To clay or not to clay - that is the question

[makdaddy626]

Just got my order in from AG and looking forward to spending the 4th trying out some of the products. My question is, do I need to clay, and how safe is it to clay?

The truck (Black Sand Pearl - Tacoma) was purchased from the dealer less than a month ago but I don't how long it was on the lot before, the paint feels smooth to me with only the minor swirling you would expect on a new car.

I ordered the Pinnacle Clay Kit, but now am wondering if I should use it or not? I've never used clay before and don't know if the risk is worth the reward? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[whitespy9]

From my experience and readings... clay is non-abrasive to the clear coat. Meaning there is no risk to using clay, as long as, you are working with a properly lubricated surface.

[makdaddy626]

Thanks for the quick response. If I could alter the question a little, I'd love to know...

Does anyone have ANY horror stories of claying gone wrong?

[Driven Auto Detail]

IMO, claying is one of the most under-rated tools in the detailing world (even on new cars). If you're using OTC clays, you shouldn't have any problems scratching/marring the surface. Meg's red clay is about the only clay I can think of off the top of my head that might cause some marring.

[makdaddy626]

mshu7, I see you have an '07 Taco with the TRD package listed in your sig. Any tips on detailing one? Planning on using Klasse AIO and WG DGPS - all applied by hand. Do you tape off the TRD graphics? Also, I've notice there's a thin rubber piece between the fender and the fender flare, it's so thin seems it would be a pain to tape, ANY advice would be appreciated.

[Mike T]

Try the "bag" method. Put your hand in a plastic bag and run it over the surface. If it feels rough then you need to clay. claying isn't a must, but it does help.

[Driven Auto Detail]

mak,

I just got my Taco last week. Unfortunately, last night was the first night I had time to even WASH it :( . I took Wednesday - Friday off this week so I plan on doing a full detail one of those days.

I don't think you'll go wrong with Klasse AIO & WG DGPS. I've used the AIO (ordered more if that tells ya anything) but I've not used the WG DGPS. Lots of people love both products so I think you're good there. Since you're applying by hand, no need to tape off. You should be able to apply both products to the TRD graphics w/o any concerns.

[Nica]

I don't think you can clay wrong....actually you can. Just remember if you decide to clay to keep the surface lubricated or clay right after you washed the vehicle. Claying, in my opnion, is a must weather the vehicle is new or old. I've clayed brand new vehicles and you will be shocked at the contaminents that come of the vehicles. I was a skepting when I first started claying because I didn't bleave in it. Now that I've gotten my self quite deep into the detailing claying is your best friend to achive a great exterior looking vehicle...just my $0.02

[ejflanag]

I also feel claying is a must plus if you are puting a wax on after i feel it makes the wax go on and come off easier. I use clay before i wax and polish and i feel it makes the job easier to work on a smoother vehicle.

[makdaddy626]

Ok gues, I'm going to give the clay a try. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully none of this will end in tears. ;)

[Thejoyofdriving]

Allways clay!:awesome:

[devst8]

every car I detail, I clay it. period

[TOGWT]

From my experience and readings... clay is non-abrasive to the clear coat. Meaning there is no risk to using clay, as long as, you are working with a properly lubricated surface.
Not sure were you read that but its misinformation-clay contains abrasives!

How it works- detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication. Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) the sheared particles are encapsulated by the clay. Clay being an abrasive product will remove a percentage of both natural and synthetic wax and most polymer sealants, therefore a paint surface protection should be applied after use.

:cheers:

[whitespy9]

Thanks you for posting the correct information. I guess what I was trying to get across is that the clay isn't going to harm your car's paint if used right.


Not sure were you read that but its misinformation-clay contains abrasives!

How it works- detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication. Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) the sheared particles are encapsulated by the clay. Clay being an abrasive product will remove a percentage of both natural and synthetic wax and most polymer sealants, therefore a paint surface protection should be applied after use.

:cheers:

[A1monky]

trust me clay is abrasive... I just tested DP clay and poly clay under the lights. And I found marring with both bars. But, I applied DP 101 to the door and the next morning checked the results and no marring was visible under direct sun light. So, the point is, clay is imparitive to prep for polishing.