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Wicked ss
12-28-2013, 08:33 AM
Hello. I have never posted on a forum before so here goes. I just got back my 2010 camaro after a seven month wait for a complete color change. Way longer then I thought it would take but it's home now. Now the problem. The paint looks good as far as colors I picked out,the break in the two tone,etc. but the finish work is terrible. I guess my question is do I have to wait to correct this until after it cures which is about 90 days or do I try and correct it while its still soft? Thanks in advance for the advice and I look forward to all the good advice I know I will get from the awesome people on this forum. Happy holidays to all.

FUNX650
12-28-2013, 08:39 AM
:welcome: to AGO!!


What does the painter, (and his cut&buff crew if any), have to say
about your displeasure of the "finish work"?


Bob

miniSguy
12-28-2013, 08:57 AM
What does the painter, (and his cut&buff crew if any), have to say
about your displeasure of the "finish work"?


Bob

Good question.

vet
12-28-2013, 08:58 AM
Welcome! Since I don't have experience with fresh paint, I'll let the people who do give the advice.

asalesagent912
12-28-2013, 08:58 AM
one piece of advice i can give you is defenitly dont wax it.
the paint needs to cure. you can probably can use a polish but in my opinion be very careful
especially on plastic bumpers. my opinion is because the paint is just never the same as factory paint and could flake off on bumpers if using a machine buffer.

Just02896
12-28-2013, 08:59 AM
:welcome: to AGO!!


What does the painter, (and his cut&buff crew if any), have to say
about your displeasure of the "finish work"?


Bob

If they left buffer trailers and swirls without doing any actual damage to the paint from a virgin cure, then you "should be OK" to do a correction.

Bump for more seasoned vets to advise!

And I'm not seeing any pictures of the car! Lol! :-)

tuscarora dave
12-28-2013, 09:00 AM
What exactly about the finish work are you not pleased with? Is it dirt in the paint, excessive orange peel, really bad buffer marks, no gloss, all of the above?

Bob raises a great question. Have you expressed to the painter that you're displeased with their finish work? Did you pay them to do the finish work? Did they give you the option for them to go above and beyond with the finish work in the form of an elevated cost package or did they simply not discuss options with you?

I know it would be a real pain to wait even longer for them to address this issue but if they're capable and responsible to do so you should go in and discuss it with them.

I know this is the first time posting on a forum (and welcome to AGO by the way) but do you know how to post photos to a forum yet? Can you learn to do so? It would be irresponsible of any forum member to advise in a matter like this without knowing more and perhaps seeing a few photos of the displeasing paint condition.

My last thought would be where are you located? A lot of the qualified detailers here at AGO eat, sleep and breathe this kind of stuff. Maybe someone local to you might be willing to consult with you on what your options are upon seeing the car in person. There are a lot of helpful members here like that.

Happy New year!! I hope you get this sorted out to you benefit.

wrb_subie
12-28-2013, 09:08 AM
7 months and your unhappy? I'd take it back until it's to your liking.

Wicked ss
12-28-2013, 10:05 AM
Wow I didn't expect that many posts so quick. It's not that I'm not happy with the paint. The painter did a great job. It's all the finish work. They finished it in 2000 paper. From there it was a cut and buff. Just not sure I want to bring it back there . It's winter in NW Indiana.lots of salt on the roads. I have the tools to do it. I don't mind doing it. Just not sure if I should do it yet. What products would you more expert detailers recommend for this job as far as pads,polishes,etc. I have a rupes polisher as well as a dewalt and a flex. Can't wait for the new rupes mini to come out. Never hurts to have a good reason to shop at autogeek ,right. Thanks again for all the advice.will post pic as soon as I figure it out. Not as savy with the tech as most of you are yet.

FUNX650
12-28-2013, 10:18 AM
Wow I didn't expect that many posts so quick. It's not that I'm not happy with the paint. The painter did a great job. It's all the finish work. They finished it in 2000 paper. From there it was a cut and buff. Just not sure I want to bring it back there . It's winter in NW Indiana.lots of salt on the roads. I have the tools to do it. I don't mind doing it. Just not sure if I should do it yet. What products would you more expert detailers recommend for this job as far as pads,polishes,etc. I have a rupes polisher as well as a dewalt and a flex. Can't wait for the new rupes mini to come out. Never hurts to have a good reason to shop at autogeek ,right. Thanks again for all the advice.will post pic as soon as I figure it out. Not as savy with the tech as most of you are yet.
You do realize that once you "touch" the paint:
the Shop, the painter, and the "cut&buff-er"...
Are all now completely off the hook!!

Any displeasure with the "finish work" is yours...and only yours...from then on.

Bob

HateSwirls
12-28-2013, 10:22 AM
I don't see a problem by polishing the paint but I'd ask the guy who painted it first.
If you think about it they put a rotary on fresh paint so why can't we?
A DA would work fine with the right combo.

As with any car do a test area first, 2x2.
If it looks good then go with the product and pad that gives you the best results.

As one said do not wax or seal it, not for the first 90 days.

Years ago I had my entire Grand Prix repainted,as soon as I got it back I buffed it out due to buffer trails from the guy who painted my car.

Kevin Cullen
12-28-2013, 10:50 AM
As Hate Swirls says, talk to the painter and see if he did a thick clear coat and where he did not do clear coat. From there you can use a coating thickness gauge (if you have one) and get an idea of what you are working with. From there you can do as you please. I know you will void warranty if you touch it without talking to the shop that painted it BUT, as most of us here know, you probably won't be happy with the results if you take it back and get them to do the finishing work again.

Andr3wilson
12-28-2013, 10:56 AM
Was it baked? You can basically tell by how soft it is. Unbaked paint will be a mess at this point. Most shops bake their paint now (especially if it is a bigger operation).

You can polish it no problem. I would get some FG400 on an orange pad, then SF4500 on a white, then again on a black.

Be very gentle when buffing off with towel. You may need to buy a few new ones.

If it has been baked you can wax/coat/seal no problem. I have waxes and wrapped fresh paint without any negative effects or remote chance of failure.

Wicked ss
12-28-2013, 12:19 PM
Car was not baked. It was done in a cross draft spray booth. I think I might be better off waiting at least the 90 days and just let it cure. Thanks for all of you're input. Good to know that I'm not the only person out there who is a freak when it comes to their car looking perfect. Thanks to autogeek for giving us all a springboard to bounce ideas and advice to one another.

Andr3wilson
12-28-2013, 05:30 PM
Definitely wait. From the handful of cars I have polished with fresh unbaked paint. It take so much time technique and patience to master it (I still haven't). Make a spring project out of it!