Help with best results for single stage white paint needed

[Matti]

Hi All,
New detailer here.

Going to be starting work on my Filthy 2011 Jeep Wrangler.\
White Code PW7 - single stage paint(i think)

I have been reading alot and i think i have the products and steps down properly.
Please let me know is something seems odd or i could be doing it better.

Pre-rinse mud
Hand Wash with Duragloss #901
Clay Bar with BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant and BLACKFIRE CLAYBAR
RINSE
Wash with Duragloss PreCleaner #652
Apply Duragloss Marine RV Polish #501
RINSE
Apply Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601
Let dry to hase
Apply Duragloss Clear Coat Polish #111
Hand Buff with Microfiber
Wait 24 hours
Apply Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)

Does that sound right?

Should i use Apply Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)?

Should i be using a power buffer or am i ok doing all by hand ?

Any comments or help would be appreciated.Feed back please

[Mike Phillips]

That looks like a recipe for success!


I always recommend doing a Test Spot with the product you're planning on using all over the entire car to make sure you're getting the results you hope and dream about before actually taking them to the entire car.

Also, when you ask about a "power buffer", if by power buffer you mean a rotary buffer, looks like this,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1676/medium/1965_Mustang_Wetsand_Autogeek_007.jpg



I'd say avoid using a rotary buffer with these products on your car unless you have years of experience and even then I would opt for something with a lot less power like a Porter Cable 7424XP



:)

[Mike Phillips]

Also,

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


I saw this post this morning but myself and everyone here at AG is busy with processing everything that happened out our 9th Annual Detail Fest over this last weekend or normally I jump right on new threads with zero replies.

Especially for brand new members.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2014-autogeek-detailfest/77406-official-2014-detail-fest-photos-day-1-a.html

I took your duplicate post of this one and moved it to the Moderator's forum to avoid any confusion.


:xyxthumbs:

[Matti]

Should i use Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)?

i will have to look at that Porter Cable 7424XP

[Mike Phillips]

Should i use Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)?

i will have to look at that Porter Cable 7424XP


Tend and to be a "systems guy" that is I'll tend to use products all from the same brand for the whole idea of a

Synergistic Chemical Compatibility


Sometimes that's not always possible as not every brand has a complete line. This forces me/we/us to go outside the line to get the products we need for a particular project.


Both the products you mention are great products and have very strong and loyal users so you can't go wrong with either.

Here's something else I always recommend to people if they've never used a wax, sealant or coating before,


A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/37279-tip-working-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings-new-you.html)


Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off, first test the product to a small area.

This way you'll be familiar with the application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.


A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/930/MicrofiberTowel001.jpg


Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.


Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.

Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.


The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove, The Swipe Test


Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.


Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.

Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.


The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.


For some people, what this may teach them is the importance of applying a thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.


:xyxthumbs:

[Matti]

Alright, looks like most of my items have arrived in the mail today
Just waiting on the PC XP and a few pads.

Just looking for someone to check my steps here:

Pre-rinse mud (trust me its a jeep there is lots)
Hand Wash with Duragloss #901
Clay Bar with BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant and BLACKFIRE CLAYBAR
RINSE
Apply Duragloss PreCleaner #652 (Not sure of the correct way to apply this)
Apply Duragloss Marine RV Polish #501 (Not sure of the correct way to apply this)
RINSE (Do i need this step)
Apply Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601 by hand
Let dry to hase
Apply Duragloss Clear Coat Polish #111 (Using XP)
Hand Buff with Microfiber
Wait 24 hours
Apply Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)

Looking for any feedback at all on these steps.

Is the order correct ? Should i be doing any mixing of the products? Also any hints on pressure, amount of product and # of passes for each product would be a huge help here..... i'm a total noob

I hope my supplier has AW back in stock or i will have to use my C845

[richy]

Alright, looks like most of my items have arrived in the mail today
Just waiting on the PC XP and a few pads.

Just looking for someone to check my steps here:

Pre-rinse mud (trust me its a jeep there is lots)
Hand Wash with Duragloss #901
Clay Bar with BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant and BLACKFIRE CLAYBAR
RINSE
Apply Duragloss PreCleaner #652 (Not sure of the correct way to apply this)
Apply Duragloss Marine RV Polish #501 (Not sure of the correct way to apply this)
RINSE (Do i need this step)
Apply Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601 by hand
Let dry to hase
Apply Duragloss Clear Coat Polish #111 (Using XP)
Hand Buff with Microfiber
Wait 24 hours
Apply Duragloss Aquawax #951 or Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845)

Looking for any feedback at all on these steps.

Is the order correct ? Should i be doing any mixing of the products? Also any hints on pressure, amount of product and # of passes for each product would be a huge help here..... i'm a total noob

I hope my supplier has AW back in stock or i will have to use my C845

Thanks for your PM; I'd be happy to chime in with my $.02.

First, you've got a few year old white car...what immediately comes to mind is decontamination, namely IronX. Get some. You will have a purple Jeep, guaranteed, especially if you are seeing small brown dots all over the paint. You can also use IX in conjunction with a clay bar or clay mf towel. That's the first and important step you need to do.

Secondly, 501 is a great cleaner, but it works much better by using a machine (DA or Random Orbital polisher). I always suggest a white LCC or Buff & Shine pad (I like 5") with the 601. BTW, when you use 501, you will want to mix it in a (disposable) bottle with 601 at a 4:1 ratio of 501:601. I use Dollar Store plastic ketchup bottles. Just do it by eye is good enough. I wrote a big post on the advantages of that a while ago here (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/products-guides/26536-combining-duragloss-601-105-501-a.html). There are many advantages to it and the only disadvanrage is a shortened shelf life. You will be buffing this off once it hazes. Do a swipe test to determine timing.

I've never used 652, but I would test a spot using it followed by 501 or just 501. You may not need to do both. You will be disgusted at what 501 pulls out of your paint! Also, it's up to you how much time you want to invest in the other step. You can choose seeing the results of your test spot to see whether it's worthwhile or not. Again, I'd use a DA or 652, and I'd get another white pad for it too.

When you use 111, again, combine it with 601 in a disposable bottle. Try to mix only what you need. Make sure you do your wheels with the 501 and 111 stages too! The advantage of mixing is you can now follow these steps with Collinite immediately and do not have to wait.

When you are using these products via machine (you don't need to with 111/601), you don't need a lot of pressure. I'd suggest a speed of 5, and keep the machine moving. There are some good instructional videos on YT. Watch some so you get the idea.

I'd say the Collinite stage is optional, but it is worthwhile. Thin to win on that product for sure! AW is a great product to use after every 2nd wash or so. It's also a great drying aid to help lessen washing marring.


I hope that helped. PM me if you've got more Q's.
:props:

[215Detailing]

Tend and to be a "systems guy" that is I'll tend to use products all from the same brand for the whole idea of a

Synergistic Chemical Compatibility


Sometimes that's not always possible as not every brand has a complete line. This forces me/we/us to go outside the line to get the products we need for a particular project.


Both the products you mention are great products and have very strong and loyal users so you can't go wrong with either.

Here's something else I always recommend to people if they've never used a wax, sealant or coating before,


A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/37279-tip-working-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings-new-you.html)


Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off, first test the product to a small area.

This way you'll be familiar with the application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.


A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/930/MicrofiberTowel001.jpg


Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.


Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.

Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.


The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove, The Swipe Test


Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.


Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.

Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.


The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.


For some people, what this may teach them is the importance of applying a thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.


:xyxthumbs:

Good morning Mike, while reading your reply, I recall an old timer telling me the term SIMONIZ (REALLY MEANS DETAILING) because they had the field covered products for just about everything, and one company product use DETAILING : (SIMONIZ SYSTEM)

(Tend and to be a "systems guy" that is I'll tend to use products all from the same brand for the whole idea of a

Synergistic Chemical Compatibility

Sometimes that's not always possible as not every brand has a complete line. This forces me/we/us to go outside the line to get the products we need for a particular project.)

[dad07]

Hi Matti,

I got your pm and I'm sorry for the delay.

Richy gave you run down on the DG products and how to use them, I agree with his advice.

As far as 652 goes that will be a waisted step since you are using 501.

I would also recommend Ironx.

The good thing about using DG products mixed (as Richy recommended) you do NOT have to wait ( for it to cure) between steps.

I hoped this helped and Welcome to AGO.

If you have any more questions I'm just a pm away.

[Matti]

Thanks for all the help everyone, let me see if i got this right now ...


Pre-rinse mud
Hand Wash with Duragloss #901
Apply Iron-X as per directions
Clay Bar with BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant and BLACKFIRE CLAYBAR
RINSE
Apply Duragloss 501/601 mixed 4:1 with 7424XP and White pad
Let Dry to haze
Hand Buff with microfiber
Apply Duragloss 111/601 mixed 4:1 7424XP and White pad
Let Dry to haze
Hand Buff with microfiber
Have a beer or 2
Apply Collinite 845 as per : http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Does that sound right ?

[dad07]

Thanks for all the help everyone, let me see if i got this right now ...


Pre-rinse mud
Hand Wash with Duragloss #901
Apply Iron-X as per directions
Clay Bar with BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant and BLACKFIRE CLAYBAR
RINSE
Apply Duragloss 501/601 mixed 4:1 with 7424XP and White pad
Let Dry to haze
Hand Buff with microfiber
Apply Duragloss 111/601 mixed 4:1 7424XP and White pad
Let Dry to haze
Hand Buff with microfiber
Have a beer or 2
Apply Collinite 845 as per : http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Does that sound right ?

Now that's a great plan!

Just remember with 845 thin is in....but thinner is a winner!