Prep/Clay Towel recommendations

[cheekyage]

Hi all,

I am at trying the prep/clay towel option.

Is it worth looking at as an alternative to the traditional clay bar?


Is it easy to use?
Can I use normal clay lube/quick detailer?
Recommended brand/product?

[HateSwirls]

I've never tried the prep towel but many here have and I don't think I ever heard one bad review.
Yes you use the same amount of lube as with a clay bar.
One day I'll break down and buy one, it's seems to be the best way in removimg contaminets. :dblthumb2:

Not only does it work well but you can do it in half the time compared to a clay bar.
That excites me. :dblthumb2:

[jamesboyy]

The nanoskin auto scrub handy towel is a good choice, and yes you can use tradition clay lubricant with this product

[Scott@IncrediblyDetailed]

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. I can't tell a difference between the nano skin and speedy prep towel (I have both).

[Audios S6]

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. I can't tell a difference between the nano skin and speedy prep towel (I have both).


I agree. I will add that some people, including me, have experienced the speedy prep towel sticking to itself during storage. It has not been detrimental to the towel in my case.

[Bill1234]

people here like them alot, I saw larry kosilla over at ammo nyc used car soap as a lubricant for clay

[Tato]

Yes, easy to use. However, it has it's particularities, that are important to follow.

To start, the clay alternatives when brand new comes with a thin protective film, so they have to be used at first on glass, to break in. It's not rocket science, just guarantee that while first using them, do all glass around vehicle and then you're done to start claying paint.

Do not exert too much pressure, or you'll mar the paint a lot. Clay alternatives will not scratch paint, but something between clay and paint WILL scratch if you rub it hard over paint.

Rinse it on bucket frequently, preferable with a grit guard to keep any particulate bellow the guard.

To get rid of clay marring, you'll need at least one step polishing / light polishing before LSP. Using fine clays (normal clay) leaves less marring than those nanoskins. Nanoskin mar something like 'aggressive grade clay', but fine grade nanoskin leaves less mar then medium grade.

Work up/down, then side to side. That way I've found effective and fast to remove above surface contaminants.

I've also found that 'normal clay' works better if I'm dealing with paint overspray, while nanoskin works the same (but very much faster) on general contaminants (when paint feels harsh even after wash).

In no time you'll get reflectivity and slickness back on paint using nanoskin. Get the most from the results doing a good polishing afterwards, use a good LSP and you'll have your show car finish guaranteed.

I've used many things as clay lube for nanoskins, since water, QD and car soap. My favorite is CG Wash and Wax thanks to it's lubricity and cleaning power, while leaving the surface very slick.

Try to find what works best in your case.

It's important to 'GLIDE' the clay over lubed surface, not 'scrub' it.

I have and use nanoskin and car pro, but I believe any brand sold on AG will get you there.

I use clay mitts the most, but I do own a clay sponge and a clay pad 6" medium grade.


On these threads I'm showing the usage of nanoskin mitts and some pictures of before/after just claying. I also discuss the use of car soap as lube in some topic reply.

I believe claying is one of those factors that alone has huge impact in relation to other steps.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/76125-2013-black-mitsubishi-outlander-full-black-label-coating-treatment-signature-flex3401.html

and also here

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/75602-2013-chevrolet-cruze-meets-uber-compound.html

Hope I've helped,

Kind Regards.

[cheekyage]

Thanks so much for your great replies.

Would I need medium or fine grade?

[Tato]

'Oh man', I was afraid you would ask such lol. That's the question with any or many answers...

Everything will depends on what type of vehicles you'll be dealing with.

If you are only taking care of your own car, it's well maintained, black and/or soft paint, you'll like the fine grade.

If you are working on many cars, mostly never clayed and not generally well maintained, you'll be looking for the medium grade always you can to get pretty results faster. However you'll deal with more marring, but you still will do a polishing step after claying to correct minor defects and remove clay marring.

I've ordered the fine grade and liked it very much but in no time I've ordered the medium grade. So when I was to answer which one should I get, I've got both!

My usage is just like described above: if I'm to clay a new, black or soft car, I reach for fine grade.

If I'm to clay a new / not so new, very contaminated, hard or silver (and related) colors, I'll reach the medium grade.

Please, if possible, share your thoughts on what you're willing to order.

Thank you in advance,

Kind Regards.

[KBsToy]

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. I can't tell a difference between the nano skin and speedy prep towel (I have both).

:iagree:

[KBsToy]

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. I can't tell a difference between the nano skin and speedy prep towel (I have both).

:dblthumb2:

[Woob]

Great product, do recommend just being careful and properly drying/breaking either rubber products. Using their lubricity agent is good too.