Repaint Polish and Protect Process

[spewking]

I need your suggestions for the process I should use following a Repaint.

I have a 2007 Infiniti G35 sedan, medium blue that I had the front bumper and hood repainted due to normal wear and tear from rocks and bugs. The front side fenders were painted for blending also.

First, I am going to wait about 60 days for curing before I do anything.

At that time, do you recommend the normal process of wash, clay, polish, LSP? I will likely use menzerna 4500 with a gold jeweling pad (or a black or blue if I need a slight bit more firmness) followed with 4star upp. Is this process what you would recommend?

I can use a less abrasive clay such as pinnacle...is a softer clay recommended?

Is a paint cleaner recommended? In lieu of clay or polishing or would you add to the process above?

Any other pointers and suggestions welcome. It looks great and I do not want to mess up the new paint. I do want to protect it as soon as possible.

Thanks,

David

[BobbyG]

Hi David,

30 days after the fresh paint is applied should be sufficient. Bumpers are painted using a slightly different process than your hood as flex agents are added to the paint. Clear coat is also applied over the color coat. Treat them no different than you would the rest of the finish.

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax

Menzerna SF 4500 is an incredibly fine polish with almost no cut whatsoever. I would probably go with Menzerna SF 4000 then apply a couple of coats of clear sealant. I recommend a clear sealant because of their looks and ease of use.

To prolong their appearance you might want to look in to a clear bra. These are worth the expense and keep those problem areas looking great for years to come.

[Mike Phillips]

First thing I would do is wash the car gently and then move it into full overhead sun and look for signs of holograms from where the guys at the body shop would have buffed your brand new paint job.

Body shops, like new car dealerships like some detail shops have a bad reputation of not having a clue as to how to properly buff out a car and the majority of horror stories you'll read on any detailing discussion forum is when someone like you joins the forum with a new paint job only to find out it looks like this...


DISO = The Dealership Installed Swirl Option (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/28401-diso-dealership-installed-swirl-option.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/742/Horrendous005.jpg


If you're LUCKY... all they did was paint it, zero buffing.

So check for that first.






Is a paint cleaner recommended?





Here's something I point out all the time on this forum. The most COMMON place to get paint overspray on your car, and this means glass, wheels, tires and of course the body panels, is at a body shop because they are spraying paint there. Not just when your car is in the paint booth but after your car comes out of the paint booth and they are painting the next car. Your car is still there isn't it? So it's in an environment where their is paint is the air.

So take your clean hand and feel things like the body panels and the glass. My guess is you'll find a textured feeling and this means paint overspray.

So here's the deal.... if you find paint overspray on your brand new paint job then to get it off you're going to need to clay it or use some other mechanical means to get it off.

No matter how you remove the overspray, in my book I recommend to plan on doing at least ONE machine polishing process to remove any marring inflicted by the mechanical decontamination step.

If you're going to do one machine polishing step you don't need a paint cleaner...







Is a paint cleaner recommended?




At a minimum you need a fine cut polish, a foam pad and a dual action polisher. In a worse case scenario you'll need more aggressive products and pads to remove holograms if any.


Hope that helps....


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's two really cool cars that hand JUST a panel or two re-painted at a body shop.

They BOTH had paitn overspray all over the rest of the car. If the painter doesn't mask off or cover the parts of the car NOT getting repainted, then sprays or blows paint onto a fender or two, it's only natural that the overspray will land on the rest of the car.

These aren't no daily drivers and if they get treated with disprespct at a body shop how much more so the average daily driver?


Note the part I made red text from the actual write-up.




1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Race Car - Pictures & Video (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/66166-1963-plymouth-fury-drag-race-car-pictures-video.html)

Removing Overspray Paint using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads

This 1963 Plymouth Fury was recently repainted. As a by-product of the painting process, there was overspray all over the car. It was very easy to feel the overspray paint on the hood and the windshield but chances are very good the entire car has some level of overspray paint, including all the glass, all the paint, all the chrome and stainless steel trim and even the wheels and tires.


Interesting Factoid...
The most common place to get overspray paint on your car is while it's at a body shop for repairs or a complete paint job.

Tip...
Anytime you have your car re-painted, or even just a portion of the car repainted, while at the body shop, inspect the car for overspray and if discovered, point this out to the shop managers.




Here's Tim using a Meguiar's G110v2 with a Medium Grade, (Yellow), Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_0171.jpg




Of course we fixed her all up to be pretty again....


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_008.jpg




:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's the other car.... an old 2-door Ford...

Note the red text portion...


1965 Mustang GT Convertible - Detailer's Paint Coating (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/68480-1965-mustang-gt-convertible-detailer-s-paint-coating.html)



Mechanically Decontaminate Paint

The car had just had the rear fender repainted and now the rest of the car had overspray over all the other body panels and really bad in some areas.

To remove the overspray paint we're using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads, "Medium Grade" on Porter Cable, Griot's and Meguiar's dual action polishers with the Nanoskin Glide for a lube.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_021.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_022.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_023.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_024.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_025.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_026.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_027.jpg



This one came out all purdy too....


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_014.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1971/1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_015.jpg


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Point being for anyone reading this into the future....


If you get your car repainted, or just a fender or door re-painted, chances are very good you will not only have to clay the car to remove overspray but chances are good you'll have holograms to remove too...


:)

[spewking]

Hi David,

30 days after the fresh paint is applied should be sufficient. Bumpers are painted using a slightly different process than your hood as flex agents are added to the paint. Clear coat is also applied over the color coat. Treat them no different than you would the rest of the finish.

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax

Menzerna SF 4500 is an incredibly fine polish with almost no cut whatsoever. I would probably go with Menzerna SF 4000 then apply a couple of coats of clear sealant. I recommend a clear sealant because of their looks and ease of use.

To prolong their appearance you might want to look in to a clear bra. These are worth the expense and keep those problem areas looking great for years to come.

BobbieG:

Thanks for the response.

Why do you recommend 4000 over 4500? If I understand correctly, the 4000 may have a little very fine grit and 4500 none, so if true, I am guessing you think I might need just a little action. What color pad? Blue or gray/black? Sorry...I just don't want to be too aggressive/ want to match the polishing approach with the fresh paint and not overdo it.

Also, can you suggest your preferred clear bra? I know nothing about clear bras and brands of such. Maybe there are some threads you can point me too as well.

Thanks agin for the comments and assistance.

[spewking]

Hi David,

30 days after the fresh paint is applied should be sufficient. Bumpers are painted using a slightly different process than your hood as flex agents are added to the paint. Clear coat is also applied over the color coat. Treat them no different than you would the rest of the finish.

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax

Menzerna SF 4500 is an incredibly fine polish with almost no cut whatsoever. I would probably go with Menzerna SF 4000 then apply a couple of coats of clear sealant. I recommend a clear sealant because of their looks and ease of use.

To prolong their appearance you might want to look in to a clear bra. These are worth the expense and keep those problem areas looking great for years to come.


First thing I would do is wash the car gently and then move it into full overhead sun and look for signs of holograms from where the guys at the body shop would have buffed your brand new paint job.

Body shops, like new car dealerships like some detail shops have a bad reputation of not having a clue as to how to properly buff out a car and the majority of horror stories you'll read on any detailing discussion forum is when someone like you joins the forum with a new paint job only to find out it looks like this...


DISO = The Dealership Installed Swirl Option (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/28401-diso-dealership-installed-swirl-option.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/742/Horrendous005.jpg


If you're LUCKY... all they did was paint it, zero buffing.

So check for that first.





Here's something I point out all the time on this forum. The most COMMON place to get paint overspray on your car, and this means glass, wheels, tires and of course the body panels, is at a body shop because they are spraying paint there. Not just when your car is in the paint booth but after your car comes out of the paint booth and they are painting the next car. Your car is still there isn't it? So it's in an environment where their is paint is the air.

So take your clean hand and feel things like the body panels and the glass. My guess is you'll find a textured feeling and this means paint overspray.

So here's the deal.... if you find paint overspray on your brand new paint job then to get it off you're going to need to clay it or use some other mechanical means to get it off.

No matter how you remove the overspray, in my book I recommend to plan on doing at least ONE machine polishing process to remove any marring inflicted by the mechanical decontamination step.

If you're going to do one machine polishing step you don't need a paint cleaner...







At a minimum you need a fine cut polish, a foam pad and a dual action polisher. In a worse case scenario you'll need more aggressive products and pads to remove holograms if any.


Hope that helps....


:)

Mike, thanks. A first look doesn't show any overspray nor holograms so I think I'm in good shape.

I do plan a polish routine after curing. Do you agree with the normal process as bobbyg suggested, e.g., wash clay polish? And my plan for menzerna 4000/4500 and a softer pad? Again, my main goal it to polish it without being too aggressive...I don't work with fresh paint usually so I do not want to introduce any marring, etc.

Thanks for any suggestions in this area.