Applying/Buffing Carnuba with Flex XC 3401?

[wxchaser]

Couple questions please:

1) What's the best way to apply a hard carnuba wax to the foam pads (using Lake Country pads from 5.5" to 6.5" with different backing plates)

2) After wax is applied, what's the best way to buff it off with the Flex XC 3401? If I use a finishing pad, should I make sure it is damp first? I have tons of microfiber to hand buff, but as of now, I have no microfiber bonnets. Will the finishing pads do the job ok after wax is applied and dried, for buffing.

Thanks for any help.

[Flash Gordon]

Melt the product down

[wxchaser]

Melt the product down

What method are you suggesting?

[Flash Gordon]

What method are you suggesting?

I suggest you apply by hand ;)

[wxchaser]

I always have applied the carnuba by hand, after using a paint sealant.
As far as buffing it off with the Flex though - is there anything special I should do to prime the finishing pad?

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I would not use the Flex to remove the dried wax residue.

[tuscarora dave]

Melt the product down

:laughing: What are you thinking Flash? Heat Gun?, Blow Torch? :nomore:

Happy New Year!!!

[Flash Gordon]

I always have applied the carnuba by hand, after using a paint sealant.
As far as buffing it off with the Flex though - is there anything special I should do to prime the finishing pad?

You don't buff the product off the surface using a polisher. Get some quality cotton towels and wipe off the residue by hand

[Flash Gordon]

:laughing: What are you thinking Flash? Heat Gun?, Blow Torch? :nomore:

Happy New Year!!!

No, I just stare at it and it melts

:)

[GenesisCoupe]

I'd apply it by hand too.. I never applied a hard carnauba with my Flex..

[Tato]

You can do it. Use your wax applicator and apply the wax to a finishing pad. Some even say to get a 'plastic spoon or knife', and spread to the pad. DIY the best that suits you. If you're using small pads (3.5"/4"), you can get the wax from the can as you would with an 'ordinary' applicator (if 3.5" enters into the can).

Then you use the machine to spread the wax, and reapply wax when needed to the finishing pad, or apply the wax directly to the paint, then spread with the polisher.

Make 2 - 3 section passes, to guarantee a thin, even layer. You don't need high speeds (3-4 in my Meg's DA, maybe speed 2 on your Flex, but test which is better).

To Remove Wax By Machine you'll need Microfiber Bonnets. You can use them over a wool leveling pad, just like this kit recommends.

Dual Action Microfiber Bonnet Kit (http://www.autogeek.net/pc7424-bonnet.html)


Hope I've helped,

Kind Regards.

[Rsurfer]

Another vote for a hand job.

[Flash Gordon]

Another vote for a hand job.

That's what she said ...

[HateSwirls]

:iagree: totally:dblthumb2:

Some things you don't rush , waxing is one of them that I take my time.
Good even, light coat.


I suggest you apply by hand ;)

[Tato]

A machine application (if I can) followed by a hand touch up on details is 'my' way to go.

For removal I believe the hand method may do better as you closely inspect visually and 'tactile' your finished work. I like it. But you always can take advantage of machine + bonnet to reach higher areas on roof and make sure you've done a decent job buffing that spots... It's 'technology in service of mankind'.

The machine can achieve more perfect than your best hand circular movement for product application, IMO. And Faster. Control of pressure and speed of spread, arm movement... A LC gold flat pad for carnauba wax application is also a very interesting way of doing it - crazy soft and very durable, noble foam.

However you may wax by hand every time you wish, I just took OP question regarding Applying with Flex 3401...

Take above suggestions (@HateSwrils) seriously, and 'Don't Rush' (use the machine to improve, not (only) to speed up a fundamental step).

Kind Regards.