I have a few questions about DA polishing.

[flugufrelsarinn]

Iam having trouble getting good paint correction with my PC. There is always some holograms after polishing, even with Menzerna 2500 and 4500. I am guessing it is my technique. I have read a bunch of guides and watched videos, but I still have some questions.

How fast should the pad be spinning? I have a mark on the pad that I make sure doesn't stop.

When do I stop polishing? I don't know when the product has hazed over. It all looks the same to me. I just did 5-6 passes.

[Tato]

Hmm, good question, you'll have to try some more until you get the feel for it... I'll give some tips to see if I can help, but hope more people come to help us out.

I've started using Meguiar's SMAT (super micro abrasives) that I think it's easier to use from the start, because there's no thing such as 'breaking down abrasives' or working product throughout it's whole cycle. Mainly, I used (still use them sometimes) M105 or Ultimate Compound, M205 or Ultimate Polish, any of the 4.

You just put on speed 6, do your passes slowly with pressure and stop when you think you're done.

When I've switched to Menzerna (reading all good comments regarding it), I've started to have problems like you're relating, and more, like caked polish on paint very difficult to remove, and not achieving results like I wish.

I don't want to discourage you (in CONTRARY!), it took some time until I finally realize how to do it the right way. That's why I've said you'll have to be patient and try some more until you get it.

IMO, Menzerna (mainly polishing and cutting products) needs to be 'punched' in the first few passes so you can get it going through it's cycle. Being that said, I generally use a lot more pressure and polisher speed (and sloooooow arm movement) on first 2-3 passes. That's what I mean by 'punched'. Once you've done that, you can reduce pressure a bit and (still slowly, but not too slow), keep doing the remaining passes because they brake down to finer polishes. That time I work them like working a polish, not more a compound, until I finish.

That said, you have to do your best on first passes to get the better cut of it, while still start breaking the abrasives to follow the cycle through the end. I generally end up slowing polisher speed and lowering pressure (also increase arm speed) to finish down to a thin film of product, a breeze to remove.

Also try to regulate how you're priming your pad. I'm actually doing 'Smack's Technique', which (one part) consists of priming the pad using a light mist of detailer spray and 4 dime size drops to start, then I add little product to following passes. Keep the pad as clean as you can.

Menzerna are the kind of product that 'likes to be underused (in quantity) and overworked'. I work then for 6 - 8 passes when possible, but results worth a 2-step correction/polish in 1-step.

Once you get the feel, you'll have stunning results. After knowing better how to use them, Menzerna became the first polishes I grab when detailing.

The pad spinning issue is easy to understand. If you're using a large pad on a PC (like 6.5"), you'll struggle to correct if defects are severe .

Why do I say that? Being the spinning of the PC machine 'free of gears', a large and thick pad will absorb much of spinning, so when you are using the correct pressure to correct, pad will barely spin and in reality you'll barely correct.

For PC style machines, smaller (and thinner) pads and backing plates are the way to go, since you can get decent amount of pad rotation at higher speeds and pressure, so you'll correct like a pro reducing your pad and work area size.

To get the 'dimension' of how the pad should spin, take a look at some FLEX 3401 polisher videos (Mike Phillips have one that's great), and try to get the closer you can from that rotation. That's the optimal in my opinion.

Here's the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Arn_kVH3BVc#t=548

I've tried to put it at 9:00 minutes when the correction phase begins, if not start there, go to 9:00 and like 'He' said, - 'Watch This' lol

For sure I'm not comparing both machines and telling you to try to spin a PC like the Flex, also he's using larger pads with the flex. You'll be able to get similar rotation with your PC using the smaller pads I've talked about, and work slightly small area than you see on video to get proper correction if defects are severe. I also recommend you to move slowly then Mike's moving.

You can also take advantage of MF cutting pads that are essentially thin and spins easier, also the MF material tends to cut more than foam.

That said, you can try to correct using MF and finish down with foam.

Hope I've helped,

Please, tell me if anything needed.


PS: I ask to not take my comments literally like a rule or the 'right way to do it', just take your time to assimilate all information, I've tried to write many 'keywords' for you to go after more info and finally only make some adjustments to your actual technique.

Kind Regards.

[mac11wildcat]

Iam having trouble getting good paint correction with my PC. There is always some holograms after polishing, even with Menzerna 2500 and 4500. I am guessing it is my technique. I have read a bunch of guides and watched videos, but I still have some questions.

How fast should the pad be spinning? I have a mark on the pad that I make sure doesn't stop.

When do I stop polishing? I don't know when the product has hazed over. It all looks the same to me. I just did 5-6 passes.

^^ Good advice to start with.

Your final speed will change with the machine youre using, the product, the finish, etc. Its a feel thing; not a science. Keep the pad flat, and only increase pressure up until a point. If it isnt working you probably need a heavier pad/polish as opposed to more pressure. If its getting rid of defects but not polishing nicely you may need another pad/product combo for a final polish.

Hard to tell without knowing what pad youre using or seeing your technique.

[Tato]

^^ Good advice to follow with.

You've wrote important data regarding pad flat, not rocket science, and the amount of pressure.

I prefer to say 'FIRM' pressure than Heavy, and I have in mind what I've read from a pro (can't remember who exactly), ~ " if you're thinking of building a platform to stand over your polisher to increase pressure, you're going the wrong way ".

Nice point, thanks for adding to my write.

Kind Regards.