Meguiar's #7 & #26:

[Hoytman]

Many of you are aware that Meguiar's M7 is an awesome product for reviving single stage paint. However, I've seen mixed reviews/comments about using it on clearcoat paints.

A friend of mine owns a nice black motorcyle and he uses these two products (for his own reasons) together and in order of the numbers on the bottles. His paint is CC paint. He uses M7 first, then tops it with M26.

Knowing that M7 is an oily product, and knowing his bike's paint is CC paint based on his own comments, I suggested using M26 first then M7 when he really wants to amp up the gloss or hide some swirls. He disagreed.

With the theme of not trying to be a know-it-all (I too can learn something each day), how do you all feel about my suggestions to my friend?

[c8n]

M07 is a polish and M26 is a wax
Polish and then Wax

[Jaretr1]

I had to double check myself, but this is what is on the AG product desciption page:

Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze is a true high-yield polish with no protective qualities. Be certain to follow application with a coat of top-quality wax such as Meguiar’s Premium Paint Protection or Meguiar’s Hi-Tech Paste Wax #26. The rich emollients and nourishing oils in #7 Show Car Glaze produce a very deep, heavy mirror-gloss shine. #7 is safe to use on all paints and clear coats.

[FUNX650]

Hi Bill...

When I'm going to use these two fine Meguiar's products in conjunction with each other:
I apply #7 first...then #26.

However...Let it be known:
This will not preclude my applying some #7 atop #26...or other LSP's...at Car Shows (mostly indoor ones).

And:
Some find it hard to believe that I've even mixed these two products together (50/50) for applications to vehicles.
This method, IMO, saves me one less trip going:
Up, down, and all around the vehicle.

Just so many miles in them legs!!

:)

Bob

[HateSwirls]

I've used #7 on clear coats but didn't see a need for it, just didn't do much.
I'd prefer using EZ Cream Glaze.
On the other hand #7 works wonders on SS paints.

[MarkD51]

I've never found Meg's #7 to be an easy product to work with. I never have enjoyed scrubbing this product off of paints, like I'm scrubbing some filthy kitchen floors. #9 I have found, was easier IMO. A whole lot easier. My friend Butch, with a 96 point Golden Spinner Award 1968 SS396 Chevelle used to use nothing but #9 on single stage black laquer.

Now, something like Poor Boys Black Hole? A darn beautiful Glaze! Superb IMO, easy off, like you've just applied WGDGPS 3.0, that easy.

Meg's #26? I never liked this product, wouldn't take it for free from my experiences with this product. Smeary, greasy, and gone in a wash. It's all silicones. Good for show, but not a daily driver, no protection, and forget about bird bombs.

I'd rather take Meg's 20, or 21 Sealants.

[brianshaeffer]

I used Meguiars 7, along with liquid Souveran on my wife's black Buick Regal. It definitely added to the liquid Souveran shine, and was worth the extra effort. I also now use a modern glaze, CG Glossworkz, but have never done a comparison.

[Hoytman]

Hi Bill...



However...Let it be known:
This will not preclude my applying some #7 atop #26...or other LSP's...at Car Shows (mostly indoor ones).



Bob

I know of several people who've used these products at shows exactly in the manner you (...and I) mentioned, Bob, and that's why I suggested he reverse his approach.

[Meticulous-Detail]

I have Wet Glaze 2.0, CG Glossworkz and M7. I save M7 for SS paint, but love using Wet Glaze below and on top of my LSP. My car always gets a coat of WG before a show.

[Hoytman]

I save M7 for SS paint, but love using Wet Glaze below and on top of my LSP. My car always gets a coat of WG before a show.

I save my M7 for single-stage paint as well, but if I had minor swirls that needed hiding before a show I might use M7 for the job...then again a wax or spray product from the Meguiars Gold Class (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-gold-class.html) would do the same job and be much easier to use for hiding swirls.

Heard a lot about WG, but never had the opportunity to use it. Not even sure where to buy it.

[Meticulous-Detail]

I save my M7 for single-stage paint as well, but if I had minor swirls that needed hiding before a show I might use M7 for the job...then again a wax or spray product from the Meguiars Gold Class (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-gold-class.html) would do the same job and be much easier to use for hiding swirls.

Heard a lot about WG, but never had the opportunity to use it. Not even sure where to buy it.

Can't get it anymore, bought a case before they stopped manufacturing it.

[cardaddy]

I honestly don't see the need for #7 on CC unless you're trying to hide swirls that you just don't want to buff out to begin with. But that's just me. :dunno:

Don't get me wrong, I was using #7 by hand YEARS ago, long before I ever got into "detailing" as it is these days. I was also using M26 (paste) as well as I was M83 all by hand. (These days I'll do everything I can by machine. Because my mid-back just doesn't like all that hand work.)

I've seen guys with garage queens that live and die by a glaze staying on there all the time. Top that with something, anything, that'll make it shiny. Just so happens that M26 plays well with #7 so there ya' go. ;)

They do it because I honestly think they DON'T KNOW what a swirl is! Much less.... they HAVE NO IDEA how to get rid of them. Remember, most people don't have anything that even resembles a PC or GG and probably don't even have a motorized "wax spreader" (whether it's a 6" or a10" from the local Wal-Mart). Everything is done by hand, and as long as you keep all the scratches full and level then you don't know they are there. :eek:

I have a friend that feels that way about most of his cars as well. He has a ton of cars, old muscle cars, new muscle cars, doesn't matter. He just wants them two ways, "clean" & "shiny". He can't see a swirl! Only after I did a 50/50 on his last Viper did he even know what I was talking about! (It was a 2009 in red btw.) His new one is triple black and due a coating, but as far as he's concerned it'll wait. (Till I either feel like doing it, or get over back surgery.)

You should see his 2012 dark blue GT500! Freaking crazy soft paint that is swirled all to heck and back. He uses a single SMALL bucket to wash, (I did talk him into blowing them dry last year) but then he'll finish drying with a cheap OTC microfiber, and whatever Mothers spray wax he can find while using the same towel on the roof that he uses behind the tires. :eek: Drive it, throw a cover on it, wipe it down, drive it. Gets too dirty, buys a new one! :D

[FUNX650]

I honestly don't see the need for #7 on CC unless you're trying to hide swirls that you just don't want to buff out to begin with. But that's just me. :dunno:

Don't get me wrong, I was using #7 by hand YEARS ago, long before I ever got into "detailing" as it is these days. I was also using M26 (paste) as well as I was M83 all by hand. (These days I'll do everything I can by machine. Because my mid-back just doesn't like all that hand work.)

I've seen guys with garage queens that live and die by a glaze staying on there all the time. Top that with something, anything, that'll make it shiny. Just so happens that M26 plays well with #7 so there ya' go. ;)

They do it because I honestly think they DON'T KNOW what a swirl is! Much less.... they HAVE NO IDEA how to get rid of them. Remember, most people don't have anything that even resembles a PC or GG and probably don't even have a motorized "wax spreader" (whether it's a 6" or a10" from the local Wal-Mart). Everything is done by hand, and as long as you keep all the scratches full and level then you don't know they are there. :eek:

I have a friend that feels that way about most of his cars as well. He has a ton of cars, old muscle cars, new muscle cars, doesn't matter. He just wants them two ways, "clean" & "shiny". He can't see a swirl! Only after I did a 50/50 on his last Viper did he even know what I was talking about! (It was a 2009 in red btw.) His new one is triple black and due a coating, but as far as he's concerned it'll wait. (Till I either feel like doing it, or get over back surgery.)

You should see his 2012 dark blue GT500! Freaking crazy soft paint that is swirled all to heck and back. He uses a single SMALL bucket to wash, (I did talk him into blowing them dry last year) but then he'll finish drying with a cheap OTC microfiber, and whatever Mothers spray wax he can find while using the same towel on the roof that he uses behind the tires. :eek: Drive it, throw a cover on it, wipe it down, drive it. Gets too dirty, buys a new one! :D
Per my "alludings" found in my original response to Bill's thread starter:
Am I to be pigeon-holed by your opinions in your above posting?

Nay, I say!

:)

Bob

[cardaddy]

Per my "alludings" found in my original response to Bill's thread starter:
Am I to be pigeon-holed by your opinions in your above posting?

Nay, I say!

:)

Bob

Bob, "pigeon-holed", I think not.

Best I can tell we both use 7/26 in the same manner(s). Usually 7 first, but not always. Yet for having 7 on top, for weekend car shows, ESPECIALLY if they are indoors (or at the very least outdoors with no chance of moisture, not even evening dew falling) as that is where it 'shines' (pun intended).;)

I think we (duffers and even professionals) mix several products sometimes that we may end up 'layering' from time to time. Heck I'll mix 105 and 101 (for 206) , or 105 and UC (for UC105). Both of these combos end up really helping the working time of 105, especially the latter. :)

I've done several others as well like say 151 and 205 (356) for an AIO with an awesome finish then top it with 156 (or some other spray sealant/wax) for a 'quickie' with great results thus far. Then call it a day! I've done D300 with a bit of D301 to see if it'd survive as an AIO, and it did! (At least for short term as an AIO generally does.)

There are more, some work, some don't, and some I can't tell.... but you get the drift. :rolleyes:

Honestly I use #7 (or any pure filler/glaze) so little these days that I haven't even thought about it. Sure the guy I mentioned, they are custom tailored for his needs. Because he just - doesn't - care about perfect paint. (At least not that he has to do himself.) He wants S-H-I-N-Y- period. Whatever makes it shine, makes him happy. His GT500 gets driven more than any of his cars but even that one is a garage queen, probably gets 5K a year tops. Yet he'll scratch all of his cars up putting on / pulling off the cover(s) as much as he will wiping them with some crappy - cheap - THIN - towels. (Microfiber or otherwise.) Honestly, it's just not something he cares about.

For instance, he bought an amazingly clean 68 Z28 early last fall. White w/orange rally stripes. The car already has a full rotisserie restoration and was painted probably 5~6 years ago. The car had been built as a "driver" but was a nut and bolt restoration, down to date correct hose clamps. Yet has had some miles put on it since then, several thousand for sure. Everything clear coated, paint looked really good all things considered. It had plenty of paint on it as well and was obviously not a cheap paint job when it was done. (I could have EASILY taken care of any issues, likely with nothing more than 205.)

But when he bought it, rather than have it buffed out to perfection, whaddya' think he did?

Sent it to be stripped and repainted!

He doesn't realize that you can actually "correct" paint. Nobody ever told him it was possible! He waxes them by hand, buffs with a bath towel or whatever he has on hand and that's the end of that. Once he gets where he doesn't like how they look, he paints them again! His body shop just RE-*paints* whatever he buys! :laughing:

Now THAT is a pigeon-hole. ;)