Meg's #7 showcar glaze topped with sealant..??

[Rival]

Hello,

just wanted to know how Blackfire wet diamond or Klasse sealant (silver bottle) will bond on top of meg's show car #7....???

i have a bottle of show #7 and want to begin to use it.

Typically i compound/polish out and use one of those two sealants and than sometimes a coat of wax on top....but would like to add in the show 7 into the mix.

plan would be to


wash&clay
comp/polish
show #7
sealant (one of the 2)
wax (have lots, depends on paint system + color)


anyone already doing this?

[CM8 6MT]

What are you working on, SS or CC paint?

[Rival]

CC paints....newer cars

[CM8 6MT]

Meguiars #7 was designed specifically for single stage paints. With that said, its best suited for single stage paints. The product is very old. You can use it with clear coat paint systems, but there are far better glaze products available on the market. CG EZ Creme Glaze & WG 2.0 just to name a few. I would recommend them over Megs #7 on clears.

[Rival]

i know...just dont wana spend 60/70bux on a decent size bottle of wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0

I bought a the biggest jug of WG TSR 3.0 and want to use up other things before i start buying more stuff.


Cant tell you how many bottles i have with 50% or less in them. tons of random things. trying to figure out ways to use them.

[a g thang]

From what I've heard wg finishing glaze is a fine polish not so much a glaze. I agree cm8. I'd like to add prima amigo and cg glossworks are a couple other good glazes. Wg2.0 is my personal favorite but it is not sold anymore.


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[lkotsios]

Meguiars #7 was designed specifically for single stage paints. With that said, its best suited for single stage paints. The product is very old. You can use it with clear coat paint systems, but there are far better glaze products available on the market. CG EZ Creme Glaze & WG 2.0 just to name a few. I would recommend them over Megs #7 on clears.
Isn't clear coat just paint without pigment anyways?

[Mike Phillips]

i know...just dont wana spend 60/70bux on a decent size bottle of wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0







Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze is a true glaze in the historical use of the word.

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a Fine Cut Polish. Two completely different products. Both are very good at what they do but very different products.


I explain ALL of this in my how-to books and also in this article...


Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/39020-word-definitions-compounds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html)


:)

[Desertnate]

Meguiars #7 was designed specifically for single stage paints. With that said, its best suited for single stage paints. The product is very old. You can use it with clear coat paint systems, but there are far better glaze products available on the market. CG EZ Creme Glaze & WG 2.0 just to name a few. I would recommend them over Megs #7 on clears.

I've never used #7, but from what Mike has discussed here, the oils in the product are part of what makes it so great on those old SS paints. I would think the oils that make #7 such a great product to freshen up old SS paint would make it very difficult to for any sealant to bond to the paint and do it's job for any length of time.

Klasse from my experience (and other sealants from what I've read) needs a clean surface. The rejuvinating oils in #7 would probably keep that from happining. The sealant might work for a while, but not as long as it should.

[Rival]

yea, the more ive looked into it i wont be topping sealant on top of #7. just wax.

[CM8 6MT]

I've never used #7, but from what Mike has discussed here, the oils in the product are part of what makes it so great on those old SS paints. I would think the oils that make #7 such a great product to freshen up old SS paint would make it very difficult to for any sealant to bond to the paint and do it's job for any length of time.

Klasse from my experience (and other sealants from what I've read) needs a clean surface. The rejuvinating oils in #7 would probably keep that from happining. The sealant might work for a while, but not as long as it should.


That could very well be the case, although I am no expert on the chemistry behind these products, its widely accepted that something from the same brand would work hand in hand with #7. For example applying M26 ontop of #7 is a widely practised application. I couldn't tell you if any of the Megs sealants would work with #7 from experience( i would imagine they would), as I stopped using #7 along time ago.

[Hoytman]

...I would think the oils that make #7 such a great product to freshen up old SS paint would make it very difficult to for any sealant to bond to the paint and do it's job for any length of time.
I'll add a wax to that...

At least that's always been my thought since #7 is so oily. Does synergistic compatibility apply with this Meguiar's product? Can't answer that for certain. Perhaps Mike Phillips or someone from Meguiar's could chime in. Good ol' #7 seems to be a bird of it's own kind...

Here's another recent thread related to this topic.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/75199-meguiar-s-7-26-a.html





... The rejuvinating oils in #7 would probably keep that from happining. The sealant might work for a while, but not as long as it should.

I agree, but can't prove it.

To me, applying M7 to single stage and clear coat paints are two entirely different animals for two different reasons. That's just me though.

[FUNX650]

I still say that a vehicle's CC-paint is at its most dense state (its least porous, as well as its "hardest") at the OEM assembly plant---right before the vehicle leaves on a transport to its destination.

From that moment on: CC-paint begins it journey towards the end of its useful service life.
During this journey it is continually being bombarded by contaminates, environmental conditions, and its incurring various methods of care, or lack thereof...some of which are quite injurious!

It is my belief that, because of the above "bombardments":
CC-paint does/will become less dense---more porous...some faster than others.
That is why, IMHO: M07 is also of benefit to BC/CC paint systems.

As much of a benefit as it is to SS-paint systems?
I see no reason to split hairs.

:)

Bob

[Rival]

I still say that a vehicle's CC-paint is at its most dense state (its least porous, as well as its "hardest") at the OEM assembly plant---right before the vehicle leaves on a transport to its destination.

From that moment on: CC-paint begins it journey towards the end of its useful service life.
During this journey it is continually being bombarded by contaminates, environmental conditions, and its incurring various methods of care, or lack thereof...some of which are quite injurious!

It is my belief that, because of the above "bombardments":
CC-paint does/will become less dense---more porous...some faster than others.
That is why, IMHO: M07 is also of benefit to BC/CC paint systems.

As much of a benefit as it is to SS-paint systems?
I see no reason to split hairs.

:)

Bob


i agree on that.....Ive used it on 10/12yr old cars that have most likely been outside 95% of their lifetime and it does bring them back, even before you put on a LSP.

[Hoytman]

I still say that a vehicle's CC-paint is at its most dense state (its least porous, as well as its "hardest") at the OEM assembly plant---right before the vehicle leaves on a transport to its destination.

From that moment on: CC-paint begins it journey towards the end of its useful service life.
During this journey it is continually being bombarded by contaminates, environmental conditions, and its incurring various methods of care, or lack thereof...some of which are quite injurious!

It is my belief that, because of the above "bombardments":
CC-paint does/will become less dense---more porous...some faster than others.
That is why, IMHO: M07 is also of benefit to BC/CC paint systems.

As much of a benefit as it is to SS-paint systems?
I see no reason to split hairs.

:)

Bob
There may be some truth in what you are saying, Bob. There seems to be quite a few discussions on the topic of clear coat being porous, or not, but I've never really seen anything 'official' that confirms, or denies. So then, the question becomes at what point is M7 beneficial to clear coat paint and when should I begin to apply it to clear coat paint?

Do I think it's possible for cc paint to be porous, perhaps, but to a different degree, and therefore I think soak times will be much more noticably shorter.

It seems if OEM paint is at it's hardest at the beginning then it could be a waste when used on new vehicles to use M7 for the purpose of keeping the paint from degrading.

If what I've read about Optimum Car Wax having patented UV inhibitors that actually soak into the paint as being true, then it would make sense that it is the only product that may have potential to stop and maybe even to reverse these effects of aging caused by UV. Of course UV doesn't seem to be the only factor determining paint life, but indeed an important one. Speculating of course.

Along the same line of thought...

I wonder if the oils in M205 are the same, or similar in some ways, as those in M7? If so, then M205 is certainly a better choice as a defect removing polish, but then we're still left with the concern of the oils, if they're the same or very similar as M7, causing adhesion issues with the wax/sealant of choice. Then again, if those oils are similar, and what we are told about synergistic compatibility is true, then there's no worry of when to apply M7...be it before wax, or after, and no worry for adhesion issues.

Getting a little deep for me...but, if you're thoughts are true, then I might use M7 to maintain the life of my clear coat paint and use it in the same manner as for single stage by letting it soak as long as it will be absorbed. It doesn't seem that it would need to soak in for the same duration as single stage paints.

Just thinking outloud for the sake of discussion. I don't have any definitive answers.