Opti-coat....hmmmm

[casvg5]

oooooook. You've all got my attention.

Im a pure carnauba fan boy. I love the way it goes on, smells, looks, everything. But I have customers asking about opti-coat.

My problem is I do not like the idea of something permanent. Is it REALLY that permanent? I'm sure you can polish it off.....

I've resisted getting into it for a long time....but what are peoples real opinions on it. Hopefully the guys that just love to be the first to talk about something new have already left the crowd.

Honest opinions and feedback please!

Again, im not a noob to detailing in any way. Im in my 3rd year as a professional, own and operate a 3000sqft detailing shop, with very happy customers.

[hernandez.art13]

I actually asked if Opti Coat is "permanent" and just got random looks by other detailers...

I also asked if I were to opti coat a car and from there leave it inside a garage for 100 years (exaggerated for dramatic effect btw) if the coating will still be in place and I was told that yes it would be.

but even claying is some form of abrasiveness so go figure

[Mike Phillips]

Dr. David Ghodoussi, most call him Dr. G, helped me to word the definition of the word permanent as it relates to coatings, or at least his coating.


3-Categories: Waxes, Paint Sealants and Coatings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/34185-3-categories-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings.html)


In an effort to help standardize terms used in the detailing industry, now that CQuartz and Opti-Coat 2.0 are mainstream, there are three general categories in the "Protection" category


Waxes
Paint Sealants
Coatings


Waxes
Generally defined as any product that contains a natural or synthetic waxy ingredients that are intended to protect the paint and/or add beauty to the paint. These types traditional waxes will wear off under normal wear-n-tear, repeated washings and exposure to the environment.


Paint Sealants
Generally defined as any protection product that contains man-made or synthetic ingredients that are intended to protect the paint and/or add beauty to the paint. These traditional sealants will wear off under normal wear-n-tear, repeated washings and exposure to the environment.


Coatings
Generally defined as any paint protection product that contains man-made or synthetic protection ingredients that are intended to permanently bond to the paint to both provide a barrier-coating of protection as well as create a clear, high gloss finish. The products available in this category are considered permanent coatings because like your car's paint, they cannot be removed unless you purposefully remove them or you purposefully neglect them.



Definition of permanent in the context of sealing paint
This is kind of tricky just because the nature of discussion forums is for some personality types to read super literal into each and every single word, in this case the word permanent.



per·ma·nent (pûrm-nnt)
adj.
1. Lasting or remaining without essential change: "the universal human yearning for something permanent, enduring, without shadow of change" (Willa Cather).

2. Not expected to change in status, condition, or place: a permanent address; permanent secretary to the president.
n.



Here's Dr. G's input when I wrote this article...

In the context that we refer to coating as permanent it means that once the coating is properly applied and allowed to cure and set-up, it will not come off under normal circumstances or via normal wear-n-tear such as careful washing. So in this context, a coating is permanent in the same manner your car's paint is permanent.

The paint on your car is not going to come off unless you abrade it, chemically dissolve it or in some other mechanical means, purposefully remove it. In this same way, legitimate paint coatings are not going to come off unless you abrade it, chemically dissolve it or on some other mechanical means, purposefully remove it.

Traditional car waxes and paint sealants will wear off under normal use circumstances or via normal wear-n-tear such as careful washing. So in the context of and in comparison with traditional car waxes and paint sealants, paint coatings are permanent.



There's nothing to fear. If the coating needs to be removed you can polish it off.


:)

[RaskyR1]

oooooook. You've all got my attention.

Im a pure carnauba fan boy. I love the way it goes on, smells, looks, everything. But I have customers asking about opti-coat.

My problem is I do not like the idea of something permanent. Is it REALLY that permanent? I'm sure you can polish it off.....

I've resisted getting into it for a long time....but what are peoples real opinions on it. Hopefully the guys that just love to be the first to talk about something new have already left the crowd.

Honest opinions and feedback please!

Again, im not a noob to detailing in any way. Im in my 3rd year as a professional, own and operate a 3000sqft detailing shop, with very happy customers.

Well Opti-Coat Pro has actually been available since 2008 and 2011 for the consumer 2.0 version, so it's not really new. ;)

I don't like to use the word " permanent" when offering Opti-Coat to potential clients, but there are several well documented reviews showing 2+ years and even some users going over 4 years now with Opti-Coat on there vehicles. As with any LSP or coating, proper maintenance is key. It can be polished off, but I have yet to come across a paint safe cleaner that will remove it. However, I try to explain to my clients that they should expect to come back in 2-3 years to have their car re-polished and re-coated as they will likely accumulate swirls and scratches during that time unless they are very careful with washing/drying. If they don't care about swirls, an annual or bi-annual decon is all that should be needed.

Rasky

[GenesisCoupe]

Yes it can be polished off, from my understanding.

[casvg5]

ok, this clears a lot of the confusion up. Especially mikes words.

Thank you all!

I just love the look and feel and process of a quality white carnauba. Is the coating much more difficult to apply? I used Chemical Guys SS6 coating and it was....REALLLLLYYYY easy to use.

[casvg5]

What worries me is the getting things trapped under it. Do people have much trouble with that? I have a dust free, stagnant air shop, but something is BOUND to settle on the car during curing.

[FUNX650]

What worries me is the getting things trapped under it. Do people have much trouble with that? I have a dust free, stagnant air shop, but something is BOUND to settle on the car during curing.
Especially if it's allowed to totally cure (~30 days).

Bob

[BlackRam]

Especially if it's allowed to totally cure (~30 days).

Bob

On that note, if you apply a coating on a DD on say saturday, but have to go to work on monday, will it mess up the coating? Whether it be OC or another big name? Like dirt, road grime, etc get into the coating, or will it be "cured enough"?

[MattPersman]

No IMO you can apply it and drive to the store like 30 mins later maybe even 10 it flashes off, and dust and whatnot will not embed in it. I don't think would put it on right before work when it was raining but under normal clear weather no biggie. It's not tacky or sticky if you have ever used a wowa sealant you know those just flash off, not like someone is driving around with a big patch of dust or dirt on a portion of there car that is permanent.

[FUNX650]

No IMO you can apply it and drive to the store like 30 mins later maybe even 10 it flashes off, and dust and whatnot will not embed in it. I don't think would put it on right before work when it was raining but under normal clear weather no biggie. It's not tacky or sticky if you have ever used a wowa sealant you know those just flash off, not like someone is driving around with a big patch of dust or dirt on a portion of there car that is permanent.
Every time there's a report on this forum of a 'Coating' having:
lack of durability, a "fail", no beading/gloss/shine, etc...

Either the manufacturer of the 'Coating', or their spokespersons, inevitably states the total curing time is, and should be, around 30 days---sometimes even more.
And...Without adherence to this guideline, then:
The advertised, and stated characteristics of the 'Coating' will often be so compromised.

Folks can do what they want to in regards to a 'Coating' and it's curing...
But then should the complaints, from not following the total-curing time guidelines---when known well in advance---have any merit?

My answer is, indefatigably: No!
You and your vehicle(s) are not, at this point in time, ready for 'Coatings'. 'Coatings' represent, IMHO: Commitment.

I do, however, realize that others may not be so inclined to agree.

Bob

[Old Tiger]

Well Opti-Coat Pro has actually been available since 2008 and 2011 for the consumer 2.0 version, so it's not really new. ;)

I don't like to use the word " permanent" when offering Opti-Coat to potential clients, but there are several well documented reviews showing 2+ years and even some users going over 4 years now with Opti-Coat on there vehicles. As with any LSP or coating, proper maintenance is key. It can be polished off, but I have yet to come across a paint safe cleaner that will remove it. However, I try to explain to my clients that they should expect to come back in 2-3 years to have their car re-polished and re-coated as they will likely accumulate swirls and scratches during that time unless they are very careful with washing/drying. If they don't care about swirls, an annual or bi-annual decon is all that should be needed.

Rasky
Not much to add to Chad's comments. A coating is much easier to keep clean than any wax or sealant.

[boosteddub69]

Every time there's a report on this forum of a 'Coating' having:
lack of durability, a "fail", no beading/gloss/shine, etc...

Either the manufacturer of the 'Coating', or their spokespersons, inevitably states the total curing time is, and should be, around 30 days---sometimes even more.
And...Without adherence to this guideline, then:
The advertised, and stated characteristics of the 'Coating' will often be so compromised.

Folks can do what they want to in regards to a 'Coating' and it's curing...
But then should the complaints, from not following the total-curing time guidelines---when known well in advance---have any merit?

My answer is, indefatigably: No!
You and your vehicle(s) are not, at this point in time, ready for 'Coatings'. 'Coatings' represent, IMHO: Commitment.

I do, however, realize that others may not be so inclined to agree.

Bob

There is a lot of truth in what Bob said. Though this is my first post on the forum I've been a lurker for years and have been detailing as a hobby for the last 5 years.

I tried opticoat last year and followed the instructions to a 'T', the car was beautiful. She was finished on a Saturday afternoon, and left parked until I had to go to work Monday morning.

Well I live in warm, dry, dusty San Antonio and work less than a mile from a cement plant which spews dust into the air. Most days a slight coating of dust is left on my car, but this particular day (just a few days after opticoat) we had a brief warm drizzle, just enough to make a mildly acidic slurry on the car. All of the horizontal surfaces were lightly stained :eek:.

I had to lightly polish these panels to get the spots out. Way too soon for opticoat to have to deal with that since it wasn't anywhere near fully cured.

Consider your environment when choosing opticoat

[MattPersman]

I don't think they would sell us something that needed to be in a vacuum chamber for 30 days after application, I think people are being too cautious and worry some. Not trying to argue or anything like that I just don't get all the caution and worry about driving your car after putting OC on, I wouldn't spray it down with acetone but normal driving would be ok.

[tdekany]

So much miss info in the thread, let me see if I can help.

Opti Coat is an actual Nano Ceramic Clear coat, just like what you find on your car. Difference is? OC is harder and more scratch resistant, Just like OEM clear, OC needs 30 days to fully cure. ( I am sure that in the Arizona heat in august OC cures faster than in Oregon in January) but 30 days it is.

What do you need to know about the first 30 days? 60 minutes after application, you can drive in rain. Both versions. You can also use a quick detailer an hour later to clean the finish, if needed. You can wash it 48 hours later (pro) and 7 days later with 2.0

72 hours later, you can have solvents used on it, if you want a clear bra put on the car, but maybe waiting 4 days is better. According to Dr G, you want to wait at least 3 days.

Assuming that the prep work was done properly, after 30 days, no chemical will take off OC. It has to be polished off. Again, OC is a clear coat, not just a "sealant" coating. OC is permanent, meaning, that as long as the car is around OC is on. However, prep is crucial, just like with any LSP. If you are not sure what you are doing, get a pro to do it for you, don't blame the product. OC needs "normal" temperatures". The only time OC acts up is in hot and very high humidity. Especially on the hood/trunk, you may see condensation. You can't wipe it off, but if you let it sit overnight, it is gone by the am. Or an hour later, you can use a QD to wipe it away. Again, this is on very hot and very humid days only.

A clean garage is all you need, I have never seen anything stuck underneath OC - ever. Maybe I have been lucky. OC is grabby and if you happen to use a micro fiber towel that lints, don't worry, it will wash off the first time you wash your car. Or just go over the paint with a better MF towel.

Hope any of this info helped someone.