mankool
03-07-2014, 02:21 PM
Hi Guys,
Posting my first question at AGO after almost 2 years of membership. Most of this time I have been reading and experimenting on my own cars and today I have a tough nut to crack, hence this post.
I own a Renault Clio 182, 2006 and I have had this car for a couple of years now. I recently attempted to correct the paint on this car and I reaslied that the paint on this particular car is as hard as rock.
I need tips on how I can make this correction easier and less time consuming using the tools that I currently have. I would like to point out that it took me almost 2-3 hours to get the right combination to cut through the bonnet of the car.
Following are the different combinations I used to correct the paint on this car:
1. Makita 9227C + 3M Fast Cut (09374) + Makita Wool Pad
2. Makita + 3M Fast Cut + Menz White Compound Pad (very hard)
3. Menz FG500 + Menz White Compound pad
4. Makita + 3M Fine Cut + Makita Wool Pad
5. Makita + Menz FG500 + Menz White Compound pad
6. Makita + FG500 + CG Yellow Hex Pad
7. Flex 3401 + Menz FG500 + CG Yellow Hex Pad
Now, the order I tested these was from combo #5 to Combo#1 i.e. least abbrasive first and then the most abbrasive combination I had at my disposal. I have to say that the first combination was the by far the fastest in terms of achieving the best cut but then the Fast Cut compound left some RIDs, if I may say, on the paint. Mind you, this if the Fast Cut compound and not the Fast Cut plus so I'm assuming there is definitely a difference between the two as the product numbers also vary. However, I did not like this combination because it was not comfortable to use; the wool pad was quite big and it doesn't leave you with a lot of room if you are working on the vertical panels. I prefered the third combo, which is the Makita with the Menz White Pad and Menz FG500. However, it seems the Menz did not have the steam to cut through the paint and I had to go over the panel a number of times to get a decent correction.
I was not inclined to use the 3M combo with the Menz cause this compound, which I refer to as 'The Animal', left some scratches of its own. And if you have happedned to use this compound, you will noticed that its texture is very granular and you can actually feel the small grains, or whatever it is, to the touch.
Any tips and suggestions on how I can go about with this correction? I have managed to compound the roof, the bonnet and the right fender and I was a 'reck' after working on these panels. Oh, and the roof was covered in oxidation and I really had to work hard on that part. I also noticed some clear coat cracks on the roof but .... puff ... I can live with those.
Now, time for some pics:
The bonnet lip, all swirled up:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/00118.jpg
Bonnet area near the windscreen washer:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/00320.jpg
Close up of the oxidation on the roof
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/004-Roof_Oxidation.jpg
Before After of the Roof (not the best of pics really)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/012-Before-After.jpg
You will notice a small 'burn' mark near the windscreen washer. This appeared while I was working with the one of the foam pads. My guess is that it was a result of the heat that was generated from the pad. I am planning to sand it down and see if I can get rid of it. Open to suggestions :Dhttp://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC_04772.JPG
Here is a close up of the smear near the windscreen washer area
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/009-Hood_Smear_Zoom.jpg
And ofcourse, the hood doesn't look this good after using the 3M Fast Cut or even the the FG500. I had to go over it using the Menz PF2300 followed by Menz SF4000.
There might be some other details that I may have missed out but feel free to ask :)
Thank You,
Ahmed
Posting my first question at AGO after almost 2 years of membership. Most of this time I have been reading and experimenting on my own cars and today I have a tough nut to crack, hence this post.
I own a Renault Clio 182, 2006 and I have had this car for a couple of years now. I recently attempted to correct the paint on this car and I reaslied that the paint on this particular car is as hard as rock.
I need tips on how I can make this correction easier and less time consuming using the tools that I currently have. I would like to point out that it took me almost 2-3 hours to get the right combination to cut through the bonnet of the car.
Following are the different combinations I used to correct the paint on this car:
1. Makita 9227C + 3M Fast Cut (09374) + Makita Wool Pad
2. Makita + 3M Fast Cut + Menz White Compound Pad (very hard)
3. Menz FG500 + Menz White Compound pad
4. Makita + 3M Fine Cut + Makita Wool Pad
5. Makita + Menz FG500 + Menz White Compound pad
6. Makita + FG500 + CG Yellow Hex Pad
7. Flex 3401 + Menz FG500 + CG Yellow Hex Pad
Now, the order I tested these was from combo #5 to Combo#1 i.e. least abbrasive first and then the most abbrasive combination I had at my disposal. I have to say that the first combination was the by far the fastest in terms of achieving the best cut but then the Fast Cut compound left some RIDs, if I may say, on the paint. Mind you, this if the Fast Cut compound and not the Fast Cut plus so I'm assuming there is definitely a difference between the two as the product numbers also vary. However, I did not like this combination because it was not comfortable to use; the wool pad was quite big and it doesn't leave you with a lot of room if you are working on the vertical panels. I prefered the third combo, which is the Makita with the Menz White Pad and Menz FG500. However, it seems the Menz did not have the steam to cut through the paint and I had to go over the panel a number of times to get a decent correction.
I was not inclined to use the 3M combo with the Menz cause this compound, which I refer to as 'The Animal', left some scratches of its own. And if you have happedned to use this compound, you will noticed that its texture is very granular and you can actually feel the small grains, or whatever it is, to the touch.
Any tips and suggestions on how I can go about with this correction? I have managed to compound the roof, the bonnet and the right fender and I was a 'reck' after working on these panels. Oh, and the roof was covered in oxidation and I really had to work hard on that part. I also noticed some clear coat cracks on the roof but .... puff ... I can live with those.
Now, time for some pics:
The bonnet lip, all swirled up:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/00118.jpg
Bonnet area near the windscreen washer:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/00320.jpg
Close up of the oxidation on the roof
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/004-Roof_Oxidation.jpg
Before After of the Roof (not the best of pics really)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/012-Before-After.jpg
You will notice a small 'burn' mark near the windscreen washer. This appeared while I was working with the one of the foam pads. My guess is that it was a result of the heat that was generated from the pad. I am planning to sand it down and see if I can get rid of it. Open to suggestions :Dhttp://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC_04772.JPG
Here is a close up of the smear near the windscreen washer area
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/009-Hood_Smear_Zoom.jpg
And ofcourse, the hood doesn't look this good after using the 3M Fast Cut or even the the FG500. I had to go over it using the Menz PF2300 followed by Menz SF4000.
There might be some other details that I may have missed out but feel free to ask :)
Thank You,
Ahmed