to take the car through the car wash. I did the hood on the car because I know the paint is in bad condition peeling in places from the drive thrus and all. The only issues i had were keeping the pad spinning at all times and remembering to keep the cord over my shoulder. Great product and easy to use.

lawrenceSA
04-14-2014, 02:28 AM
Nice to hear you enjoyed using the product and had success with it :dblthumb2:

Faris63
04-14-2014, 05:48 AM
It's very nice product to use as 1-step polisher on soft paints, but as lawrenceSA stated that your VW paint on the hard side you might need FG400 to remove all defects. Do a test spot first using PF2500 and see if that with get to the result your looking for :xyxthumbs:

Lakeside Detail
04-14-2014, 06:30 AM
I used this product to restore the oxidized single stage paint on a john deere 4120. It work great!

Just02896
04-14-2014, 06:45 AM
Menzerna products are top notch and a staple in my arsenal! Sonax also makes great products with long working times!

Gokite
04-29-2014, 04:49 PM
Flat or CCS doesn't matter. Just work menzerna until it starts clearing up.