Newb that needs to polish...

[Photecs]

Well, Now that I've been reading up on detailing for the past two weeks, schooling myself on waxing, proper washing etc... I quickly saw today after a quick car wash that I'll have polishing in my future.

In good old Canada, there's no way getting around a snow brush in the winter months. So... Now we've got plenty of "spider web" scratches on the black metallic paint, I have two questions:

1) is there any way to protect my paint against snow brush, or ice scratching my paint each and every winter? Can a good sealant and wax combo protect it for 5 straight months?

2) what polish and pad combo is best for this? After a solid wash, I'll clay it.... Then...

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm already planning on a PC 7424xp. I've been doing plenty of reading on chemical guys, and have seen Meguiars 105/205 on a few videos... but just having to do plenty of reading on everything else.

Thanks!

[swanicyouth]

I use a snow broom type tool (by Hoppy) with a foam head. I don't get any scratches. But, I don't let it touch the paint, either. I just glide it over the snow and sort of take it off in layers.

No coating, sealant, or wax will protect paint from scratches from something dragging on unclean paint.

If it was me , I would skip the PC and get a Griots 6". It's more powerful and comes with a better warranty (lifetime) and a useable 6" BP. But that's just me.

As for polishes, I'd stay away from M-Whatever and CG's polishes. But again, that is just me. I think polishes by WG and Optimum are more user friendly.

You won't know what specific combo works for sure until you try to polish it and see.

[custmsprty]

We're shoveling sunshine down here in Tampa today, 75 and beautiful :dblthumb2:

[BobbyG]

We're shoveling sunshine down here in Tampa today, 75 and beautiful :dblthumb2:

Oh, now that's just cruel! http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll224/SmokeJumperFirearms/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif :laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html)

[Photecs]

I really need to get a handle on what all the different pads do. The two big foam pad players seem to be hex logic and LC. Any preferences between the two... and why?

[Evan.J]

I really need to get a handle on what all the different pads do. The two big foam pad players seem to be hex logic and LC. Any preferences between the two... and why?

If your going to be working with a DA the I will highly recommned and 5.5" pads of anything larger. The smaller pads make buffing more effective and make cutting and polishing more effective than a larger pad.

The hex logic are made by the Buff n' Shine company and LC is made by well LC. I will say that both make great pads so you cant go wrong with either. I am not sure if you ca get the hex logic pads in the 5.5" size or not. Most here erither get the LC flat pads or the CCS. I addtionally like the hydrotech line from LC as well.

[Photecs]

If your going to be working with a DA the I will highly recommned and 5.5" pads of anything larger. The smaller pads make buffing more effective and make cutting and polishing more effective than a larger pad.

The hex logic are made by the Buff n' Shine company and LC is made by well LC. I will say that both make great pads so you cant go wrong with either. I am not sure if you ca get the hex logic pads in the 5.5" size or not. Most here erither get the LC flat pads or the CCS. I addtionally like the hydrotech line from LC as well.

Yes, hex do come in a 5.5" size... and that is what i'm planning on getting for sure.
Its just confusing - as I know a lot of this process is "try a test spot, see for best results.." but I really don't want to spend $500 on pads, when $200 really is all I need to get what I need for my specific job. I've heard of people say "get the white and Menzerna 400", others say "no way, gotta get 400 and orange for a good cut, then come back with white and 4000".

I'm planning on doing a two step... and think that for the spider webbing I have going on, the 2500 and orange, then a 4000 follow up with black/white is the way i'll go.

[Desertnate]

If you're looking for products to learn on, I'd recommend Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. As a combo they should cover most situations pretty well. They are easy to use and are pretty dummy-proof.

You don't mention what type of car you're working on, but I've used this combo on both a Subaru and Toyota with great success. On the Toyota, I was able to correct some pretty nasty dealer installed swirls with just the Polish and a polishing pad.

[Photecs]

I'm working on a Black 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T. That's the hood in the above photo....
After posting this thread, I've come across the Pinnacle XMT line - and swirl remover #3 and the 360 bottles. Wondering how this would be using a PC versus the menzerna line... a little less aggressive? Would it work on the spider webs I have in my paint?

[Hoytman]

Oh, now that's just cruel! http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll224/SmokeJumperFirearms/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif :laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html):laughing: (http://media.photobucket.com/user/SmokeJumperFirearms/media/SMILEYS/MOONING.gif.html)
And that was just tooooo funny!:laughing::righton:

[Methodical]

Well, Now that I've been reading up on detailing for the past two weeks, schooling myself on waxing, proper washing etc... I quickly saw today after a quick car wash that I'll have polishing in my future.

In good old Canada, there's no way getting around a snow brush in the winter months. So... Now we've got plenty of "spider web" scratches on the black metallic paint, I have two questions:

1) is there any way to protect my paint against snow brush, or ice scratching my paint each and every winter? Can a good sealant and wax combo protect it for 5 straight months?

2) what polish and pad combo is best for this? After a solid wash, I'll clay it.... Then...

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm already planning on a PC 7424xp. I've been doing plenty of reading on chemical guys, and have seen Meguiars 105/205 on a few videos... but just having to do plenty of reading on everything else.

Thanks!

Check out Machine Polisher Kits (http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-59-machine-polishers-and-kits.aspx). They have polishing kits that include the things a beginner needs from washing, claying, removing swirles and polishing paint (i.e. pad and compound maching system to take the guess work out of things). They also have many videos on each step of the process. You can skip the polishing machine since you are getting the PC.

Also, check out the Junkman2000 youtube videos on how to detail your car. He provides step by step guidance (real time) and provides some very useful tips on various compounds, polishes etc. and where and when to skip the overhyped products.

Just One Man's Opinion

[Desertnate]

1) is there any way to protect my paint against snow brush, or ice scratching my paint each and every winter? Can a good sealant and wax combo protect it for 5 straight months?



Not sure how I missed this the first time I replied...

Yes, a good sealant will last five months or longer.

For years I've been using Klasse SG. One coat will easily get me six months through winter. I'm testing Collinite 845 right now, and so far four months after I applied one coat, it's still beading water like it did the day I applied it. I don't see it not going the distanct until Spring. Double coating either of those products should safely get you six months of protection

[Photecs]

Check out Machine Polisher Kits (http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-59-machine-polishers-and-kits.aspx). They have polishing kits that include the things a beginner needs from washing, claying, removing swirles and polishing paint (i.e. pad and compound maching system to take the guess work out of things). They also have many videos on each step of the process. You can skip the polishing machine since you are getting the PC.

Also, check out the Junkman2000 youtube videos on how to detail your car. He provides step by step guidance (real time) and provides some very useful tips on various compounds, polishes etc. and where and when to skip the overhyped products.

Just One Man's Opinion

Thank you, and yes, i've spent 5+ hours watching the Junkman... "we don't fake the funk". I like his style... and he's been very helping with the learning process.
Just as every situation is different, I've just been looking for some suggestions for myself...


Not sure how I missed this the first time I replied...

Yes, a good sealant will last five months or longer.

For years I've been using Klasse SG. One coat will easily get me six months through winter. I'm testing Collinite 845 right now, and so far four months after I applied one coat, it's still beading water like it did the day I applied it. I don't see it not going the distanct until Spring. Double coating either of those products should safely get you six months of protection

Great to hear, and thanks for looking at this post again to chime in. I'll keep that in mind for this coming October, and do a quality sealant - along with a coat of the collinite double coat wax (supposed to last 5-6 months too).
That should do for getting me through, or almost through the winter until I can pamper it again.

[Desertnate]

Great to hear, and thanks for looking at this post again to chime in. I'll keep that in mind for this coming October, and do a quality sealant - along with a coat of the collinite double coat wax (supposed to last 5-6 months too).
That should do for getting me through, or almost through the winter until I can pamper it again.

If you go with the Collinite 845, you shouldn't need any sealant under it if you don't want to spend the extra time applying a sealant. 845 is a hybrid product despite being called a wax, yet it's as durible, if not moreso, than some sealants.

[Photecs]

If you go with the Collinite 845, you shouldn't need any sealant under it if you don't want to spend the extra time applying a sealant. 845 is a hybrid product despite being called a wax, yet it's as durible, if not moreso, than some sealants.

Thanks for the heads up on collinite 845. Since you posted this, I've been doing plenty of reading on it... It's got nothing but good things said about it. Looks like this will be my go to product... And we'll top it off with a nice LSP.