Need more cut, new machine or pad/compound? [Newb]

[jlinder]

I'm new to machine polishing having owned a PC for a few years and mainly using it on my own vehicles for a quick shine with poliseal or to apply a cleaner wax.

Now, my wife and I both upgraded our DD's so I have two vehicles to prepare for sale and two more to get into shape.

I started with the Meg's microfiber system on the pearl white Escalade and it turned out great. Today I started on the red Tundra and immediately noticed I either need more machine or better compound/pad combo. The improvement was noticeable but 5 or 6 section passes didn't remove the last 10% of light scratches. The caveat is I'm still learning so I need a combo that's forgiving (idiot proof).

The next two vehicles to polish are both SUV's so I have a lot of real estate to cover.

To my question would a different pad/compound combo gain me enough cut and efficiency with my PC or should I jump straight to a rupes or flex? For now free time is short so anything to make the process more time efficient would be ideal.

I do have dreams of working into detailing for profit some day as I gain more knowledge and skill. Its one thing I truly enjoy doing after a week in the trenches. If not for that I would work with what I have and call it good.

What I have now:

PC with 5" backing plate
Meg's microfiber system (pads, d300 & d301)
Clay, misc waxes and qd's
Misc LC finishing pads

Just ordered:

Optimum GPS, hydrotech pad assortment

If it matters I'm partial to Optimum products already as I love and use ONR, poliseal, power clean and the spray wax. Only picked up the Meg's stuff because it was available locally.

Here's the Caddy
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/22/3upebany.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Kaban]

I'd try a LC purple wool pad or a Scholl's SOFTouch white wool pad. Some paints are extremely hard and the wool pads destroy the MF pads in terms of cut, trust me I've tried every MF pad under the sun, there is no comparison.

The other issue you will have is the PC will bog down when you apply the necessary (and much needed) pressure to remove those deeper swirls and RIDS. I recommend a Flex 3401 or a rotary.

Buy the pads first and try them on the PC, if that doesn't do the trick, start considering a new machine.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Meg's MF cutting pads are the best. I'd really like to try Rupes MF pads. Generally speaking, you're using the most aggressive pad with a DA. D300 isn't the heaviest cut compound out there. Pick up some M101 if you want maximum cut. Although not quite as aggressive, I bet Wolfgang Uber compound would do the trick as well. The porter cable is clearly outdated. Pick up a Flex 3401 or Rupes.

If you're gonna try wool on your PC, ONLY go with the LC THIN purple foamed wool pads. The PC doesn't have even power or stroke length to handle the 1" pile wool pads.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dellinger]

If you are on the fence about dropping money for a new machine, a cheaper option is...

5" TufBuf or HD lambswool black pads (I like the HD wool pad better)
+ M100

Cuts very well, even on a PC.

And it goes without saying... you'll have to keep the arm speed SLOW.

[JamRWS6]

Like has been mentioned above adjust your pad and polish. Much cheaper than buying a new machine. You can get plenty of cut out of a DA polisher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CM8 6MT]

Meg's MF cutting pads are the best. I'd really like to try Rupes MF pads. Generally speaking, you're using the most aggressive pad with a DA. D300 isn't the heaviest cut compound out there. Pick up some M101 if you want maximum cut. Although not quite as aggressive, I bet Wolfgang Uber compound would do the trick as well. The porter cable is clearly outdated. Pick up a Flex 3401 or Rupes.

If you're gonna try wool on your PC, ONLY go with the LC THIN purple foamed wool pads. The PC doesn't have even power or stroke length to handle the 1" pile wool pads.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


+1

[ken tuep]

As I understand it, you're still working on a vehicle for sale correct? If so 90% correction is pretty good, considering most owners wont know what they are looking at.

If you're doing it as a bit more practice though, then I'd step up to a lc purple foamed wool as mentioned, and most any dedicated compound for removal of heavier defects should knock out the last bit. Good luck!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[OSP1560]

Do you have any close-ups? Also,that pic looks odd... Like photo-shopped.

[lawrenceSA]

I would like to throw my 2c in here.

All of my details (around 60 full corrections) have been done with a Dual Action machine (I guess it fits in somewhere between a Megs DA and PC)

Most of my work is on harder VAG clears and I have also done quite a few Audis and Mercs, even with Ceramic clears. So some pretty hard paint.

Admittedly on the very hard stuff, correction is slower than say a Flex or Rotary, but it can still be done. All my details are done over a weekend only.

My go-to compounds have been Menz FG400 and recently some Scholls S3 Gold, used in combination with Megs MF pads or foam pads (LC cyan/Orange etc), depending on the paint system.

I just think when using this machine, you REALLY need a slow arm movement (no more than 1" per second), a working area that is not too big (maybe 15" x 10" - I try work an area 3 pads sizes wide by 2 high, when using 5.5" pads) and to ensure you clean out your pads often (especially MF ones).

If you are only going to be prepping 2 vehicles for sale and then looking after 2, I do not see why your DA + some patience, along with the correct pad/compound combo can't get your through. Once the initial compounding is done, and with proper maintenance thereafter, you should only ever really need very light polishing work every 12 to 18 months, if that.... and surely the DA would be up to that task.....?

However, if you do intend on detailing for money later, perhaps the upgraded machines are a justified purchase at this point.

My opinion (for what it may be worth) is to master the DA with correct technique and product combos first, and if then the machine is the weak link in the equation, upgrade it.

[jlinder]

Do you have any close-ups? Also,that pic looks odd... Like photo-shopped.

I'll post some photos today.

Its actually almost 40 images combined, each lit with a strobe from a different angle. Or something like that.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[OSP1560]

I'll post some photos today.

Its actually almost 40 images combined, each lit with a strobe from a different angle. Or something like that.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

It does look cool. Nice home also

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I just think when using this machine, you REALLY need a slow arm movement (no more than 1" per second), a working area that is not too big (maybe 15" x 10" - I try work an area 3 pads sizes wide by 2 high, when using 5.5" pads) and to ensure you clean out your pads often (especially MF ones).




With all due respect, who would want to have to work that slow? It would take FOREVER to finish a car. If you want to use MF pads and go fast, buy a Rupes. End of story. :dblthumb2:

[KneeDragr]

With all due respect, who would want to have to work that slow? It would take FOREVER to finish a car. If you want to use MF pads and go fast, buy a Rupes. End of story. :dblthumb2:

I agree, 1" per second is too slow IMO, especially for that Escalade! Id much rather get a new polisher and quicken the job.

But I am surprised that the MF pads are not up to the task, thats either some rock hard paint or some very deep defects.

[Kaban]

I agree, 1" per second is too slow IMO, especially for that Escalade! Id much rather get a new polisher and quicken the job.

But I am surprised that the MF pads are not up to the task, thats either some rock hard paint or some very deep defects.

MF pads are more aggressive than foam, but they are no match for wool pads. Not surprised at all by this.

[CM8 6MT]

MF pads are more aggressive than foam, but they are no match for wool pads. Not surprised at all by this.


I agree, no match for wool+rotary.