Advice: Help me with my very first paint correction.

[MitchLiving]

OK guys i've been doing my homework something serious and i'm excited to do my first paint correction. This is a Co-workers car which he purchased used not to long ago so he didn't own it from new.
He knows this will be my first time doing this and he knows the paint looks like Chit already so nothing that much worse can come out of me trying to make it look better.
I am doing this for him for FREE as it is my first time as I need something decent to practice on. Yes I know the amount of time it takes to paint correct. (HOURS ON END)
I've looked at enough back from the dead detail pictures from you guys (such talent) to know I can make this car look MUCH better than it is now.
A quick side note, My 2000 Maxima which was repainted last year will be on this site soon for Cut and Buff advice session as well. Stay tuned for the pictures on that.

I have a Griots polisher on it's way with 6.5" discs and yes, I am ordering the 5.5 backing plate.
With the GG6 I have the Meg's 105 - 205 polishing compounds.
I don't own any other pads besides what is coming with my GG6 which as I stated before are 6.5 disks.

I will have many questions for you guys as you look at the MANY pictures and help me decide how i am going to attack this Mustang.
It's a 97 mustang and from the pictures it's obviously never been touched by anything outside of rain and maybe a drive-thru car wash. I washed the car the night before so you can see the paint as best as possible.
As you look at this paint what will be the best thing to do and NOT to do.

I don't know if I will get a clay bar or the Nanoskin cloth you guys can chime in on this as well.
I will seal this car as i will not be reapplying wax every 3-4 week.

It looks like factory paint to me and I did Mike.P reading on factory paint and my question is, Is there anywhere on this car that I should hit with sand paper VERY LIGHTLY 3k grit and up knowing that the clear will be thin not to mention old and mistreated.
Couple of notes from the pictures.
I have NO clue what that circle looking defect is on the hood.. Oxidation? Clear coat failure?

Roof of the car towards back window, Oxidation?

The obvious front bumper, i have NO clue what that stuff is.
I washed the car it didn't come off, feel rough to the touch.

Whom ever would like to please by all means respond with a list of things YOU would do and the products that you would use. Steps to take ect.
I know a two bucket wash and some kind've Clay bar or Nanoskin on the paint are the first couple of steps.

So guys, my mind and eyes are wide open. ! Thanks in advance for the help.

[jamesboyy]

You have your hands full there but from what I see in pictures 13 through 15 is etching from bird droppings,etc if it was me I would take some meguiars m105 on a microfiber towel, and by hand try to remove the etching first the front bumpers look like scrapes or something but as for the clay I would go with the nanoskin clay mitt/eraser.

[cardaddy]

Mitch your in Ga, right? Athens yes?

As long as your in the Atl area codes with your cell, or if its long distance and your on AT&T I have free AT&T long distance. You can call me any time and we'll work on a plan of attack.

If you want to come down, LMK anf we cam work that out too. I'm here all the time, weekdays and weekends.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

[Bob57]

If I were you I would jump on Tony's very generous offer to help!




Bob :)

[GreatAvalon]

How many pads do you have coming? And yes, 100% get clay/nanoskin.

[Sicoupe]

Mitch your in Ga, right? Athens yes?

As long as your in the Atl area codes with your cell, or if its long distance and your on AT&T I have free AT&T long distance. You can call me any time and we'll work on a plan of attack.

If you want to come down, LMK anf we cam work that out too. I'm here all the time, weekdays and weekends.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online man, that is a offer I would not turn down, you are a good man SIR:)

[MitchLiving]

Mitch your in Ga, right? Athens yes?

As long as your in the Atl area codes with your cell, or if its long distance and your on AT&T I have free AT&T long distance. You can call me any time and we'll work on a plan of attack.

If you want to come down, LMK anf we cam work that out too. I'm here all the time, weekdays and weekends.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

Wow what a wonderful offer. I will pm you my number it would be great to learn under someone with the experience.
As in meeting you downtown that will be tough cause its not my car. But as mentioned I will be doing my personal car real soon cut and buff.. would you be willing to help with that one?

[The Guz]

Mitch your in Ga, right? Athens yes?

As long as your in the Atl area codes with your cell, or if its long distance and your on AT&T I have free AT&T long distance. You can call me any time and we'll work on a plan of attack.

If you want to come down, LMK anf we cam work that out too. I'm here all the time, weekdays and weekends.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

I would take him up his offer. Nothing better than working with a pro.

[cardaddy]

If I were you I would jump on Tony's very generous offer to help!

Bob :)


man, that is a offer I would not turn down, you are a good man SIR:)


I would take him up his offer. Nothing better than working with a pro.

Guys, y'all are too kind. :bowdown:

I just thought it would be a good idea when we have new members that are wanting to, and willing to spend quality time with their car. I'm a softie for cars, what can I say. :laughing: Yup, cars, dogs and kittens.... that's me. Im the MAN
Perhaps once CarBoy sees someone else in the garage he'll start coming around a bit. For him all this "detailing" is WORK, and it's work that HE doesn't want to do. (Because it's not HIS idea.) :rolleyes: We keep telling him that it's fun, but he doesn't see it that way. In the interim he wants to make money, just can't figure out what he wants to DO to make money. Keep telling him... this is a lot more fun, pays better, and when the work is there, we can put more hours into one car than he's getting all week at the grocery store! Time will tell guys...... time will surely tell.

[cardaddy]

Got your PM Mitch.

Didn't see the photos earlier, (was on the phone). Boy I don't know about a "paint correction" on that old paint. It can be cleaned up no doubt, but "correction" may not be exactly what it needs, restoration might better describe it. ;)

Those older Fords are known for quite a bit of clear coat failure and delamination, especially when they've not been taken care of. That one doesn't look like it's seen even a coat of wax in YEARS. :eek:

You have a GG6 on order, yes? I'd say start with 12 pads minimum. You are going to need 3~4 of each of your most used pads just to start, then you can pick up more as you get to working different types of paint. Generally speaking I'd say 3 orange, 4 white, 3 pink (ccs pad), 2 blue. That'd be a decent start. If you don't want to get the CCS, then you could do 4 orange, 4 white, 2 blue and 2 black.

Other supplies you'll want right off the bat would be a pair of the Nanoskin hand sponges. Go ahead and get the medium and fine ones. Then if you really want to take it to the next level, get the fine Nanoskin pad for the buffer. I LOVE MINE! I put if off for what seems forever, and once I bought the first one I never looked back. Clay still has it's place, but dollar for dollar you'll never do as well with clay as you can with Nanoskin.

ONR, you need ONR. Plain old blue is fine for rinseless and mixed at QD strength, as well as what you'll want to use for clay and Nanoskin lube. Really doesn't have to be ONRWW, but get what ever one you like. (I have both btw.) Spray bottles, lots and LOTS of spray bottles. The Megs generic bottles here on AG are the best deal out there for a quality spray bottle and sprayer. Catch a 15% or 20% off sale and order a dozen of them.

Starter towels, Costco Kirkland golds can do a lot and not break the bank. If you come to visit I should be able to help you with any other towels you may need. I've got several hundred coming in the order I did earlier this week.

One thing I am concerned about though is if you are thinking along the lines of paint correction, and this is your first time, then you need to be working on YOUR car. Friends are friends, and they don't mind you doing free work and all, but that all goes out the window when you go back to them telling them there was a *problem*. Then suddenly they'll want you to repaint the entire car, it never had anything wrong with it, you twisted their arm to the point where they felt you were going to be upset if they DIDN'T let you work on it, then after you did, you destroyed the paint on their PERFECT car.... blah blah blah. :rolleyes:

That being said. That Mustang can be made to look a TON better than it looks now. But I'd want it in writing from your friend (if it was my friend) that the paint is in marginal condition (at best) and while you are going to try and make it better, that if he/she is expecting "paint correction" that you cannot guarantee successful outcome of all areas.

The roof looks like it's pretty thin. And I'm betting the trunk doesn't look much better. The tops of the front fenders probably are a bit rough as well.

Meguiar's #7 would be a great way to put some life back in that old oxidized paint. Even though it works great with single stage, it'll still help clear coat, it is after all.... paint. You said you have 105, that's not the easiest stuff to work with, especially on old neglected paint. The #7 can help a bit with that. Take and rub it in by hand, or perhaps with a blue pad by machine and let it sit a bit then remove it. Then start with a few test spots. You would be surprised how well 205 can correct, yet still finish fantastic! IF you start compounding I'd then move to something like #83 or maybe Megs Ultimate Compound.

I'm thinking that the Mustang would really like a good once over with D151 and call it a day. Of course that's after it's been clayed/Nanoskinned really good all over. Also, get a good selection of scrub brushes, from small stiff ones to larger soft ones. The new Mothers back to black trim restorer/cleaner comes with a toothbrush shaped brush that's good to scrub all those little faded plastic/vinyl areas but Mothers makes another even larger toothbrush shaped brush that's a must have. AG sells them in a pair, you should get those for sure. Also look at the other Mothers brushes they have, all great tools to have.

Anyhow.... just throwing a few ideas out there.

I've gotta' hit the sack, about to drop on the keyboard. :eek:

Catch ya' later.

[Vegas Transplant]

Got your PM Mitch.

Didn't see the photos earlier, (was on the phone). Boy I don't know about a "paint correction" on that old paint. It can be cleaned up no doubt, but "correction" may not be exactly what it needs, restoration might better describe it. ;)

Those older Fords are known for quite a bit of clear coat failure and delamination, especially when they've not been taken care of. That one doesn't look like it's seen even a coat of wax in YEARS. :eek:

You have a GG6 on order, yes? I'd say start with 12 pads minimum. You are going to need 3~4 of each of your most used pads just to start, then you can pick up more as you get to working different types of paint. Generally speaking I'd say 3 orange, 4 white, 3 pink (ccs pad), 2 blue. That'd be a decent start. If you don't want to get the CCS, then you could do 4 orange, 4 white, 2 blue and 2 black.

Other supplies you'll want right off the bat would be a pair of the Nanoskin hand sponges. Go ahead and get the medium and fine ones. Then if you really want to take it to the next level, get the fine Nanoskin pad for the buffer. I LOVE MINE! I put if off for what seems forever, and once I bought the first one I never looked back. Clay still has it's place, but dollar for dollar you'll never do as well with clay as you can with Nanoskin.

ONR, you need ONR. Plain old blue is fine for rinseless and mixed at QD strength, as well as what you'll want to use for clay and Nanoskin lube. Really doesn't have to be ONRWW, but get what ever one you like. (I have both btw.) Spray bottles, lots and LOTS of spray bottles. The Megs generic bottles here on AG are the best deal out there for a quality spray bottle and sprayer. Catch a 15% or 20% off sale and order a dozen of them.

Starter towels, Costco Kirkland golds can do a lot and not break the bank. If you come to visit I should be able to help you with any other towels you may need. I've got several hundred coming in the order I did earlier this week.

One thing I am concerned about though is if you are thinking along the lines of paint correction, and this is your first time, then you need to be working on YOUR car. Friends are friends, and they don't mind you doing free work and all, but that all goes out the window when you go back to them telling them there was a *problem*. Then suddenly they'll want you to repaint the entire car, it never had anything wrong with it, you twisted their arm to the point where they felt you were going to be upset if they DIDN'T let you work on it, then after you did, you destroyed the paint on their PERFECT car.... blah blah blah. :rolleyes:

That being said. That Mustang can be made to look a TON better than it looks now. But I'd want it in writing from your friend (if it was my friend) that the paint is in marginal condition (at best) and while you are going to try and make it better, that if he/she is expecting "paint correction" that you cannot guarantee successful outcome of all areas.

The roof looks like it's pretty thin. And I'm betting the trunk doesn't look much better. The tops of the front fenders probably are a bit rough as well.

Meguiar's #7 would be a great way to put some life back in that old oxidized paint. Even though it works great with single stage, it'll still help clear coat, it is after all.... paint. You said you have 105, that's not the easiest stuff to work with, especially on old neglected paint. The #7 can help a bit with that. Take and rub it in by hand, or perhaps with a blue pad by machine and let it sit a bit then remove it. Then start with a few test spots. You would be surprised how well 205 can correct, yet still finish fantastic! IF you start compounding I'd then move to something like #83 or maybe Megs Ultimate Compound.

I'm thinking that the Mustang would really like a good once over with D151 and call it a day. Of course that's after it's been clayed/Nanoskinned really good all over. Also, get a good selection of scrub brushes, from small stiff ones to larger soft ones. The new Mothers back to black trim restorer/cleaner comes with a toothbrush shaped brush that's good to scrub all those little faded plastic/vinyl areas but Mothers makes another even larger toothbrush shaped brush that's a must have. AG sells them in a pair, you should get those for sure. Also look at the other Mothers brushes they have, all great tools to have.

Anyhow.... just throwing a few ideas out there.

I've gotta' hit the sack, about to drop on the keyboard. :eek:

Catch ya' later.

+1...then top with a Collinite product.

Remember, you can't put the genie back into the bottle if you go too far.

[MitchLiving]

Cardaddy, I was not expecting to come home tonight to find this gem waiting here for me to read. The information that you gave me is what I was looking for. You are right about the "friend" thing and I've heard stories over and over again about how that went out the window real fast if something were to happen, So as you mentioned I guess the place to start is my car.
I already took pictures of my car and I would post them but I am sure I will make the trip over to you this weekend and it will be great to hear all your advice about what to do with my car… Unless we get froggy and start sanding and polishing that day which you won't find me arguing about lol.

Thanks a lot for the information that you have provided and i'm really looking forward to driving out there to get my hands on paint and stuff some knowledge in my head.

[cardaddy]

Cardaddy, I was not expecting to come home tonight to find this gem waiting here for me to read. The information that you gave me is what I was looking for. You are right about the "friend" thing and I've heard stories over and over again about how that went out the window real fast if something were to happen, So as you mentioned I guess the place to start is my car.
I already took pictures of my car and I would post them but I am sure I will make the trip over to you this weekend and it will be great to hear all your advice about what to do with my car… Unless we get froggy and start sanding and polishing that day which you won't find me arguing about lol.

Thanks a lot for the information that you have provided and i'm really looking forward to driving out there to get my hands on paint and stuff some knowledge in my head.

You are certainly welcome. Maybe you can carpool from Athens out this way. Or better yet, have a CONVOY (got ur ears on 10-4). :D We could have a detailing par-TAY. ;)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

[Sicoupe]

^ man TONY, I sure wish I lived nearby, I would definitely love to learn and get some good training from you:)

[cardaddy]

^ man TONY, I sure wish I lived nearby, I would definitely love to learn and get some good training from you:)

Yeah.... I'm thinking you'd be getting up fairly early to make it out this way for lunch, with driving from Oklahoma and all. :)