Coatings on single stage paints

[74 thing]

I was wondering what your experience has been using coatings on single stage paints? I know that single stages tend to oxidize and get that chalky look to them if they are not fed the oils that they need (ie Meguiars #7), and I was wondering if the coatings help stop this from happening.

Most coating appear to be made for a base coat/clear coat paint.

Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

I was wondering what your experience has been using coatings on single stage paints? I know that single stages tend to oxidize and get that chalky look to them if they are not fed the oils that they need (ie Meguiars #7), and I was wondering if the coatings help stop this from happening.

Most coating appear to be made for a base coat/clear coat paint.

Thanks


I think that depends upon the age of the single stage paint.

An old single stage paint is going to need regular polishing using a product like the #7

A new single stage paint, especially a modern single stage paint which would be urethane instead of lacquer or enamel, will coat just fine in my experience.

Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/67950-detailer-s-paint-coating-single-stage-paint.html)



Forum member Eric aka ekennett stopped by Autogeek today while he was in town as he asked if he could test out the Flex 3401 and the Rupes Bigfoot polishers. So I have this 1932 Ford Phaeton in the studio for some work and I let him test these two polishers out on the hood of the hotrod.

After testing the polishers I let him test out the Detailer’s Coating Prep Polish by hand and machine, followed by the Detailer’s Paint Coating.

He said he would chime in later with this thoughts and I'll post some more pictures later but here's a few shots of some of the action taking place at AGO today...


Eric, aka ekennett just finished polishing the hood. Eric tried out the Flex 3401 optimized and the Rupes Bigfoot 21 optimized and I think he chose and purchased the Flex 3401 before leaving today.


Eric using the Flex 3401 Optimized and also with the Wolfgang Twins

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_001.jpg


Eric using the Rupes Bigfoot 21 Optimized and also with Rupes pads and polishes

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_002.jpg


He also tried out the new Detailer’s Coating Prep Polish and Detailer’s Paint Coating on this SINGLE STAGE paint system he just polished.


Eric applying Detailer's Coating Prep Polish by hand

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_003.jpg



Eric applying Detailer's Coating Prep Polish by machine

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_004.jpg



Eric dampening a clean, dry gold Finger Pocket with Detailer’s Paint Coating

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_005.jpg


Gently applying the coating...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_006.jpg


Glassy looking...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1957/1932_Ford_Phaeton_007.jpg



Thanks for your help today Eric, I hope you had fun testing out the Rupes and Flex polishers as well as the new products from Detailer's Pro Series.



:)

[eds72]

I think that depends upon the age of the single stage paint.

An old single stage paint is going to need regular polishing using a product like the #7

A new single stage paint, especially a modern single stage paint which would be urethane instead of lacquer or enamel, will coat just fine in my experience.

So do I read this correctly in that modern ss paint is a urethane base and does not benefit like older ss paint from the #7? I have a 2006 Toyota that is ss, and have wondered if there would be any benefit to incorporating #7 into my next detail.

[The Enforcer]

nice info here! I'm correcting a white ss 09 Camry today and was also wondering if it would benefit from the opti-coat

[Mike Phillips]

So do I read this correctly in that modern ss paint is a urethane base and does not benefit like older ss paint from the #7?



Not exactly...

Most modern single stage paints being sprayed in body shops will be a single stage Urethane paint system. Here's an example,

This is Den's 1969 GTO. Den regularly attends our Thursday night projects here at Autogeek and has learned the art of polishing paint so he can maintain a show car finish on the single stage black paint on his restorod GTO


Back in Black! 1969 GTO!!! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/73934-back-black-1969-gto.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2183/Dens_1969_GTO_003.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2183/Dens_1969_GTO_005.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2183/Dens_1969_GTO_007.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/2183/Dens_1969_GTO_012.jpg



The above is just a little from the thread, it's totally worthy of a read-through....

Back in Black! 1969 GTO!!! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/73934-back-black-1969-gto.html)



SOME shops are still spraying old school solvent evaporation lacquers and enamels by customer request or in their own garage as these paints are still available.


The answer to you question is that any single stage paint that is neglected would benefit from an application of #7.

If your single stage urethane paint is BRAND SPANKING NEW then it should already be in GREAT SHAPE and for this reason it shouldn't need anything to help it.

Make sense?

You ask a great question but I need to lay out the context of the question a little for everyone that will read this thread into the future.

If I owned a car with an OLDER single stage paint that was in neglected condition then "yes" I would rub her down with the #7 because the oils can penetrate into single stage paints where they can affect the pigments. Not so with a clearcoat as the clear layer is too dense.

I explain how this works via capillary action in my article here,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html)








I have a 2006 Toyota that is ss, and have wondered if there would be any benefit to incorporating #7 into my next detail.



Has the paint been neglected? Is it dried-out and oxidized?


:)

[Mike Phillips]

nice info here! I'm correcting a white ss 09 Camry today and was also wondering if it would benefit from the opti-coat


A few years ago I asked Dr. David Ghodoussi about using Opti Coat II on single stage paint and he told me he formulated it for clearcoats.

I used it on a new singles stage paint system that I polished to perfection and it seemed to apply and cure just fine.

If this is the product you want to use and the paint is perfected before hand I would say go for it.


:)

[nivraarvin1]

December last year, I Opti Coated my 2011 Mitsubishi L200 with single stage Rosita Red paint. I went the Opti Coat route because I rather polish out a layer of Opti Coat than polish and remove the original single stage paint every time I get swirls or scratches.

The only regret that I have is that, I should have Opti Coated my car much sooner.

[eds72]

Has the paint been neglected? Is it dried-out and oxidized?
:)

Certainly not to the extent typically seen when people use these terms. It's a 2006 that I bought from the original owner in July 2012. I think he was pretty typical of many owners out there - very good about keeping up on maintenance items, but the paint probably never saw a polisher or a quality LSP until I purchased it. Washes were probably at the local swirl-o-matic.

There just seems to be something missing. I know white will never have the wow factor of other colors. I just have not been able to acheive the "richness" I've seen on other well polished white vehicles, and wondered if perhaps this modern ss paint might benefit from the #7.

[Znig22]

Great information here. So the question remains, if the single stage is newer, say mid 2000's and up and has been neglected to the point of chalkiness and is polished out to a high gloss and prepped properly can Opti Coat be applied without incident?

[Mike Phillips]

I just have not been able to achieve the "richness" I've seen on other well polished white vehicles, and wondered if perhaps this modern ss paint might benefit from the #7.




What have you done to the paint so far as it relates to polishing it and restoring it since you bought it?


You can get a lot of gloss and shine out of white paint but it all starts with decontaminating and polishing.


:)

[FUNX650]

A few years ago I asked Dr. David Ghodoussi about using Opti Coat II on single stage paint and he told me he formulated it for clearcoats.

I used it on a new singles stage paint system that I polished to perfection and it seemed to apply and cure just fine.

If this is the product you want to use and the paint is perfected before hand I would say go for it.


:)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/77270-single-stage-paint-can-t-coated.html

Here's some information regarding OC and SS paint systems:
__________________________________________________

Originally Posted by CEE DOG
Q & A with Dr. G of Optimum:

3. Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be applied to single stage paints of any age?

-Opti-Coat 2.0 was designed for clearcoat paint and it should be applied after the paint defects are removed.
We have not done any long term testing with this product on single stage paint.

There are several professional detailers that have applied Opti-Coat to single stage paint after removing all the defects and oxidation with great results.
They might be able to provide more information on this application

but the main purpose of this product is to protect clearcoat from the elements and premature failure due to over-polishing.


4.-Consider a car with older single stage paint that is badly oxidized and faded and then polished to perfection and brought back to glossy condition. Can Opti-Coat 2.0 lock in the gloss or have any effect stopping the paint from regressing to its faded condition?

Please refer to the previous answer.
__________________________________________________

Bob

[Mike Phillips]

Good cyber sleuthing Bob....



:xyxthumbs:

[eds72]

What have you done to the paint so far as it relates to polishing it and restoring it since you bought it?


You can get a lot of gloss and shine out of white paint but it all starts with decontaminating and polishing.


:)

Last summer I did the following:

Wash
Clay
Megs UC with tangerine HT pad
Megs UP with tangerine HT pad
DG 111 / 601

Not quite satisfied, I thought perhaps a dedicated paint cleaner might help. Did a test spot with DG 501 then reapplied 111 / 601 combo. I did not see a noticeable difference, and assumed the UC/UP did an effective job cleaning the paint. I also topped half the hood with Collinite 845 which did not seem to make a noticeable difference.

Under just the right lighting, I can see some swirling that remains. This fooled me initially as it is very hard to see. It can only be seen from the right angle under direct bright sunlight, but once spotted it does appear significant. I have read that Toyota white is very hard, so a logical thing to try is a step up to a cyan HT with the UC. I am always hesitant to get too aggressive, but it seems that in this case it may be warranted. When I saw this thread it made me wonder if perhaps a "feeding" with #7 might be helpful even though my paint doesn't really appear neglected or oxidized.

[Mike Phillips]

When I saw this thread it made me wonder if perhaps a "feeding" with #7 might be helpful even though my paint doesn't really appear neglected or oxidized.




It couldn't hurt to try. I'd apply using a foam polishing pad on speed 4-5.

Maybe just do the hood then inspect?


:)