Trouble correcting paint

[valleyrider]

I'm new to detailing and I have a few questions on polishing.

First, I started out with a GG6" polisher with both a CCS orange pad and an Optimum microfiber pad paired with either BF compound or Menzerna SI 1500 and found that it would require 2 applications using a 5-6 pass section pass each time in order to achieve the results I desired. I went out and purchased some M105 in order to achieve the results desired with less passes needed using the microfiber pad, it only took one 5-6 pass section pass to achieve the results needed.

Now this was on an 2006 Honda Ridgeline, come to this week and I am trying to correct my wife's 2012 Toyota Camry and its taking 2 5-6 pass section passes with M105 on the microfiber pad in order to remove the swirls in her paint and even then there are places where swirls decide they don't want to be removed. The car has been run through a swirl & shine wash once a week since new until recently when I decided to learn about detailing. I understand that DA polishers can only handle so much and a rotary has more power but does this sound about on par for compounding with a DA Polisher?

I placed an order for some Menzerna FG400 and some of the Meguiars extra cut microfiber disks in an effort to try to improve efficiency in the correction process.

When correcting I am using firm pressure to slow the pad down but ensuring that it is still rotating and with the speed set to 6. As far as I can tell I am priming the pad properly and I clean it on the fly after every set of section passes.

I'm not sure if this normal to experience with a DA polisher or if there is something wrong in my technique that is creating this scenario. From the posts I read it seems as if people are able to get better results with less aggressive products and fewer passes required to achieve said results.

I can get to some decent results it just takes a bit more time than I was anticipating. Here is a 50/50 of the Camry I am finishing up on.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/855/9trn.jpg

[cleanmycorolla]

Seems like a fine polish would cut down on some haze you're getting from those aggressive compounds. Plus those cars have soft paint.

Least aggressive method first!

[valleyrider]

Seems like a fine polish would cut down on some haze you're getting from those aggressive compounds. Plus those cars have soft paint.

Least aggressive method first!

I tried starting with BF finishing polish with a CCS white and an orange pad and it didnt appear to take away any swirls in the paint at all.

Its comments like yours that I read that make me think something is wrong in my technique or procedure since it seems I am having difficulty getting results in paint that is supposed to be soft.

[Kacz]

Consider playing with pad combinations as well. IMO you don't always need to couple an aggressive polish with an aggressive pad. (Especially on soft paints)

Adding to the point above sometimes SMAT polishes don't play well with soft paints; while they eliminate swirls, they add their own marring which then should be taken care of with a finishing DAT polish and finishing FOAM pad.

Another option is to knock the speed down.


When it comes down to it; it is usually a technique flaw. We've all been there...unfortunately.

I'm am surprised you didn't see any results after using BF on the orange/white pad.

*I have gotten good cutting results while using M105 on a glazing/waxing pad in the past.

[Flash Gordon]

Without wet sanding, some scour marks cannot be removed

[530inv]

I have microfiber pads but keep reverting back to foam pads. You can always try a yellow Lake Country Flat pad with your choice of compound.

Be sure you clean the pad after every pass, and I also go through 4 cut pads per car. I find that I can achieve a haze free finish while is damn near LSP ready with a heavy cut foam pad. Heavy on the pressure for the first 4 or so passes then lower the pressure for the final passes.

[KillaCam]

If the vehicle has been to the swirlomatic once a week for a long time I would say there's prob a lot of RIDS that cannot be removed safely. The lady who owned my car before me had to have used the same wash methods because some of them just would not come out and there's no point in taking off all the clear coat especially on a daily driver. I'm a perfectionist but sometimes you have to just live with it.
That 50/50 shot looks pretty good though.

[stilltipping3]

Your work looks great. The "TIME" part of the job is what it is..u have to know what your plan is to do the car and if want to save time then set up yourself with everything you need around you and no smoke breaks. LOL

[tdekany]

OP - I think you have unrealistic expectations. Every car is different. You can, but you shouldn't really compare yourself to others. The one suggestion I'd provide is for you to SLOW DOWN so you can correct faster. We as pro detailers sometimes spend 30-70 hours on a car just correcting, do you think you are slow? :props:

Slow down.

[Wes Bremec]

OP - I think you have unrealistic expectations. Every car is different. You can, but you shouldn't really compare yourself to others. The one suggestion I'd provide is for you to SLOW DOWN so you can correct faster. We as pro detailers sometimes spend 30-70 hours on a car just correcting, do you think you are slow? :props:

Slow down.

We'll said I have spent well over 30 hours on numerous cars

[valleyrider]

OP - I think you have unrealistic expectations. Every car is different. You can, but you shouldn't really compare yourself to others. The one suggestion I'd provide is for you to SLOW DOWN so you can correct faster. We as pro detailers sometimes spend 30-70 hours on a car just correcting, do you think you are slow? :props:

Slow down.

I went plenty slow while correcting, so I thought, I was just under the assumption that many people do corrections only needing a single set of section passes vs 2 sets of passes to get to an acceptable level while compounding but then again every car is different.

I finished up the car today, here are a few before and afters of it. I used BF finishing polish on a white pad and coated the car with PBL surface coating.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/823/9vz8.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/51/nshi.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/19/xpzx.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/32/rojh.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/823/v5yp.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/35/z2mt.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/823/s6ca.jpg

[KillaCam]

Looks good to me! Swirls are gone.

[cardaddy]

We'll said I have spent well over 30 hours on numerous cars

I hear that! :dblthumb2: Last one we did, spent 19 hours straight (plus almost 9 my wife had in it). :rolleyes: No interior work AT ALL, just washing, claying, taping, buffing and coating. She can do some buffing, but is awesome doing hand work like the tight stuff and the paint cleansing / Eraser / IPA/ paint cleaning polish type work. Man do I love still doing work like that with her, even after 36 years. ;)

OTOH, I know a guy that a few months ago was griping to me about spending 25 hours on a job that paid two grand! :dunno: One that I spent another 10 hours prepping, taping, and first round of compounding on, and only charged him $150.

We never know till we're deep in the poop sometimes. :)