trouble with Menz SF4500 via FLEX

[The Enforcer]

So, I'm working on a black S2000, and my typical M205 will not finish this car down hologram free, paint is way too soft. So, I got some Menz SF4500 in hopes it would work great. Now, up until this point I have ZERO experience with DAT polishes and compounds, since I have always been a M105/205 guy.

I am applying the SF4500 with a crimson LC hydro pad. Priming the pad as usual, and applying 3 SMALL dots. It was my understanding that you work the product in on speed 4 or so, make 4 section passes with moderate pressure and slow arm speed. Then, back off on the pressure, bump the speed up, and make faster passes until the polishes basically clears out.

I can not get this stuff to break down to save my life. I've fooled with it all afternoon with no luck at all. I've tried less polish, more polish, and all kinds of different techniques and contune to get the same results....a polish that is not broken down and hard as concrete to remove...with nothing but hazy paint left to show for it.


The following picture is after I literally worked this one panel for over 7 minutes. I'm frustrated as hell, what am I doing wrong? I called several people and they assure me I am doing things right, and they are lost as well.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/kyles2000z/IMG_20140316_144944_426_zps981947b9.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/kyles2000z/media/IMG_20140316_144944_426_zps981947b9.jpg.html)

If I have read and listened correctly, my process should yield a polish that has nearly disappeared and should be smooth as butter to remove. Quite the opposite in reality though...thanks in advance for the help!

[Just02896]

This is odd! Any after pics to show the hazing left behind? You should be using a soft foam pad with Menz 4500, not a cutting pad. I've used Menz 4000 on my black ram truck with mirror like results. Your pictures that you may be using too much product as well.

[aim4squirrels]

Crimson is the finishing pad.

Cold temps can make it hard to produce the heat needed to break DAT polishes down. It's harder still if you are using the 3401 vs. a rotary like the pe-14.

That being said, SF4500 is so fine you probably don't have to work it to completion. Wipe it off and see if you are getting the result you want.

[The Enforcer]

I have a rotary as well, but I'm afrad this soft black Honda paint doesn't like rotary!!!

[Wes Bremec]

Okay I had a very similar situation and I found two options that both worked for me. You need to change the action of your machine due to too many variables. If you want an explanation pm me. If you have a free spindle da or as you said a rotory try using that and do a test spot.

Also set up some lighting on the panels so you can actually get a visual on the polish breaking down. you are taking guesses when you don't have proper lighting. Typically with finishing polishes you want to decrease the speed, this will reduce your chance of anything left behind.

[Bunky]

I would guess you are really over priming the pad given the long working times and lack of results. Get a fresh pad and reduce the initial amount to 5 to 6 dabs of polish. Spread with the polisher at low speed.. If you cannot cover the paint uniformly add a little more polish but you need to get so it actually break down before dialing the process even more. With the right amount of polish for the area being polished, it should break down in 7 to 8 passes at speed 5 or so.

[VISITOR]

just goes to show that having a variety of different polishes/compounds for different situations is a good idea. no one scenario is going to work all the time on every car you work on. here's an example below...


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkHoBR7LEVc]Testing HD Adapt with my Rupes 15 on my '12 Mustang GT - YouTube[/video]

So i removed my 5.0 badges to paint. I scratched up the area using crap towels cleaning off all the adhesive. I used my Rupes 15 with a blue Buff n Shine pad and HD Adapt. I have used alot of different products for final polish on this cars paint and its very soft and picky. I have tried CG V36 on a black BuffnShine and it marred it up aso Optimum Final polish II as well on a crimson Hydrotech and it marred it as well. This HD Adapt removed moderate defects and leaving a perfect marr free finish. call me impressed

[Andr3wilson]

If it's not wiping off and sticking to the paint, use a hot wet MF to dissolve it off the paint. This is very typical.

[The Enforcer]

I know one process isn't going to work on every car. I'm not new to correcting paint. I usually tackle 2 full corrections per week, all while working a 45 hr fulltime job. I've been doing this for around 5 years now, this just happened to be my first try with the Menzerna stuff. My arsenal consists of: M81, M85, M95, M100, M101, M105, M205, D300, D151, OPT Poliseal, Menz FG400, and now Menz SF4500. Thanks for the insight!

I have fluorescent wall lighting similar to a paint booth to do all my work in, so I can see the polish very well, it just isn't breaking down!

[The Enforcer]

That HD Adapt looks pretty awesome though I've heard nothing but great stuff about it!

[WRAPT C5Z06]

BLACKFIRE SRC finishing polish is awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wes Bremec]

We can talk about this and that all day, untill you change your process you'll never know.!

[Cathul]

In Germany Menzerna recommends fairly hard pads for all their finishing polishes. Their own finishing pad is similar to an orange Lake Country pad. They have a soft pad, but Menzerna recommends this only for their sealants.