View Full Version : Sign-up: May 2014 Detailing Boot Camp Class - Saturday May 3rd & Sunday May 4th

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Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:43 PM
Sign-up: May 2014 Detailing Boot Camp Class - Saturday May 3rd & Sunday May 4th (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/sign-up-detailing-bootcamp-class-2-day-class/75549-sign-up-may-2014-detailing-boot-camp-class-saturday-may-3rd-sunday-may-4th.html)

First things first and that's after you arrive, park your car, stretch your legs, sign-in and get your name tag there's hot coffee and fresh donuts!

Hot Coffee and Fresh Donuts!

Then everyone takes their seat and the schedule for each day is gone over and the Power Point starts with the order of steps to detail a car. We always focus on learning the information side first and then back it up with hands-on training and experience.



Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:44 PM
This course will cover the following tools on multiple cars

The NEW Rupes Duetto 12 and Mini 12


The Rupes Duetto 12
Here's my buddy Jay using the new Rupes Duetto 12 on my Silverado...




Rupes Mini 12
Here's my buddy Matt using the new Rupes Mini on thin panels...





Rupes LHR 15ES & LHR 21ES Random Orbital “Bigfoot" Polishers

Students will use both the Bigfoot 15 and 21 Polishers with the Rupes pads, compounds and polishes to learn Show Car Detailing. Mike always brings classics and streetrods to his classes for students to work on. Students will learn how to hold and use the Rupes polishers to remove swirls, scratches and water spots and then polish the paint to a high gloss finish. Afterwards, the paint will be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating using the newest technology currently introduced to the market.

Using the Rupes Bigfoot 15 to remove swirls from a 1959 Impala

Using the Rupes Bigfoot 21 to remove swirls out of a 1947 Buick Slantback Sedan


Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Students will use this tool set up with both 6.5" Hybrid Pads and 5" Hybrid Pads to do what Mike calls Show Car Detailing. Show car detailing is using a multiple step approach using dedicated compound and polishing steps to create a show car finish and then applying either a wax, sealant or coating to create a perfect shine. The choice of waxes, sealants or coatings will change as new products are introduced with the newest products on the market being showcased.

Using the Flex 3401 with a 5" Hybrid Pad on a 1940 Ford Coupe

Using the Flex 3401 with a 6.6" Hybrid Pad on a 1965 Mustang Convertible

Using the Flex 3401 with Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a 1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Racer


Rotary Buffers - Flex PE14 - DeWALT 849X - Makita 9227c
The rotary buffer is still the most powerful tool in the car detailing world and the tool able to remove the most serious of paint defects the fastest. It's also capable of polishing the paint and then jeweling the paint to a super high gloss finish.

Mike will take all the mystery out of using the rotary buffer as well as all of the risk associated with this favorite tool among professional detailers.

Each student will learn how to properly clean and spur wool pads plus how to use the 10 @ 10 Technique to pick up a bead of product. Correct technique for buffing out a car section by section will be learned for removing defects like sanding marks, water spots, swirls and scratches. Next students will learn to use foam pads to refine the results created by the wool pad step to a high gloss finish followed by learning to jewel the paint for a hologram-free finish. Afterwards, the car will be sealed using the latest technology in either a wax, sealant or coating.

Using the Flex PE14 to Jewel the paint to a high gloss on the original paint on a 1987 Corvette


Using the DeWALT 849X to remove sanding marks out of a 1963 Impala SS


Using the Makita Rotary Buffer to remove sanding marks from a 1987 K5 Blazer

Dual Action Polishers - Porter Cable 7424XP - Griot's Garage - Meguiar's G110v2

The dual action polishers is an amazing tool capable of incredible work when used correctly with the right pads, products and most important technique. Mike Phillips was working as a Trainer in the body shop industry when the Porter Cable polisher was first introduced to the paint polishing world. He has more articles, books, videos and hours as both a professional detailer and Instructor on how to use these versatile and capable tool.

Student will learn how to use these dual action polishers with both foam pads and microfiber pads to do both show car detailing and production detailing. They will also learn how to use these dual action polishers to machine wetsand to remove orange peel and other surface imperfections followed by how to use rotary buffers to remove sanding marks.

Using a Porter Cable 7424XP with Optimum Microfiber Pads to remove holograms from a 1954 Ford F100 http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford73.jpg

Machine Wetsanding the roof on a 1963 Impala SS with a Porter Cable 7424XP

Using the Meguiar's G110v2 and the Griot's dual action polishers to remove swirls out of a 1936 Ford Roadster


Cyclo Polishers
The new Model 5 Pro Series is on the left with the blue grip...

The synchronized movement of the Cyclo Polisher's dual orbiting heads effectively mirrors the overlapping, circular motion of fine hand polishing. The result is perfectly balanced machine that produces less vibration and leaves a mirror-like finish without swirl marks or risk of damage to paint.



Cyclo Polishers are also very versatile in that they can be used with an assortment of brushes to clean all types of surfaces including, leather, vinyl, carpet and upholstery, even non-skid boat surfaces in boats.


Cyclo Polishers can also be used as a mechanical means of removing above surface bonded contaminants like overspray paint, tree sap mist, industrial fallout and other air borne contaminants.




Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:45 PM
Headlight Restoration

Next up is headlight polishing, for this we used the Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight Correction System with a twist, I demonstrated the Meguiar's backing pad for the 3" Sanding Discs but then shared how they also fit on the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher and how working by machine takes all the work out of the project.

I also show how to use rotary buffers with wool pads to remove the sanding marks because it's the fastest way to get this job done so you can move on to the next segment of car detailing.

Wetting the face of the #1000 Unigrit Sanding Disc with plain water...

Hand sanding... (elbow grease)

Machine sanding (no elbow grease)

Everyone pretty much just wanted to work by machine... here's Jeff machine sanding a headlight lens...

Here's Stephan misting some water onto the face of the sanding disc...

Stephan machine sanding a headlight lens


Don machine sanding...

Glass Polishing

There's two types of glass polishing,
Removing topical water spots and road film.
Removing bellow surface scratches and pits.
Jeff using the Flex PE14 to machine polish glass...

Sean machine polishing glass...

Steve machine polishing glass...

Donovan machine polishing glass...

Our Detailing Book Camp classes are fast-paced and very busy all day, both days...

Tony machine polishing glass...

Don machine polishing glass...

Tyler machine polishing glass...


Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:45 PM
Cosmetic Engine Detailing

There are two types of engine detailing and in my class I teach cosmetic engine detailing because the safest, fastest, easiest and most profitable type of engine and engine compartment detailing to offer customers.

If you're wanting to detail your own engine compartment you'll learn everything you need to know to work safe and then you can take all the time you want on your own vehicles.

First we blew out all the loose debris using the Metro-Vac Sidekick and MasterBlaster...

Then we used Saran Wrap and Aluminum Tin Foil to cover and protect any water-sensitive components...



Next we used the Detailer's Rinseless Wash & Gloss (http://www.autogeek.net/dp-rinseless-four-in-one.html) to wet down the sides of the fenders and then the engine compartment...




Tony spraying down engine compartment...

Jeff spraying down engine compartment...

Steve spraying down engine compartment...

After wetting the engine we then sprayed in an APC and agitate it with a variety of brushes and then rinsed again. Then we used the MasterBlaster and the Sidekick to dry the engine compartment.



Blowing excess liquids into microfiber towles...



After drying the engine compartment we dress the engine compartment using the new Detailers Trim Detailer Aerosol spray.





Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:46 PM
Steam Cleaning

In the class we go over the benefits for cleaning using steam and tips and techniques for using steam cleaners.








Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:46 PM
Convertible Top Cleaning and Protecting

At all of my classes I bring in a car with a convertible, (canvas or vinyl), or a car with a vinyl top and we go over how to properly and safely clean a convertible top and then apply a protectant.

For this class we're using RaggTopp products to clean and protect a Canvas Top. The day before I washed the top carefully because it was dusty and had bug poo spots on it. To do this I used the RaggTopp Natural Horse Hair Convertible Top Brush and the RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner.

The horse hair brush has soft bristle so it wont' make your canvas top fuzzy looking by fraying the fibers. The RaggTopp Fabric Cleaner is safe so you're not using to harsh or strong a cleaner.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1446/2BootCamp116.jpg http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1446/2BootCamp117.jpg

After washing I blotted dry using Guzzler Waffle Weave drying towels. This was all done on Friday and then the top was allowed to FULLY DRY overnight and out in FULL SUN on Saturday until we pulled it into the garage for the protection step.

NOTE: Before you can apply the first application of a fabric protectant or any second or third applications of protectant, the top must be bone-dry in order for maximum bonding of the protection ingredients.

In the case of RaggTopp Fabric Protectant, this product uses Ciba Tinuvin UV Blockers, the most costly UV Blockers available for this application.

RaggTopp fabric cleaner and protectant are also endorsed and recommended by the Haartz Corporation as well as Rode & Schwalenber Gmbh. (Germany). Rode & Schwalenber have been manufacturing convertible top materials for 105 years and The Haartz Corporation manufactures the majority of convertible tops for auto manufactures world wide. Pretty good credentials.

In this shot I'm explaining how I cleaned the canvas top the day before and why not to use brushes with stiff, coarse bristles.

Using the aerosol RaggTopp Protectant is basically like using a can of spray paint

Hold the can about 12" away and use overlapping motions as you spray the protectant. Be sure to thoroughly spray any seams or stitching.

Here's Iain spraying on the RaggTopp Fabric Protectant...

Use an overlapping, sweeping motion...


In this shot, as I spray the leading edge I can't help but get a little overspray onto the glass but it's not a problem as the overspray will wipe off easily and if you get any on paint it's completely safe and won't cause any harm.

Here's Tony wiping overspray off the windshield using a clean, microfiber towel...


Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:47 PM
The Traditional Car Wash

First thing on Saturday morning we go over the traditional car wash approach where students get to learn and use all kinds of great products and tools including IronX, Foam Guns, Brushes of all types, Nanoskin Wash Mitts and a lot more...


Here's we're using Tornador Foam Guns to spray Detailers Wheel and Tire Cleaner...




Machine Scrubbing...




Wheel Woolies...


Mother's Fenderwell Brushes...




Iron X....


Rinsing - Note we did Wheels and Tires FIRST...


Now we move up and start at the roof and work our way down...








Boar's Hair Brushes...








Iron X Snow Soap in a Tornador Air Foam Gun...










Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:48 PM
Rinseless Washing

One of the demo cars is used to show tips and techniques for using a Rinseless Wash to clean a car safely without a hose and bucket.

Rinseless Wash and Waterless Wash
First up we need to get the exterior clean. For most classic and antique vehicles I never personally wash them and recommend to others to avoid washing them. The reason for this is to avoid getting water/moisture into places you cannot get to in order to dry completely thus potentially creating a rust problem. This is especially true for any body-off-frame restorations where someone has already invested a lot of time and money removing any rust.

Waterless and Rinseless Washing is the Trend
Waterless and Rinseless Washing has been the trend for years now and will continue to be the trend into the foreseeable future. Inf fact look for the term Blue Gold to be used more as it relates to clean water supplies.

To get the 1963 Chevy Impala clean we went over how to use both a Rinseless Wash and a Waterless Wash using products from the Detailer's Line. For this portion of the class I removed the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer from the Pad Washer Cart and placed a graduated 5-gallon bucket in it's place. With this set-up you don't have to bend over and you have a place to set your supply of clean microfiber towels and drying towels.


Avoiding instilling swirls and scratches when doing a rinseless or waterless wash means using lots of microfiber towels. The idea being is after you get dirt particles onto a microfiber towel you either turn to a clean side, rinse in your rinseless wash bucket or switch to a clean towel. (Your choice)


Rinseless Wash
Quality microfiber towels are soft to your paint when you wipe polish and wax residue off the surface and in the same way are soft to your car's paint when used with a rinseless or waterless wash.


In this demonstration I'm showing the extreme anal retentive way to clean the surface and that is to make two wipes with one towel and then retire the towel and start a new with a clean towel.


Waterless Wash
The key to using a waterless wash is to use the product liberally, that means use a LOT of product to hyper lubricate the surface.


Hands-on Time
Everyone gets with the program and gets this car washed and wiped clean...





Took us only a few minutes to get the clean and dry.

Waterless Wash

We also go over how to use a waterless wash. I work on a lot of classics, antiques and streetrods and to prevent rust issues on cars like these I always use a waterless wash to clean them before any other steps. In my detailing classes we always go over how to correctly do a waterless wash.

Here's a tip for anyone that owns a classic muscle car for how to get your car clean without having to use a traditional car wash using a hose and bucket and that's by using a waterless wash.

Here's why...

Washing a classic muscle car, or any classic or antique car using a hose and bucket flushes the car with a lot of water. Here's the problem... the water gets everywhere and by this I mean into places you cannot reach to dry and this creates a potential rust issue.

As a professional courtesy and as a professional "Best Practice" I don't wash classic, antique or muscle cars and I don't even use rinseless washes on them, I use waterless washes.

Example: 1963 Plymouth Fury
Last night we had a classic muscle car that has been recently painted. The car has overspray paint all over the paint, glass, trim, bumpers and pretty much everything on the exterior. Before we clayed the car and used the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads to remove the overspray the first thing we did was use a waterless wash to remove all the loose surface dirt and we did this two ways.

The first way we used the waterless was was using the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Sprayer (http://www.autogeek.net/mytee-big-boss-solution-sprayer.html). Now this isn't the type of tool the casual car owner buys to wash a couple of classic cars out in the garage. It is the type of tool a mobile detailer could use save their hands from getting carpel tunnel or repetitive motion injuries. It's a very cool tool that will lay down a waterless wash with the pull of a trigger.

Here's Andy using the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Spray using Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash Concentrate mixed 1 to 3. The holding tank on the Big Boss holds 5 gallons so mixing this concentrate is a simple as adding one gallon of the concentrate to 3 gallons of water to create 4 gallons of ready to use waterless wash.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_001.jp g

The Big Boss comes with both a short nozzle sprayer for wetting down car exteriors or a wand sprayer for extended reach. In this shot Andy is using the short nozzle sprayer.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_002a.j pg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_002.jp g

After wetting the hood and front grill and bumper Andre moves in to spread the product around and wipe these areas clean.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_003.jp g

Andy tackles the bumper and front grill...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_004.jp g

Simple Method
The simple way to use a waterless wash is to simply use a spray bottle to wet the surface. Here's John using Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash to wipe the roof clean...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_005.jp g

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1914/Mytee_Big_BOS_Rechargeable_Solution_Sprayer_006.jp g


Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:48 PM
Interior Detailing - Cleaning and Dressing Leather & Vinyl

Tips and techniques for cleaning and protecting leather and vinyl seats is covered including little tips like how to clean a grimy steering wheel using Microfiber Gloves...


Leather Interiors
Note this car was restored and very low mileage since the restoration so the interior is still in excellent condition but you can see where the Pinnacle Leather Cleaner & Conditioner (http://www.pinnaclewax.com/fcopileclco.html) restored the richness of color to the black leather and vinyl surfaces.






Vinyl Interior

Lots of cars have vinyl seats and dirt and grime builds up on these surfaces over time so we go over tips and techniques for cleaning vinyl interiors.








Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:49 PM
We'll also be going over the new additions to the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System

The below is from a last class where my class took a trashed BLACK Cadillace and turned it into a show car using the Meguiar's MF System.

Meguiar's Microfiber DA..." target="_blank">Meguiar's Microfiber DA...


Swirls in full sun


Here's what the paint looks like in the studio under the florescent lights...










How to use the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/56172-how-use-meguiar-s-microfiber-da-correction-system.html)

Next up... we'll see how the class does using the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System to remove the swirls and scratches out of a 2008 Cadillac with factory black basecoat/clearcoat paint.

Here's the system our students get to learn how to use in entirety...


Here's our victim... a trashed 2008 Cadillac CTS. Looks good in the shade huh?


Doesn't look as good in full sun...



Here's what the paint looks like in the studio under the florescent lights...


A clean approach
One of the benefits to the D300 and the D301 is you don't have to tape and cover everything off.

That said I have my students for 2 days so I like to share as many tips and techniques as possible and that includes the Beach Towel Tip to cover the wiper arms and the plastic surrounding the wiper arms common to new cars.

They can use this technique to cover these areas and avoid getting splatter on everywhere no matter what product line they're using, they can make this decision, my job is to just show the technique.


The Beach Towel Tip does come in hand for anytime you're using a rotary buffer to reduce clean-up of the windshield, fresh air grills, wipers and plastic around the wipers.


New to machine polishing
Since some of the people attending this class have never worked by machine before including a Meguiar's G110v2 Dual Action Polisher, one of the things I like to do is to show them in a very dramatic way how safe they actually are for your car's paint by turning the polisher on and then,

Holding the pad against my hand...

Actually holding the pad with my hand with the tool turned on...

Pressing it against my hand in the same way it would be pressed against paint - point being it's a completely safe tool even for a beginner.

After centering and placing the pad onto the matching backing plate, the next thing you want to do is prime your pad.


Apply some product directly to the face of the pad and then spread it over the face and work it in well to the microscopic fibers that make microfiber what it is...


You know your students are paying close attention to any topic with pictures like these...


After priming the pad and thoroughly working the D300 Correction Compound over and into the fibers then add 3 small drops of product to the face of the pad and you're ready to start removing swirls and scratches.


Speed Setting 4
Meguiar's recommends 4800 OPM's for removing defects and on the Meguiar's G110v2 you would put the speed setting on the 4 on the variable dial.


Hold the pad flat to the surface, this is done best by using your forward hand to apply pressure directly over the top of the head of the polisher.


Make slow overlapping passes
Then make slow, overlapping passes working a small section of paint at one time. a two foot squared section is usually too large to tackle at one time, especially for a finish with as many swirls and scratches as this Cadillac had, so use good judgment and divide each panel up into smaller sections and then work one section at a time.

When you finish with one section, inspect your results and if the results look good move onto a new section and overlap a little into the previous section.


Inspect Results
After demonstrating how slow to move the polisher over the surface, the size of a section to tackle at one time and what "Section Passes" are and how to do them we turned the polisher off and inspected the results from the compounding step.

RIDS = Random Isolated Deeper Scratches - Not to worry...
In this picture I'm pointing out a random, deeper isolated scratch still remaining while pointing out the millions of swirls and scratches in the paint before we started are now completely removed. No matter what car you buff out you will always tend to have a few deeper scratches that remain and after removing the thousands of scratches that were surrounding them these remaining deeper scratches will tend to stick out like a Sore Thumb.


Second Step - D301 Finishing Wax
Although the results look great there is some light hazing which is really easy to see on black colored cars, but that's okay because the first step is the aggressive compounding step, the next step refines the results from the compounding step to produce a clear, swirl-free finish.

Finishing out...
For the D301 Finishing Wax you don't need to move as slow, use as much speed or as much downward pressure. The Finishing Wax offers light cleaning ability, just enough to remove any haze left by the D300 Correction Compound while leaving a layer of protection behind on the finish. So this step should go a lot quicker and you can tend to tackle a larger section. For speed setting, for the Meguiar's G110v2 set the variable speed dial to the 3 setting.

Here's Audry removing swirls and scratches out of the passenger side fender using the D300 Correction Compound

Here's Erik removing swirls and scratches out of the hood, note how he places his hand inside the D-Handle to position his hand directly onto the head of the polisher.


Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:52 PM
Hand Sanding and Machine Sanding then using Rotary Buffers

In my detailing classes I share the correct techniques for hand sanding major flat panels as well as how to machine sand using 3M Orbital Air Sanders plus the PC style DA Polishers including the 3" Griot's Garage Mini Polisher as a dampsander.

We use both 3M Trizact discs and Meguiar's Unigrit Finishing Discs in 3" and 6" sizes. After sanding I show how to use a wool pad on a rotary buffer with Meguiar's M105 to remove the sanding marks followed by Meguiar's M205 to remove any holograms left by the wool pad and the M105.

I also show how to use DA Polishers for the final machine polishing step to ensure a swirls free finish on any type of paint with both Meguiar's M205 and Menzerna SF 4500

Here's some shots showing busy, hands-on training and practicing...

Here's Audrey showing the guys how to machine sand using the 3M Orbital Air Sander


Audrey has never machine sanded before so after this class she's going to be able to talk about the topic intelligently and she's going to know what she's getting into if one of her customers asks to have their car wetsanded.



Here she is doing it all by her self...


Perfectly making overlapping passes with a quick arm speed...


Now she's using the Porter Cable 7424XP to do the same thing but without having to manage an air line under pressure trying to control the sander.





Time to hand sand, first I show what not to do...


Then I show here what to do...


She has the technique down but says she finds machine sanding easier and faster...


Here we go over the 10 @ 10 Technique




Frank's turn...


Since I already buffed with the pad it needs to be cleaned first, so I show Frank how to use a steel pad cleaning spur.




Now it's time to remove some sanding marks...



Jay's turn...


Time to inspect...


Lester's turn with the rotary buffer...




Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:53 PM
Next up is using a foam polishing pad with a rotary buffer to remove holograms left by the wool pad...





Time to inspect the results...


Looks good!


Here's Chris trying out the Flex PE14 with a Meguiar's W66 Solo Flexible Backing Plate and a 7" Softbuff Foam Polishing Pad with Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish.



Here's Eric cleaning a wool pad in a pad washer...


Here's Jay using a Lake Country 6.5" wool cutting pad on a Flex PE14 to remove sanding marks...


After cleaning the pad, Eric is back at work...


Dueling Rotary Buffers!


Lester tries out the Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher to remove swirls...


Here's Keith using the 3" Griot's Mini Polisher as a Surgical Dampsander....


Here's Erik using the 3" Griot's Mini Polisher as a Surgical Dampsander....


Because of the size this tool is very easy to control and that makes it easy to sand close to edges or in tight areas...


Here's Jeff using the Flex 3401 with a white 5" Hybrid Polishing Pad removing holograms...



Clean you pads often
It's so important to always be cleaning your pad to remove both the paint and the used-up product off the face of your pad or buffing will become more difficult, less effective and wipe-off of residue will become gummier...


Erik testing out the Flex PE14 with a polishing pad to remove holograms...


After these classes are over my panels usually look like black mirrors...


Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:54 PM
How to buff out street rods...







Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:54 PM
How to buff use a rotary buffer... on cool cars!












Mike Phillips
01-20-2014, 01:57 PM
Rupes Project Car to really get some hands-on time with the Rupes Polishers


Rupes Detailing Classes

Video documenting the true before condition

Rupes Polishers & Rupes Detailing Classes at Autogeek
Autogeek.net carries the complete line of Rupes polishers, pads and products at our warehouse in Stuart, Florida. We've also added dedicated car detailing classes for both the Rupes Bigfoot 15 and the 21 Polishers at our Detailing Boot Camp Classes.

We hold these classes three times a year (http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-boot-camp.html) here at our Corporate Office in Stuart, Florida.

For these classes, I get my students the real deal, that is I get scratched, swirled-out and oxidized street rods, muscle cars and/or classic cars, for my students to get plenty of hands-on training time behind the Rupes polishers. For a lot of people, the chance to work on the type of cool cars I use in my classes not only makes the learning process a lot more fun and memorable but it might be the only opportunity you get to work on cars like these.

For this class we're using a hotrod 1963 Ford Galaxie!

Autogeek's fully equipped training garage

Waterless Wash for Classics, Muscle Cars and Streetrods...
I teach my class to never introduce running water to classic cars as a professional courtesy to the owner of these types of cars and as a professional best practice. This helps to reduce the potential for water to get into places that you cannot see or reach and thus creating a rust issue for cars already considered survivors.





Mechanically decontaminate the paint
The paint on this 1963 Ford Galaxie had some type of above surface bonded contaminants on the paint. To remove these contaminants before machine polishing we used the Nanoskin Autoscrub Towels.



Swirls and scratches
The paint on this car was filled with swirls and scratches, there were holograms in the finish which are the sign it was improperly machine buffed using a rotary buffer.

This 1963 Ford Galaxie has a modern basecoat/clearcoat paint job just like the car sitting in your driveway. When the clear layer has millions of swirls and scratches this makes the clear paint hazy and cloudy so your eyes cannot see through it to the beautiful colored basecoat below it. In this case the paint is Chestnut Metallic.


Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done

I teach the sage wisdom of always using the least aggressive product (and pad), to get the job done because this practice will remove the defects while leaving the most paint on the car to last over the service life of the car.

Test Spot Number 1
For our first Test Spot we're using the Rupes Bigfoot 21 Orbital Polisher with a Rupes Yellow foam pad and the Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Cut Polish.

I show my class how to pick up a thin, bead of product using a modified version of the 10 @ 10 Technique which pulls the bead or strip of product under the pad trapping it between the pad and the paint instead of splattering it.

For our first



Test Spot Number #2
The first combination of pad and product removed the shallow swirls but it wasn't aggressive enough or fast enough to meet our requirements and expectations for the finish quality on this car's paint.

Next we tried the Rupes Green foam pad and the Rupes Quarz Gloss Medium Cut Polish. Note we're doing this Test Spot in a new section of paint as re-doing the test spot to an area we already polished would skew the results.






Perfect Finish
The more aggressive green pad and polish worked perfect on this paint system to remove the defects and restore a clear, high gloss finish.


Tape-off and Cover-up
I teach my class to wait till they've proven a system that will remove the defects and restore a finish that meets their expectations. You never know, something could be out of your control and taping off a car before you dial in your system could end up being a waste of time.

After we proved our system approach we went ahead and used the beach towel technique to cover and protect the fresh air grill, wipers and windshield from any accidental splatter. Remember for most of the people in this class this will be the first time they've either machine buffed and/or used the Rupes system and usually both.



Hands-on Training
After taping off and covering over things like the convertible top with a tape line surrounding the areas close to body panels the class dives in using the buddy system. Students are paired up with one person buffing and the other person watching their technique as compared to what is taught during the power point presentation and when I demonstrate the tool. The person not buffing is also responsible for making sure the cord is not touching the paint and if it is, gently reminding their buddy to place the cord over their shoulder. They are also responsible to carefully wipe off the product residue. After the first buddy buffs a section of a panel they switch places with the second buddy and repeat the above process. By watching and working together, both people learn from what is done correctly and also by any mistakes that are made. This is a system I've developed on my own and is very effective.


As you look through these pictures, take note of how much room there is for everyone to buff. Classic body designs from Detroit offer plenty of real-estate to learn on and practice your technique.










Small, Compact Polisher for Thin Panels or Intricate Areas
For doing small, thin panels we're using the Griot's 3" Mini Polisher with the 4" Rupes Pads. In my opinion, there's not only room in the market place for a REALLY GOOD mini or small orbital polisher but there's a HUGE DEMAND for a tool like this also.








Hands-On Training
When I say hands-on... I mean hands-on... Sometimes the fastest way to dial-in your technique is to have someone physically place their hands on your hands as you grip the polisher and show you,

How much or how little downward pressure to use.
Which directions to move the polisher.
How fast or slow to move the polisher.
The size of an area to tackle at one time.
How to divide up larger panels into smaller sections.



Show Car Techniques - Machine Applying a Show Car Paste Wax
As the saying goes, there's all kinds of ways to skin a cat. At my classes I show multiple ways to "seal" the paint after polishing. For this car I'm going to show my class how to machine apply a true show car paste wax to create a deep, wet shine.